diesel4life

Funny you posted this, I was just looking at them online the other night. I'm about to redeck my tilt trailer as many of the boards are cracked and gouged from winching stuff up on it not to mention they are getting pretty weathered. Was looking at the bushings in the equalizers and they are due. Going to install a set of grease buddies while I'm at it.

So what about the rubber valve stems on our trucks? I do have steel stems on my trailer and have thought about putting them on my truck just because they are more durable but never gave the pressure rating any thought

There is a "donations" link at the top of the page.

Caterpillar says no more than 3% weo/fuel ratio (pre common rail fuel systems) and have strict requirements for mixing and filtering. It has been a long time since I read the article, but it goes something like this: First you are to do a 50/50 blend of weo/diesel fuel, IE 50 gallons weo and 50 gallons diesel fuel, THOROUGHLY mix the 2 components and then transfer the mix to the EMPTY (or nearly empty) fuel storage tank via a fuel/water seperator and 2 micron filtration, and then top off the storage tank with fresh diesel for a final ratio of 3%. weo/diesel fuel.

Check around your local want ads and ebay for a set of take offs from a 13 or 14 Ram. They are now available in 18" and 20" wheels.

Looks good! Do you run airbags? I've been really contemplating a ping tank for my bags, and a compressor would be a great addition as well. I was really looking hard at them over the winter but just bought a new bike so my fun funds have been put on hold for now, lol.

Long gun ammo has returned in full force here locally. Still short on .45 rounds, I've only been able to find it in one shop locally for some time now and they want an arm and a leg. I don't like the idea of internet purchases when it comes to buying guns and ammo, too much of a paper trail.

It's certainly an interesting concept, fairly simple yet looks like it would be effective. How much are they? I think most of the failed attempts at Lock N Stitch are probably the end users fault, they have a high sucess rate when done by the book and actually have a warranty when performed by an authorized dealer. They have several patents regarding this form of repair and have done countless hours of research and development with metallurgists and engineers to develop their system. This is something they have specialized in way before the 53 block came about and have been successfully performing repairs on engines much larger then the Cummins with massive amounts of torque and stress. If my block ever developed a crack I wouldn't hesitate to use their product before condemning my engine.

Maxxis is one of the few tires companies that I've seen that make a 10 ply in a 15" tire. The tires on my trailer which are 16" wheels are now 6 years old and I'm having thoughts about changing them out to prevent any potential failures. Can't make up my mind if I want to stick with ST or switch over.

I used brake line for the steel section. Remove the old line and measure and bend the new line to match. If you buy that copper/nickel alloy stuff you can make sharp bends by hand it's so easy to work with. And lasts a lifetime, will not corrode like standard brake line will. That is all I use anytime I have to replace a brake line because I know I will never have to worry about it again.

I might live in Yankee land, but I got rebel blood runnin' through my veins LOL

Yep, ol Junior Johnson out of Wilkesboro North Cackolacky. LOL I'd say if it's got his name on it it's about as real as legal shine can be.

What is the brand of it? There has been a rise in popularity of "legal shine" although by true definition it can only be moonshine if it was distilled by the light of the moon. There are very few states that allow legal distillation of spirits. I know Tennessee, Virginia, and I think North Carolina it is legal with the proper liscenses. Not sure where else it may be legal. I have a friend who has family that comes up from the Carolinas every year. He always brings a few quarts of his home brew with him. He generally proofs it out at 100-110 proof but a few years ago he brought up a jar of straight shine. Talk about firewater! It even burned the lips on the way down LOL. He said he figured it to be about 150 proof.

Sounds like the torque convertor is toast. If the truck is in an area where you have a little room to spare, put it in neutral and slap it in drive/reverse with no foot on the brake. May have to give it just a little rpm to keep the engine running long enough to get rolling. If it takes off and drives fine afterwards I'd say it's time for a torque convertor and a fluid flush at a minimum and probably a valvebody in the trans.

Is your truck a 2wheel drive or 4 wheel drive? 4wheel drive torque specs are 180 ft lbs. I am not for sure on the 2 wheel drive front end.

