diesel4life

Ram does not recommend a slide in camper with the 2500 as it has the rear air ride suspension and is so far inboard the high center of gravity of a slide in causes instability. You will need a 3500 srw truck For that. Not sure if you have looked into them much but the Aisin transmission is available in the 3500 srw and drw is the most capable transmission on the market. If you can afford it the truck it is very stout and I would have no reservations about buying one if it was in my budget. The 13 and up 3500s are the most capable and most refined trucks Ram has built to date.There is a ton of info out there check out Cummins Forum or TDR if you happen to be a member over there.

And a public stoning followed by a hanging in the traitors home town recorded on live national television to show future deserters what their outcome will be. Oh wait, this is America where we welcome deserters with open arms??!!!! I just don't get it.

For what your looking for I think anything with a 14cm housing is going to be too laggy for your liking. The larger the turbo the more air it will move but you also have to have the right balance of fuel and rpm to keep the larger turbo lit. Kind of hard when your running at cruising speed With a load hooked. In my opinion the variable geometry turbos are the most well rounded turbo out there for DD and towing but unfortunately they aren't exactly a bolt on application for the 2nd gens and require some fab work and a stand alone controller. A 40-60 horse injector and a good programmer will wake your rig up like you wouldn't believe, I really think you would be happy with the combo and possibly an HX upgrade down the road. DAP is a good source for them as well as Vulcan Performance.

I've considered the Super B as an upgrade but I'm afraid the 14cm housing would be too much for towing and I'd be watching my egt's all the time. I would agree with others at this point, get yourself a tuner and a mild set of injectors if you want more than the tuner will provide. If your trans was rebuilt to stock specs you should really consider a performance valve body to up the line pressure as a bare minimum before going too crazy with power mods. A good quality single disc convertor would also be wise investment.

I am normally in the 300-350 range. How do your egt's look while driving? Same? Different? You could always pull the probe and check for exceesive soot build up or abnormal wear.

^^^^Gotta love them torque multipliers!^^^^^^

Not mine but he bought a 13 Laramie Longhorn with Aisin trans.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/247894-97-3500-4X4-dually check this beauty out.

How you getting the trailer back home Russ? Do you think it is a braking related issue, or strictly steering? Scary either way when it happens, especially with a load in tow. Hope ya get to feelin better soon, and good luck with the truck.

There is a substantial difference in GVW between a SRW and DRW. A DRW may be a tad heavier but not 2200 lbs heavier.

Duallys are meant for towing/hauling heavy. Hard to justify in my mind if I'm not doing one or the other on a regular basis. The thing that would be hardest for me is off road/winter travel. SRW will out perform a DRW in every scenario and I do a good bit of both. What year truck are you looking at? If you step up to a CR you can get a 3500 SRW which will have a higher rear axle rating then your current configuration. Even a 2nd gen with a D80 will be an improvement over your D70.

I have a Diamond Eye exhaust as well and it has held up very well to the humid salty winters here. I'm not for sure if they have a 3" system.

I use Schaeffer's anaylis kit as that is the oil I use exclusively in all my engines. I stumbled across a neat little program that Fleetgaurd has called the Monitor program, when I get some more time I'm going to look into it a little more but so far I like the looks of it.

That is beautiful thanks for sharing. Fits me and "kid" to a T! (my soon to be 15 year old lab)

I would be very interested to hear some more of what you learned! So a 2um rated filter is not rated at 2um under vibration? BOY is that scary considering many engine manufacturers mount their filters either directly to or in the immediate vicinity of the engine! On the water separators, that does make sense in a way because I have always made a habit of cracking the drain on both of mine and have never got any noticeable amounts of water. I have even collected the fuel I drained into a clear container and have never seen any traceable amounts... That's pretty scary too, because that can only mean any water in the fuel is being retained in suspension and passed entirely through the fuel system.

5W40 is a very common viscosity and you should be able to get some form of it locally. I know my local NAPA carries Mobile 1, Valvoline Premium Blue, and Rotella T6. There are many others as well, including Amsoil and Schaeffers which I use in the wifes VW TDI, the ones I listed are very common and should be available at most any auto parts chain or tractor supply or farm and fleet store. These of course are synthetics (or at a minimum synthetic blend), I don't know of anybody that makes a 5w40 dino oil. As for the 10w30, Mobil DELVAC 1300, Valvoline, Castro Hypuron, AM$SOIL, Schaeffers, just to name a few. There are many others out there.

I know what's in the additives, I researched BEFORE I started using them. I also know they have surpassed the requirements of the Cummins N14 injector corrosion test performance as well as the Cummins L-10 injector deposit test, has been tested and approved by Bosch and found to have 3 X the lubrication of ULSD, among other cold flow improvement properties and cetene boosters That 2 stroke oil was never DESIGNED to do Or be used for. I think I'll trust in the engineers that design the stuff for what it's used for, they've got thousands and thousands of hours of run time to back their product up rather then one HFRR test performed several years ago.

There are several manufacturers that are making 5w40 and 10w30 diesel engine oil with the CJ4 specs. 10w30 is actually the recommended viscosity on some newer light duty diesel engines now days.

CH4 specs were released in 1998 to meet the new emmissions criteria. That being said, it's been discontinued for several years now. CI4 oil is becoming harder to find and will eventually be phased out as well. Unless your running AM$OIL or a dino CI4 oil, your likely running CJ4 oil. Viscosity has nothing to do with the specs, it is about soot retention and ashless formulas to prevent the dpf in 07.5 and up trucks from plugging.

There is also a possibility the inlet screen is plugged or partially plugged. It is in the inlet line to the pump. Like Tom says if the fluid is old a good flush may be in order as well.

I have small 4 oz bottles I keep in my tool box with 1 oz marked increments. One oz of the Schaeffer's I use treats 8 gallons of fuel, so one of my bottles is good for 32 gallons. I will generally pur in what I think I'm gonna use minus a little, fill up, and then add whatever I was short. Between the fuel return of my AD and the fuel sloshing around in the tank, that half an oz or so at the end will get good and mixed up. It's really pretty simple.

But place the same amount of diesel fuel out in the open, and a good portion of that will be evaporated as well. The true lubricity additives are alcohol free, at least I know Schaeffers is as well as Optilube. I have a bottle of Fleetgaurd lubricity additive at home, I will post the info on it when I get home. This is a product tested, developed, and approved by Cummins. The point I'm trying to make is not ALL fuel additives are bad. I bet if they retested many of those same brands that were tested 7 years ago most if not all would have a better rating than before.

Honestly they can find a better deal if they are patient. I'd be surprised if the truck even blue books at that price. The fact it has a "built" tranny wouldn't mean anything to me without receipts, but even then a truck is expected to have a properly functioning transmission so I don't see where they could ask more money for add ons like that. I realize these trucks are selling for around that money, but like I said there are also deals out there for much more reasonable money. I searched for over a year before I found my 98.5, I bought it from the original owner with 67k miles and paid 10k for it. Bone stock, completely unmolested (until I got a hold of it!)

60 Horse sticks and an HX will be just dandy. The HY has a smaller housing for emissions reasons and will spool quicker but you may find it a tad hot in the Upper boost range.

Honestly you can't go wrong with a mechanical gauge. The whole deal of fuel rupturing in the cab is way overdrawn. The only way fuel will ever rupture in the cab is if the line gets cut or rubbed through or a fitting works itself loose. Wrap your line where it goes through the firewall and tighten your compression fittings and you will have zero worries. I hear of horror stories on the interweb but the problems are 99% of the time the end users fault. My uncles have both been running mechanical gauges in their rigs for decades and have never had any problems.