flagmanruss

If the ramp & traffic permits, I'll try to be going the speed limit when I merge. I don't find a few seconds of acceration hurts fuel econemy ... rather the transission shifts up sooner, & getting into high saves gas. Rarely, I don't get an opening & have to extend my roll into the break down lane. No Big Deal. I hate people who can merge at proper speed but fail to accelerate forcing traffic to brake. That's not merging... that's ignorant, cutting people off!

I had front end work done recently... my truck & the Cirrus, inspected everything. I followed the shops advise, only replaced what was out of spec. I asked them to let me know if there was any question but there was not. I'm very happy with both shops. Would have been nicer if it was free... but the jobs are DONE!

My truck was stock when the OEM steel system rusted out. I bought SS to stop from replacing it again. The OEM is 3" (in 01, my year) but smaller out of the muffler. 3" full length is an upgrade. The smallest SS was 4" full length with a straight through "muffler". It was too loud towing (as was my old built 454, headers & glass packs.) I added a FTE spiral resonator which quieted it down a lot. I did not see any MPG improvement. If I was going to do it again... skip the straight through muffler to save the cost... install the resonator as forward as possible.

My used OEM mirror control arrived from the ebay seller. Under $20 delivered. It looks like new. The thing that has me scratching my head is how does it install? The knob side is much bigger than the switcgh body. I don't see that the knob comes off. There is a lock ring between the body & the knob. What am I missing? I looked under the Father's Day Tree & no mirror boxes... just a couple of T shirts! I may have to buy my own present. Passed a Dad at the Home Store... buying his self a 2 grand rider... said he wanted to be sure to get the one he wanted! LOL!!

I actually had to force a merge last night... I turned down a ramp then discovered the DOT was doing night paving and had the traffic on I95 merged into the breakdown lane, which was bumper to bumper at about 20 mph. I had my 16' landscaper's trailer on with my mobility scooter strapped down & after doing a flag day event in Bristol RI... (The kick off to the run up to their First in the Nation 4th of July Parade, widely televised.) We'd pulled off to finially get dinner at 9PM... I pulled in close with my blinkers on... I let a couple go by and then a trucker let me in. I thank him.The wildest one, I went with a horse trader to the auction... he had a 6 horse head to head goose pulled by a Cenurion Custom Tow vehicle built on a Ford chaisis... big gasser was the way to go back then. There was one place in Hartford, Ct one had to merge from the Left & immediately Exit accross 4 lanes on the Right. The highway design was ancient... not suitable for the traffic levels at that time (and has since been replaced... I wonder why?). He merged with his blinker on, counted to 3 & turned the wheel. OMG!! The tail was barely clear of the on ramp when the cab entered the off ramp. I heard screaching tires but no one hit us... I never rode with him again. He said there was no other way to do it but I was afraid for my heart!

http://performancechipsnow.com/Chrysler%20Performance%20Chips/Chrysler%20Cirrus%201995-2000 Hi Russell, With our chip you should see a 2-4mpg increase with a HP increase of approximately 10%. Our chip sends a signal through the Air Intake sensor to change the air/fuel ratio. Here are the step-by-step instructions; we can provide manufacturer's diagrams upon request. 1. Disconnect the battery 2. Take one identified IAT wire and put the wire tap over the wire on the side that allows the wire to go all the way through. (nothing is removed, cut or disconnected - open the wire tap a bit so the wire fits inside) 3. Take one black module wire (either one) and put it through the other end of the wiretap. 4. Once both wires are in the wiretap, you use pliers to clamp down on the metal tab to create the splice. 5. Repeat the same steps with the 2nd IAT wire and the 2nd black module wire. 6. Secure the module using the zip ties provided 7. Keep the battery disconnected for 2 hours 8. Reconnect the battery and GO! Let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you..PCN On 2012-06-13 16:13, russell wrote: > I am interested in a chip for better fuel mileage for my daily > driver, a 97 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6 At 61 years old, I do more > GrandPa driving but I don't object to a bit more power since I have > control of the GO pedal. There are times when one must power out of > trouble. > > I would like a link to the install instructions. From what I am > reading, I gatherthat your chip uses a fooler type program to adjust > the ECM. What parameters does it adjust? > > Russell *** *** *** *** *** *** And this one: http://www.performancechipsdirect.com/

I think the IAT foolers are being over hyped (and way too expensive for what they are). Deceptive & I suspect a lot of unhappy customers. I think there must be some sort of chip that really does work... may be more than I can afford.

