flagmanruss

What crawled up her @rse?

I understood that your problem was different. The removal, reindexing of the gears & reinstallation is the same. The unmarked motor getting accidentally mis-orentated inside the case is easy to do. While the unit is out, checking the coupler is just a smart thing to do. Glad it worked out for you & thanks for sharing.

I am thinking of picking up an OBDII code reader. Right now I need to reset codes in the Cirrus. The prices are all over... from $20 to several hundred. I am very budget minded but buying junk is a bad investment too. I do not plan to leave it on one vehicle (though that might change)... but we have 01 Dodge/CTD, 97 Chrysler Cirrus, 02 Subaru right now.Have any of you guys tried the less costly units & your opinions & experiences good & bad.Many Thanks!!

The blend door motor is generally a PITA to get down (in the passengers foot well. I had to fold back the run & carve a chunk out of the think rubber mat. It's not anywhere your feet go, so no problem. Most often the failure is the fragile little plastic connector. One must reorientate the drive (mark the motor as it IS reversible but will not operate correctly.) If one wipes off the grease on the gears, you can find a molding mark on the bottom gear, set it to the edge of the gear above & reassemble. In the next cycles, the electronics learn the range of travel. A SS connector is available from www.heatertreater.net I have had some luck with machining a snug collar to press onto plastic parts that crack... after glueing, the collar is pressed on & prevents the plastic from spreading so the part contues to function IF there is room for the collar. A previous thread on this topic: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/943-Blend-door-fix-and-pointers.?highlight=treater+heater

The Quadzilla switch is part of the XZT+ harness. I routed it up behind the knee panel & drilled a convemient hole. I drilled a hole next to it for the IAT Fooler (Intake Air Tempature Fooler). Here's a long thread to Mike's IAT Fooler thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3231-MPG-fooler-Design-phase I still have my single value resistor... I'll get back to the rotary switch with various experimental resistor values. There is a diagram. Basically one takes an extension harness (available from Casper's Electronics http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1503 ) My IAT extension marked Caspers Electronics #109017 "MAT Air Temp Senser Extension". I cut it to extend into the cab and add a switch so one can go from the OEM sensor (variable resistor) to a fixed resistor, equivelent to a warmer air temp. The ECM adjusts the fuel setting accordingly. Russ

Yes, Nick was a race bred Quarter Horse with Lots of Hot TB in him. I have traced a lot of his bloodlines back.I run the Quadzilla XZT+ chip. Also I made up... followed the directs here... a IAT (Intake Air Temperature) fooler. The idea of the IAT fooler is that the Cummins runs richer when the intake air is cold. So in cooler weather it trick the engine into running leaner, picks up about 1 mpg for me in cooler weather. In summer or if the underhood temps are hot, I shut it off. These are still being researched as to what the ideal IAT fooler setting is.

Dave,Good looking horse. If the horse is wormed & all, then I would not worry about "100 lb". Thoughbreds are high energy, generally like to eat. Nick was a race bred quarter horse with lots of hot TB in his blood.Quarter horses are a cross between Spanish barbs of the Conquistadors & English Thourghbreds... Early American colonies received most of their horses indirectly from the Spanish & continued after the American Revolution. Denhardt 133Quarter Horse is oldest type in US. In colonial days it was called the short horse (or 1/4 mile horse) because it was bred for racing short distances, usually the Main Street of the town. Stud books from 1832 lists blood lines into Colonial days and famous modern quarter horse families can be traced back. Denhardt 178-183The quarter horse has never been a pure blood line for short horses crossed only among themselves, tended to be short on running ability. For this reason it has been the practice to cross other blood into it. Several breeds have been tried but the best results have been with Thoroughbred blood and is now standard practice. Denhardt 182Since Colonial times smuggling Spanish horses was frequently practiced. Patrick Henry, the famous Virginia gentleman & Patriot, gave specific orders to a friend detailing the saddle animal he wanted brought back for his personal use from the Pawnee country across the Mississippi. "best & most pure Spanish breed" Daniel Boone was not above crossing the river for Spanish horses. Philip Nolan led one group of adventurers after another into Spanish territory, even mocking the Spanish authority. Nolan went to San Antonio in 1795 and returned to Natchez with 250 horses. Later he drove 1000 head from San Antonio. He was killed March 22, 1801 when his party was attacked by the Spanish. Denhardt 226 As time went on there are numerous accounts of others in this lucrative business.These actions demonstrated the ease that Spanish Louisiana and Texas could be penetrated. Denhardt 133 famous Amiricans as Dan'l Boon & Partick Henry trafficed in Spanish horses. The most notorious was Phillip Nolan... the Spanish put a price on his head. They were put off by the mountain men's long rifles more than once but eventually charged the American camp at dawn & shot him down. Source: the Horse of the America's by Robert Moorman Denhardt @ Norman:University of Oklahoma Press 1947What kind of saddle do you have? Girth length? I might have something. Russ

