flagmanruss

The banjo fittings are very restrictive... no point in installing big lines & leaving banjoes. I got all mine from Vulcan.

I replaced the fittings in/out & retained my stock canister, mainly to retain the Water In Fuel light function. I should never see any down stream from my AD150 but I dislike disabling things & leaving wires hanging.

Does it have Gas? Low on fuel? It sounds like a fuel restriction... like it uses up the fuel in the carb bowl, and can't refill fast enough so loss of power. Could be a clogged filter, restricted strainer at tank outlet, stuck float. Possibly contaminated fuel. Draw off a sample put in a (tightly capped) glass jar to settle overnight... I used to do this often in boats... (drain water separator into container)... prevented doing work that was not needed.

I bought my Bombadier used. It came with spare plugs... when you only have one cylinder, one plug, it must be a good spark plug. I had had it tuned & serviced in a Pro Shop... And they missed this. I couple of years later, I had it in a different shop... and they found it had the wrong spark plugs in it. But the plugs had the same brand & correct number. I couldn't believe it & insisted on the old plug back. What I learned is there are 2 versions of the plug with the same number. W H A T ? The knobby contact must be removed & the bare threads exposed. The coil slips down inside the tube in the valve cover, and there is only a small hole for the threads to slip into the coil. Sooo, in my case, the spark was having to jump to the coil as well as the spark plug gap. I do not know about your machine but this is how Bombardier did it. PS: I took the used plug, clamped in a vise & tried vise grips. The knob was NOT removable on THAT plug. I ordered more spares from a ATV shop on line & got the correct ones.

http://www.change.org/petitions/biomarin-pharmaceutical-give-andrea-sloan-andi-sloan-access-to-the-cancer-drug-that-could-save-her-life The FDA has approved her for compassionate use.

I had a very used 1983 Ford Ranger with a 2.2 Mazda (Perkins type) diesel. Natural air, no turbo. It was a total dog but got good mpg. My friends S10 easily drove away from me. This engine was only offered a couple of years. Never buy something that is "rare"... there's a reason! The manual transmission croaked & the repair failed. At the time, I didn't know the 2.2 was Mazda built. The case cracked & Aamco claimed they could not find another after their weld job didn't stand up. The 4 speed manual transmission had a different input shaft burt I later learned than a Mazda 5 speed could be swapped in by changing that input. By then my truck was gone.In 1985 A Mitsubishi-built 2.3 L turbodiesel with 86 hp replaced the Mazda diesel engine.I wonder if Chrysler's new owners have their head up where the sun don't shine. Italian engines??? We will see.

I only have single steps but that's about what mine look like.

I've had double width cast steps... "looks like the bully" but can't be sure. I've had them a long time. They are none too big & with my MS I wouldn't be able to get into the truck at all without them. As is I must set my feet just so, pull myself up to stand on the step outside the truck, then slide in. It's fine as far as it goes... unless it's raining or snowing! I'd like something bigger & lower... like lowered running boards.

I fill at about 50% on the fuel gauge if possible... I refill quart TCW3 containers about 3/4 full (squeeze into my door pockets). Ratio is 128:1. My VP44 survived a lift pump failure which I attribute to the TCW3. Truck runs quieter & gets marginally better mpg... about 1 mpg when I checked it. I figure the cost of the 2 cycle oil is offset by the mpg so it's a wash.

Very cool!

My truck has got the door rot. I'd not be too afraid of it. I believe it is repairable... but must be done right. You might want to take cash & have the repairs done yourself at somebody you trust (& will stand behind the repair.)

When I was in the marina business, folks were not so concerned with tiny amount of fuel spillage... but marine type vent was best installed higher than the fill plate (boat gas cap) or certainly with a hose loop up against the desk where the fill was mounted. So the nozzle tip would actually be below the fill. It was possible with a careless fuel jockey to fill excessively so the level was above the vent & small leakage would occur. If one was alert, one could hear the fuel backing up.What I'd do in a truck, is mount the vent up under the fender... higher than the fill... so fuel will come up the fill higher than the vent fitting.

The blend door is on the passengers side over the foot well, electric controlled... that's the WRONG one. The one you want is over the hump, vacuum controlled, next to the driver's foot. Sometimes you cam flip it by hand but like has been said if the vacuum is cut off, it goes to the default DEFROST setting. My control is frogged up & I'm putting it off because to work on the control or door requires moving the dash back. I had a nephew with long arm move mine & it stayed until I started the truck again. Now I suppose it is possible, though rare, that the in dash selector could go bad (accessed by removing the dash trim) but I really doubt that'll solve it.

