diesel4life

High of 68*F yesterday and a whopping 61*F today. I'd be loving the weather if it wasn't for the 3.5" of rain we got in 24 hours yesterday. We've had rain several days each week for the past few weeks and our water table is FULL. Earlier in the week around Wednesday or Thursday we got hit with more than 2" and yesterday was the breaking point for a lot of people. Roads are flooded over, fields are under water, and basements are flooding including ours yesterday for the first time since we've been here. Crazy weather for sure.

Exactly. I dont think the VP is the culprit here especially since the problem showed up when the injectors were installed. There are different manufacturing processes for injectors, and some are more precise and consequently cleaner than others.

I really like the picture of your truck in between the sign! Yellowstone and the Tetons are some of the most beautiful country the US has to offer and something everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime. We were there the year before it burned down, my step father was up there a few years after on a snowmobiling trip and said the parts that burned werent even recognizable. We are headed to Wyoming this summer to visit family and Yellowstone is at the top of the list. It will be a first for my wife and the boys.

The thing that keeps hanging me up is how clean the truck ran PRIOR to installing your injectors. I have no experience with DDP and I'm not saying they're a bad injector but not all injectors are created equal. One manufacturers 75HP injectors may smoke like a freight train while another's 90HP injectors will run clean. An EGT gauge would help with the diagnosing. I definitely wouldnt be towing heavy without one. Maybe you could post up a short video of your engine under load so we can all get a better idea of just how smokey things are.

http://www.whatispc-11.com/new-api-oil-standard-may-ready-2017 "One of the concerns with any new oil category is its backwards compatibility. Arcy says it is too early to tell whether the low-viscosity version of PC-11 will be backwards compatible and added that we are as much as a year away from being able to discern that." Direct quote taken from the last paragraph of the link above.

If one doesn't feel safe traveling the posted speed limit (or at least within 5-10mph) then the best and safest option is simply choose another route. Ive seen enough rear end accidents on the local freeway here to firmly believe that. If your traveling 15mph under the posted limit and the rest of the world is realistically doing 10-20 over, its a recipe for disaster. Only a matter of time before someone not paying attention happens along. There have been instances where my load dictated that 70mph was not practical so I stayed off the freeway and stuck to the 2 lane highways. It takes a little longer but I'll take going with the general flow of traffic over driving out of my rear view mirror any day.

It would be awfully hard to keep under 20 psi under certain conditions, I.E. steep grades towing at freeway speeds. I don't drag race to the top by any means, but I've always felt its safer to keep with the general flow of traffic then slowing down to the point of possibly creating a hazard. How do you like towing with your new injector/turbo combo? Im sitting on the same set up, just haven't had the time to tear the truck down and do the swap. Im hoping in the next few weeks to get it done.

Very nice! There is ALOT of updated info on that home page from the last time I was on there. Good on them for giving credit where credit is due.

It will be interesting to see how this all ays out. As of the latest info at http://www.whatispc-11.com/ there will be 2 types of oil, one for current and future engines built specifically for 30w oil and another spec similar to CJ4 for engines that call for heavier viscosity. Even the website I linked recommends "always following your manufacturers recommended viscosity." Many new engines including the DD in the above video and select Cummins engines are currently coming from the factory with 30w oil.

Yes please post them up. I dont see them anywhere. Also, are you sure your talking to Chip? Chip has been retired for some time now and turned the business over to Doug, although it is possible he's still involved.

15 mph in reverse? What in the world were they doing?

The only way to get better pricing is to become a member, but then there is the membership fee that has to be figured into the overall cost. If one was to buy 2 or 3 filters the membership may be worth it, otherwise probably not if that is the only thing you plan on buying.

To make a long story short,no. The FS2500 is the only other system out there that I am aware of that filters down to the 2-3 micron range but it is more than the Amsoil kit.

LOL, I can relate to that but in this corner of the market Amsoil is really the only spin on filter with stellar efficiency ratings. Others will work just not as well. Its the one product I'll buy from them.

Yes they are very expensive filters. The plus side is you can virtually run them until they plug up before changing them out, as they are not a full flow filter. Maybe some othr members can comment on how long their EABP filters have lasted but I'm guessing if you change your oil at the recommended intervals along with the full flow filter the bypass filter will probably last 40-50k miles. That's speculation, Im sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. The Donaldson ELF 7349 (there is a new part number for this, but I still have the old filters and do not remember the updated number off the top of my head) efficiency is 98% @15um, so while the NAPA bypass filter will help some its not much of an improvement over a good full flow filter. I imagine you will still have $100+ into making your own bypass system up, at least I did (not including a filter.) Most of my expense was in hose and fittings, I did not want to cheap out on that part and risk blowing a hose going down the road. The oil pressure prior to the filter is what ever the engine is pushing out which can be quite high on a cold engine. Also, UOA really is not necessary at all if your servicing at the OEM recommendation. You can simply continue on as normal and change whichever spin on bypass filter you are using when the flow becomes compromised.