The C30, camper special, built 454, etc My Scamper Camper home The GMC 1/2 ton, 305, heavy as a brick outhouse Moritz stock trailer... not enough truck! The 80 Challenger Somebody had stripped the lash adjustment out of the steering box so you needed 3 lanes to drive it. The parts were not available new... but with enough patience, a used one might have been found, or the cover removed welded & re-threaded. Bet she drive that off the road too. (drunk) Nick & me in rendezvous camp He was a special horse... riding out of camp at dawn I was heart-broken when I lost Nick a couple of years ago. He was 28. (I got him green broke as a 4 year old.)

I think my Cirrus is OBD1. It has the "count light blink" system, then match up the 2 digit codes. I understand 97 was a transition year.

Yeah! That would be a real kick in the teeth! --- Update to the previous post... OK, How do I reset the CEL on a 97 Cirrus?

I have also found the intake non-important in basically stock intercooled turbo diesel truck. I ran mpg comparisons with stock & drop in K&N... and no filter at all... no differences. I think folks are fooled because of old beliefs from gas engines.

I think on a basically stock truck, 5" is over kill and much tighter to install. I have the smaller outlet turbo (auto trans) & went with 4" full length. Just going to a full length kit is an upgrade as the OEM reduces beyond the muffler. I bought a SS kit off ebay. The muffler is just a straight through tube. I think a resonator or cat will quiet it down a bunch. I have not got the swirl resonator in yet. It's fine as it running light but the drone is pretty HD towing. I'm running a Quadzilla XZT+ in the econo mode, getting better pep empty & slightly better mpg. I'm also running a Intake Air Temp Fooler... in cold weather.

The "Fram" BHAF I bought was made for Fram by Donaldson and so maked inside the package...

A boat yard customer of mine had the Jag V12... it spent as much time in the shop as it did on the road. He dumped it after a year. I have not kept up with recent cars... and my physical abilities are so radically changed now... The only cars that come to mind are classics...

I have not got the outter fender off yet... but my thinking is to find a plastic object that I can sacrific to get the needed material all shaped. I have my eye on a masons cement mixing trough... I think the repair needs to overlap, be caulked & screwed or pop-rivited to what remains of the original wheel well liner.

Sorry about the focus. The adaptor only had a shoulder on the side to tighten it... to the right in the photo... so I cut a shoulder on the opposite side of the notch (brass color to the left) for the spanner so the fitting could be removed... repeated in all the notches. It's a brass part, cut easily with the cutter shown in the dremel. You can see just a hint of the red lock-tight on the threads.

Internet research of the codes indicated the Evap control unit had failed which was the reason for the CEL. I bought the part at the auto store & ensued the process to get the hood open with the broken release cable. See that story: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4516-Cirrus-hood-release-broke... AFTER getting the hood open, I proceeded to do the part replacement. To get to it, the intake duct needed to be removed and the cruise control freed up & I was able to wedge it on the other side of the trans dip stick. The bracket bolts to the shock tower with 1 bolt... but boy what a "son-of-a-female-dog" to get to. At the top of the frame is one of the studs from the Cruise Control which gouged the crap out of my arm before I fould a piece of vacume tubing to cover them with. That's the little jem under the brake lines. The unit has a rubber block which slips onto a part of the bracket (slot indicated in the photo) but I could not get them appart down in the hole. The bracket just twists on the single bolt. I removed the bracket pushed the unit onto the bracket, pushed the 2 hoses (single block so hard to confuse them) back on & reinstalled the bracket. I didn't connect the wire plug... It came off easy enough & gave room needed to work the mounting bolt. The dang plug would not go on. I tried every which way... came back today & got it on. Different angle, different position. Put the rest of the parts back that I'd removed to get access... Put the hood down, time for a break. This has been a real challenge with a sore back.