I would buy a good name brand hub like Timken or such. They have some cheaper units out there that do not hold up very well under these heavy front ends. Also on the power steering fluid Chrysler still does rerecommend Power Steering Fluid for the 94-02 trucks. TSB 19-005-03 Power Steering Fluid Usage Visit Geno's Garage for Truck accessories. Date: Aug. 29, 2003 Models: 1994 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup, 2002 - 2004 (DR) Ram Pickup 1993 - 2003 (AB) Ram Van 1994 - 2004 (AN) Dakota 1994 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup 2004 (CS) Pacifica 1998 - 2004 (DN) Durango 2002 - 2004 (DR) Ram Pickup 1996 - 2000 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (nternational Markets) 1995 - 2000 (JA) Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze 2001 - 2004 (JR) Sebring Sedan, Stratus Sedan, Sebring Convertible 1996 - 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible 2002 - 2004 (KJ) Liberty 2002 - 2004 (KJ) Cherokee (International Markets) 1993 - 2004 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/Vision/LHS/New Yorker/300M 1996 - 2000 (NS) Town & Country/Voyager/Caravan 2002 (PG) Chrysler PT Cruiser (International Markets) 1995 - 2004 (PL) Neon 1997 - 2003 (PR) Prowler 2002 - 2004 (PT) Chrysler PT Cruiser 2001 - 2004 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets) 2001 - 2004 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager 1993 - 2002 (SR) Viper/Viper Coupe 2001 - 2004 (ST) Sebring Coupe/Stratus Coupe 1997 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler 2003 - 2004 (VA) Sprinter 1999 - 2004 (WG) Grand Cherokee (International Markets) 1999 - 2004 (WJ) Grand Cherokee 2003 - 2004 (ZB) Viper 2004 (ZH) Crossfire Discussion: The factory fill power steering fluid for most 2004 model year Chrysler Group vehicles is ATF+4 (MS9602) and it provides superior performance at both low and high temperatures. WJ/WG and ZH vehicles use unique power steering fluids. Refer to the table to identify factory fill and the approved service power steering fluid by year and model. Note that MS9602 is Red in color and MS5931 and MS9933 are Amber/Yellow in color. All three fluids will darken in color with usage and fluid color is no longer an indication of fluid condition. The part numbers for MS9602 are 05013457AA (quart) and 05013458AA (gallon). The part number for MS5931 is 04883077 (quart). The part number for MB345 is 05127381AA. MS9602 should not be mixed or used as a “topping off” fluid on systems requiring MS5931. On some past models, MS9602 should be used as the replacement fluid. On these models, if a power steering system is being serviced that results in a large fluid loss, such as a pump, hose or gear/rack replacement, the complete system should be drained and filled with MS9602. NOTE: This bulletin supersedes owner’s and service manuals for the vehicles listed above that may state to use MS9933 in the power steering system, and that may state not to use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering system. BODY YEAR FACTORY FILL POWER STEERING FLUID APPROVED SERVICE POWER STEERING FLUID AB 1993 - 2003 MS5931 MS5931 AN 1994 - 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 BR/BE 1994 - 2002 MS5931 MS5931 CS 2004 MS9602 MS9602 DN 1998-1999 2000 - 2001 2002 - 2003 MS5931 MS5931 (built before June 1, 2001) MS9602 (built June 1, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 DR 2002 - 2004 MS9602 MS9602 GS 1996 - 2000 MS5931 MS5931 JA 1995 - 1998 1999 - 2000 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS9602 JR 2001 2002 - 2004 MS9933 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 JX 1996 - 1998 1999 - 2000 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS9602 KJ 2002 - 2004 MS9602 MS9602 LH 1993 - 1997 1998 - 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 MS9933 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 NS 1996 - 2000 MS5931 MS5931 PG 2002 MS9602 MS9602 PL 1995 - 1998 1999 - 2000 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 MS9933 MS9933 (built before June 5, 2001) MS9602 (built June 5, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 PR 1997 1999 2000 - 2003 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 PT 2001 2002 - 2004 MS9933 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 RG 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 (built before July 2, 2001) MS9602 (built July 2, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 RS 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 (built @ Windsor before May 22, 2001) MS9602 (built @ Windsor May 22, 2001 or later) MS5931 (built @ St. Louis before June 4, 2001) MS9602 (built @ St. Louis June 4, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 SR 1992 - 1998 1999 - 2000 2001 - 2003 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 ST 2001 - 2004 MMC MS9602 TJ 1997 - 2002 2003 - 2004 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 VA 2003 - 2004 MB341 MS9602 WG 1999 - 2004 MS5931 MS5931 WJ 1999 - 2004 MS5931 MS5931 ZB 2003 - 2004 MS9602 MS9602 ZH 2004 MB345 MB345 Policy: Information Only. I would like to thank Bob Bergevin, Arthur Cantrall, Barry Drodge, David Lovell, Bill Maurits, and Steve for supplying the information for these bulletins. And a big thank you goes to Geno's Garage for making DodgeRam.info possible. Top of Page DodgeRam.info Home This page was edited on: May 3, 2004