You say early 07 so I assume its a 5.9? There were some teething issues with the early VGT's and the programming involved with the DPF so I'd be a little hesitant to buy an early 6.7. Even if it is a 5.9, your buying more miles and its going to cost you 5 grand to do it. There's always the unknown of buying used, you often do not know the full history of the truck so that is a gamble. How it was used, how it was maintained, what it may need in the future. On the other hand you know the history of your truck and know what it needs. If and when the auto gives up the ghost you can put a manual in your truck for the extra price of the truck your looking at.

I really like the looks of the Smarty Touch. Smarty keeps teasing us 2nd gen guys with something bigger and better (similar to UDC). If and when that day comes I'll be cashing in my S03 for a new unit.

The problem is neither of those filters are anywhere as capable as the EABP filters from Amsoil. The Napa filter you posted is rated at 10 micron nominal which isnt much better than a good full flow filter. I found the specs on that Baldwin when I was looking and it is better than the Napa but again not as efficient as the EABP filters. Believe me, I searched quite extensively for an alternative before resorting to the EABP filter. In the end I wanted the best filter available, and it is the EABP. It would be nice to know who actually makes that filter.

I bought a cheap filter head through Napa and made my own mounting bracket. I drilled and tapped the center for a 1/2" NPT plug, and drilled a very small hole through the plug to control the flow of oil. For hose I used 1/2" Parker fuel line and used JIC fittings. I searched extensively and could not find another bypass filter so I had to go with Amsoil on the filter. If your interested in part numbers or any more info, I can look it up and post it.

Ive thought about trying a 30w as well but Ford strongly recommends 20w for the operation of their variable camshaft timing. The only thing that scares me is the record cold winters we've had the last two years and these motors are supposedly very dependent on the thinner oil. Ive found a 20w that seems to hold up quite well so for now I think I'll stick with it.

Our 3v 4.6 is hell on 20w oil as well. Schaeffers 9000 is the only oil Ive found that I can safely go double or more the recommended 7500 OCI. I typically do one oil change a year in every vehicle (at least that is the goal) which so far has been less than 20k annually for the Mercury. The 12 valve and early 24 valve engines are some of the easiest engines on oil as far as depleting TBN. Lack of EGR and lower injector psi (than CR) are favorable, not to mention ULSD negate as much a need for higher TBN levels. There are a few tractors on the family farm with old rotory style injection pumps that dont see many hours and get oil changes every other year. While I would probably test them if the repair bill were on my shoulders its been that way as long as I remember, which was during the days of CH/CI oil and "dirty" fuel.

Typical Saturday afternoon around here (wife and kids in the picture) Our place just visible at the back edge of the field. Its been a super late spring around here, trees are just now starting to bud. At the rate were going planting season is going to be pushed back quite a bit, we had a good snow Thursday night and still getting some heavy frosts. Been an unusually long winter for sure.

I realize fixes aren't always cut and dry. I'm a very patient person as long as they are making an attempt to make it right, but when a shop cancels on me twice after paying them to do a job I get a little testy. We waited over a week for the first appointment after they replaced the compressor, they canceled on the day of the appointment and did the very same thing the following week. If we were a new customer i wouldnt have much to complain about,but they had already charged good money for less than 2 hours work. Maybe I expect to much but that is my definition of not being accountable.

Ive not been able to find a local shop that does good a/c work either. So its either take your chances and let a hack work on your vehicle or suck it up and take it to the dealer. The former option is more costly but they are the better bet of the two, at least they can be held accountable for their work. I have a friend that owns an automotive shop with the necessary equipment but he has been closed up for health reasons. The only other local shop here we tried a few years back and it didn't turn out well. It was for the wife's a/c compressor, I bought all the parts and brought them in and the car. They told me to leave it as it wouldn't be til later that afternoon. An hour and a half later they called and said it was done. It was OK for the first week but when the weather got hot it was hardly sufficient. We ended up paying the dealer to draw the system down and recharge it as that was the only way they would work on it and the local shop that did the work kept pushing us off. Its hard to find people to do the job you pay them to do.

I was actually looking at Robinairs website last night after talking to my cousin. I'm sure the pumps are made by someone else but if Robinair will put their name on it it should be a decent pump for light duty use. I agree with your assessment on the free use from Auto zone and that may be the best way for me to go as well. But for $100 (plus possibly a set of scales) its quite tempting to pick one up to be able to do mine and my immediate families a/c work for the future. Ive already got a manifold for diagnosing and charging. Thanks for the suggestions guys.