EDIT: I HAVE found 1 verticle "stud" I suppose in the middle of the wall section. No where near where the grab bar mounts. I suggested to the dear wife, that I just screw to the wall & pray I never need it. She said "No Way!" OK, after dinner, we go out to the camper to inspect (when I located the stud). I suggested removing the tub surround as it would conceal butchering the wall. She says "No Way!" She suggests bolting through the wall again & I remind her the (SS #6 x 3.25") machine screws were $4 each... and iffy if they would reach. She threw up her hands & said screw it (to the wall, I think she meant).

I managed to separate the tub splash... but just a finished wall, smiling back at me. I drew a line from the bottom of the medicine cabinette around to the tub, leveled it & screwed the bar into the shower. Just the first 2 upper screws to hold it in place. When I pull on it, I can see the whole wall flex. I'm really inclined to just screw it in, fix it if it ever strips out. I know 6 screws into paneling... but 2 screws are stronger than the panel. The way to fix it might be to remove the tub surround, open the wall behind it & reinforce it. Reinstall the tub surround, covering the violence.A "quick & dirty" might be to spray foam into the wall through the screw holes & see if it sticks to the back of the panel enough to stiffen it. I have no idea if it would work. The nozzle won't go through the #6 screw hole, I'm sure.

This is probably a dumb idea... but I'm toying with the idea of a MPG chip (never complain of few extra horses but most of driving is GrandPa driving, but even grandpa needs to accelerate to merge sometimes). The Cirris is no pup... but I think it's mechanically sound. It's my daily driver and better MPG would be real nice. Simple wiring or plug & play wanted.I see some add ons that appear to be IAT Foolers. Anything else I should look at?

I used to find, Marine Engines with stainless exhaust manifold studs (Marine Exhausts are water jacketed). If a replacement manifold was required, I always salvaged these studs. Sometimes, they had steel nuts on the SS studs. The old school German mechanics who assembled our Acme Marine Hoist (really, that was the brand) used unpainted huge plain steel bolts to assemble the sections. I questioned them on it. They said Poor man's lock tite! There's nothing tighter than a rusted bolt. If ever disassembled, the bolts would be torched off & replaced anyway! They were all exposed flanges, so it made sense.

We have learned the hard way. After service, open the hood & look around. Be sure caps are on, oil in engine, etc. Then start it & look underneath. I once picked up the Dodge from the dealership, went up the street & hit the highway for home. I hadn't gotten a half mile (was only going 55mph) when the hood blew up, straight up. Luckily I was able to get it off the road. Dealer lied through their teeth, claimed it was a sticky cable... but when their guy came out we were able to force the hood closed AND IT LATCHED PROPERLY to drive it back to the dealer. 2 more days in the stealership & it came back with new hood hinges... and they did not fix what I took it in for!!

Yes, that's it... the sofas & rear bed, were gone before we got it. There's a shallow cabinette behind the toilet that I opened up & added shelves/doors. I'm working on the tub side of the partition, backs up to the sink area as pictured. I have to go below the medicine cabinett.

I can't imagine loaning an RV... I hate to even have my wife drive my truck, but I kind of have to. If I screw something up, than it's my fault... but I hate when others screw something up on MY vehicles. And I generally don't drive theirs!

They never clearly mark / explain what each control does. Not like my 97 Cirrus which has an extra knob (recirc / outside)... that I can freakin understand! In the newer vehicles, I guess we're just suppost to know for max cooling, one must recirulate air.

That is a really slick set up. You're gonna like working out of it.I did the walk in box on a company truck some years ago... I lined the body with 1/4" on the walls. I built a bench down one side. All my drill press, vise & such were C clamped so I could move them as needed (and they belonged to me). I wired outlets under the bench so tools on the lower shelf could be out of the way & stay plugged in during work sessions. The other side was a bin system I salvaged out of another company van. I was doing installs of Marine Electronics out of it. I didn't have my own AC power... But I could run a cord to a power pole on most sites easily.