OK, so that tank vent that ties to the neck. But if that fill vent was T'd to the atmosphere, it would serve as a vent for tank withdrawal.

Drying / sealing headlight assembly: http://vehicle-maintenance.wonderhowto.com/how-to/prevent-remove-condensation-inside-headlights-166345/ Nothing wrong with forced air drying like the video but on a dry day, it might only require bulb removal & a shop vac. Before I removed the headlight assembly, I think I'd take the chance of re-sealing all available seals. Sheila's Subaru the OEM bulbs lasted for years... yet the replacements had about 6 month bulb life on the H1 bulbs it took. Local auto parts just kept selling me bulbs... the same crappy bulbs... I found there ARE long light H1s made & ordered through NAPA... ALTROM ATR64150. I ordered a few but I didn't really get to test the longevity because the head gasket job failed & the shop would not stand behind their work... CPM Auto in Coventry, RI... claimed a cracked head. WELL, she gave the car to her sister whose BF runs a machine shop... trailered the car to Maine. Arse H*le shop hadn't planed the heads. Sister has driven the back several times over the last 2 years. I'd look at what bulbs you buy & buy a brand name with a life expectancy rating. Seems to me that bulbs are sold only by price. Some of the "bright' bulbs have much less life expectancy which I factor in.

My fill has a line which enters within sight of the cap. I wonder if that is a vent & if so could that be T'd to another vent like a marine vent. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PERKO-MARINE-561-BOAT-FUEL-TANK-VENT-W-SPLASH-GUARD-SWIVEL-ELBOW-561-DP4-CHR-/271257225054

There's some one here... sorry I forget who... is running a marine fuel tank vent according to his signature. A marine tank vent is just a rubber hose to a screened through hull fitting. The vent is ideally located as high as the top of the fill pipe so the nozzle will shut off before pushing fuel (spill) out the vent. It would need an elbow in the top of the tank to connect to. I think modern vehicles have a roll over valve installed. I don't see why suck a vent couldn't be installed in the fill pipe near the cap (inside the filler door area).

I learned that my Bombardier 650 ATV has one... wife used a rope to keep tension on a tree we were cutting down as we'd previously done with other vehicles... it blew the belt. The ATV has a bolt that was a SOB to get out (underneath, one tooth at a time with a custom wrench through a hole in the skid plate) on the cover, but replacing the belt was simple after that. But for a constant variable transmission, matching power to speed makes a whole lot of sense.... at least in light duty vehicles. Personally, I think the great opportunity for mpg gains will be in the transmissions... and we are already seeing the trend to more transmission speeds. I remember a certain 59 Ford that only had a 2 speed transmission!

So your headlight assembly is basically stock Halogens. What you want is to run a bigger feed wire to the bulbs, controlled by a relay because the OEM headlight wiring through the switch is too small. The OEM wiring becomes the relay trigger circuit. There should be a diagram of this somewhere.

That really SUCKED! Undoubtedly somebody came along & bought it out from under you. They guy should have called you but somepeoble are just slime. Maybe you lucked out with a better setup after all. Hope so.

Bad connection... bad grounds?? damaged fuse block? First place I'd start is to clean the battery connections.

The HIDs have not only a different bulb composition but also filament placement. The filament, lens, reflector relationship is critical to beam control. Now there are those who have jimmied other bulb types into place... and maybe from the driver's viewpoint, they have improved lighting by sheer volume of light. I sincerely hope to not meet them coming the other way... I hate being blinded by their light scatter. My only experience is with off-road non-sealed beam halogens many years ago, but the system components were made for each other... and I found a brick wall to aim the beams on (by covering one light at a time).

I believe the non-sport headlights have a high/low bulb. However some people do indeed install a relays in the manner of a "Bright Box", but with just the single blub. The Sport has a built in socket for an additional bulb. A shame they didn't use the sport housing for all & make the conversion easy...You haven't filled in the signature so I don't know what year your truck is. My 01.5, the stock lights are pretty good but with my low mileage the lens have not oxidized much. My 97 Cirrus is seriously clouded

It's possible for a caliper to drag, either intermittently or even constantly. I had both front seize & the truck drove normally except for lousy mpg. Even went through state inspection (at a dealership, no less) with it. A year later a real mechanic jacked the front to check the ball joints & found he couldn't force the wheels to turn. The interesting thing was the pads weren't dragging but rust beyond the swept area.

I felt the 2 stoke oil additive was good for about 1 mpg in my truck.