A lot of tips in that CF thread. Read all the way down for the correct Radio Shack part numbers.

See I ended up with (2) full old-style propane tanks... meanwhile everything we use has been replaced with more recent style connectors. In the past I did not worry as I recycled an old style regulator & fitting onto the newer appliance. I figured I'd use them up on the gas grill. Well, the folks that make them changed that fitting to a crimp on... Sooo, long story short, I have (2) full 30's off my old camper which I could not use the propane.I finally located the correct adaptor fitting & ordered one. So when it came it had RED LOCKTITE on the threads and the spanner wrench to install it... the notches in the adaptor body were install only. I am sick of being forced to do things their way! I don't want to permanently convert these tanks (buy 2 adaptors). I want to use the propane I paid for & retire the tanks (since I am out of the horse business, I no longer use the skeeter vacs, use much less propane). I just used a tooth brush & laquor thinner to remove the locktite. I put the adaptor in a vise & used a little dremel cutter to make the spanner notches work in both directions. Yes, I'll have to check both sides of the connection when I change tanks... I think I can handle that!

I have been busy with other projects so have not attempted a permant repair to the camper inner fender... but there is no mouse sign since I packed the damaged area with steel wool. Seems like this is the last entrance. Now how to repair... Not sure what it'll look like when I get the outter fender removed.

Makes sense to have a harness connector forward for a slide in camper... Since I already have the trailer plug under the bumper, I guess I don't need a harness connector there. I just didn't look far enough forward when I was wiring for the gooseneck. When I was about to install my gooseneck hitch, I looked under a buddy's bed since he had his gooseneck wiring "professionally installed" by the dealer (I bet they dropped 40k into the slant load gooseneck with living quarters). The crap splices were all turning green... The T connectors are really slick as far as they go. The one for my Chevy lacked a ground and brake wires but I ran them separately anyway. Actually had duplicate wiring on a 83 GMC 1/2 ton I towed with before I got the C30. My ex got that truck in the divorce... I had to leave the flex fan & bumper with Reese socket welded on... unplugged the wiring harness just as slick as could be along with the rest of the trailering equipment that I installed. (The only thing we had going was trucking the horses out to the management area to ride... you throw away one (me), you throw away the other. By the time the divorce was final, I was living in a camper abutting the management area with my horse... and the bar fly had totalled the 1/2 ton probably driving drunk.)When I got my Japaneese 80 Challenger back from the ex, the steering box had been tampered with, parts not available. I should have tried harder, that was a nice car.

Seems pretty unbelieveable that the whole overhead would have to be replaced for a tiny light switch. I sure don't want to take mine down but there are a few screws in some of the compartments up there. I'd feel better practicing on/exploring a junkyard piece. That's what I'd do.Now the rest of the electronics up there is a different matter.Let us know how you make out. Take pictures!

A discharged battery that freezes is junk... I used to sell batteries at the boat yard. If a battery has been drawn down totally flat, trickling (1-2 amp) it might bring it back... but I'm not sure I'd trust it after. I might switch it to a non-essencial service like a camper battery or such.

When I was a kid... the school busses had vacume wipers. They'd slow or stop when picking up speed.

My Chevy had a plug in the wiring harness behind the bumper... Unplug it, plug in the T... connect T to your camper. In my case I used the T to connect to my trailer socket under the bumper. It was very nice as it left the OEM wiring unmutilated. I looked under my 01 and could not find one on my Dodge. Maybe different as mine Dodge has the camper special package.