This was my mis-assumption too. Maybe I'd better check again. Thanks!!

2001 28' Thor TranSport

I found some 3.25" SS machine screws for almost $4 each, with 10 required! Sheila rejected that plan.I can't believe that Sheila suggested cutting a hole in the partition to install a block of wood as a backer board. I had rejected that idea as too destructive. Oh, wait, she expects me to make the hole pretty! I can just see working a board into the partition & then DROPPING IT! I'm thinking, drill through (long drill) the partition to mark the area. Work a block of wood in & screw bar in place. Cut an over sized trim board to overlap the edges of the hole, screw in place. Back to the trailer to measure...

Vacume pump is on the drivers side, backed up to the power steering... I think on mine, the vacume line went back to the firewall then across above the engine with the harness on the cowel edge before going through the firewall. Some Ts & connectors... Lots of places a tube could crack or a coupler slip off or get dry rot.

A couple of years ago, I had the "pleasure" of 2 hospital stays of 4 & 3 days respectively to deal with a serious infection which took off because of the immune blocking drug I was taking. The first hospital was an ugly room with a great view, the second hospital was a nicer room with a view of a brick wall. The nurses were very kind... considering the location of the infection, I was not much concerned with their attractiveness. (Caths S*CK!) I'm very glad you are out & hope you heal quickly.Russ

The first bar is verticle on the partition against the edge of the shower splash & caught the framing of the partition on the edge but the other 2 are just in the paneling. I was hoping to bolt though & just put big fender washers on the other 2 on each verticle base.On the horitontal bar, I can find no framing. I figured to install bar #2 horizontal, cutting the bar to length to miss the ridges in the splash. My original idea was to bolt through and put a hardwood block on the sink side to spread the load across the whole partition. I took my dial caliper to the partion. The countersink in the base takes .165" The net thinkness of the partition is ~2.77"... with no allowance for the shower splash which I have NOT got a measure on. So I am darn near 3" with no allowance for a board or the nut. Reccessed nuts have entered my mind... I don't have any at hand... maybe I could find / hand make such nuts. I'd rather not make a big project out of simple nuts.

Sorry, Forgot to mention the shower wall has some ridges in it. I've found some on-line sources of bolts to 3". I'm going out with a dial caliper & a pad to do the math... to see it I can make it work. Too freaking close to call.

OK,I have one bar "mostly" installed but only 1 screw of each mount hit solid wood. We all know camper paneling is tissue thin... The second grab bar/towel bar is to go inside the shower unit, one layer of thin plastic over the same partition. The partition measures 3" thick or a tad less subtracting for the corner trim. I thought I'd just bolt on through, backing block & acorn nuts on the other side... but the grab bar base is countersunk for tiny (but long) screws #6 I think. I'm sure in a house, wall anchors would be used.The hardware stores seem to stop at 2" lengths... I was hoping for 3 1/2 to 4". I'm not finding them on line either. I know I could carve a big ___ hole in the partition & install a solid plank to screw to... but after 6 months of mouse combat & the resulting destruction/reconstruction, I'm not sure she'd speak to me again.So, I know there are lots of smart guys here... IDEAS Gentlemen?Thx, Russ

Thanks guys,With my recent trip, had to flip the manual tow mirrors out, have Sheila adjust them... and reverse when we got back. Despite the 2 thumbs & squeeze adjustment techique, (to spread the pressure) the drivers side mirror is delaminating. Someday it will pop out & fall on the ground. Power mirrors would be so much better. I honestly have never liked the OEM tow mirrors... but have never found anything I liked better...I went to ebay & found a seller offering a control for my exact year truck... My first time looking. What luck! Under 20 bucks with shipping & it's coming my way! Maybe I'll find a couple of Cool Views under the tree on Father's Day!!!ADDITION: Been shopping ebay & finding what seems to be best price from AM Auto... NIB, 93.55 w/ free shipping No Brand specified... Good / Bad Reports?