OK a little late but thought I would post it anyway for anybody that might be interested. They make it a little confusing by posting the numbers rather than "ATF4" or "PS fluid" but once you figure out which is which it's pretty straight forward. TSB 19-005-03 Power Steering Fluid Usage Visit Geno's Garage for Truck accessories. Date: Aug. 29, 2003 Models: 1994 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup, 2002 - 2004 (DR) Ram Pickup 1993 - 2003 (AB) Ram Van 1994 - 2004 (AN) Dakota 1994 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup 2004 (CS) Pacifica 1998 - 2004 (DN) Durango 2002 - 2004 (DR) Ram Pickup 1996 - 2000 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (nternational Markets) 1995 - 2000 (JA) Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze 2001 - 2004 (JR) Sebring Sedan, Stratus Sedan, Sebring Convertible 1996 - 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible 2002 - 2004 (KJ) Liberty 2002 - 2004 (KJ) Cherokee (International Markets) 1993 - 2004 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/Vision/LHS/New Yorker/300M 1996 - 2000 (NS) Town & Country/Voyager/Caravan 2002 (PG) Chrysler PT Cruiser (International Markets) 1995 - 2004 (PL) Neon 1997 - 2003 (PR) Prowler 2002 - 2004 (PT) Chrysler PT Cruiser 2001 - 2004 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets) 2001 - 2004 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager 1993 - 2002 (SR) Viper/Viper Coupe 2001 - 2004 (ST) Sebring Coupe/Stratus Coupe 1997 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler 2003 - 2004 (VA) Sprinter 1999 - 2004 (WG) Grand Cherokee (International Markets) 1999 - 2004 (WJ) Grand Cherokee 2003 - 2004 (ZB) Viper 2004 (ZH) Crossfire Discussion: The factory fill power steering fluid for most 2004 model year Chrysler Group vehicles is ATF+4 (MS9602) and it provides superior performance at both low and high temperatures. WJ/WG and ZH vehicles use unique power steering fluids. Refer to the table to identify factory fill and the approved service power steering fluid by year and model. Note that MS9602 is Red in color and MS5931 and MS9933 are Amber/Yellow in color. All three fluids will darken in color with usage and fluid color is no longer an indication of fluid condition. The part numbers for MS9602 are 05013457AA (quart) and 05013458AA (gallon). The part number for MS5931 is 04883077 (quart). The part number for MB345 is 05127381AA. MS9602 should not be mixed or used as a “topping off” fluid on systems requiring MS5931. On some past models, MS9602 should be used as the replacement fluid. On these models, if a power steering system is being serviced that results in a large fluid loss, such as a pump, hose or gear/rack replacement, the complete system should be drained and filled with MS9602. NOTE: This bulletin supersedes owner’s and service manuals for the vehicles listed above that may state to use MS9933 in the power steering system, and that may state not to use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering system. BODY YEAR FACTORY FILL POWER STEERING FLUID APPROVED SERVICE POWER STEERING FLUID AB 1993 - 2003 MS5931 MS5931 AN 1994 - 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 BR/BE 1994 - 2002 MS5931 MS5931 CS 2004 MS9602 MS9602 DN 1998-1999 2000 - 2001 2002 - 2003 MS5931 MS5931 (built before June 1, 2001) MS9602 (built June 1, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 DR 2002 - 2004 MS9602 MS9602 GS 1996 - 2000 MS5931 MS5931 JA 1995 - 1998 1999 - 2000 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS9602 JR 2001 2002 - 2004 MS9933 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 JX 1996 - 1998 1999 - 2000 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS9602 KJ 2002 - 2004 MS9602 MS9602 LH 1993 - 1997 1998 - 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 MS9933 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 NS 1996 - 2000 MS5931 MS5931 PG 2002 MS9602 MS9602 PL 1995 - 1998 1999 - 2000 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 MS9933 MS9933 (built before June 5, 2001) MS9602 (built June 5, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 PR 1997 1999 2000 - 2003 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 PT 2001 2002 - 2004 MS9933 MS9602 MS9602 MS9602 RG 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 (built before July 2, 2001) MS9602 (built July 2, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 RS 2001 2002 - 2004 MS5931 (built @ Windsor before May 22, 2001) MS9602 (built @ Windsor May 22, 2001 or later) MS5931 (built @ St. Louis before June 4, 2001) MS9602 (built @ St. Louis June 4, 2001 or later) MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 MS9602 SR 1992 - 1998 1999 - 2000 2001 - 2003 MS5931 MS9933 MS5931 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 ST 2001 - 2004 MMC MS9602 TJ 1997 - 2002 2003 - 2004 MS5931 MS9602 MS5931 MS9602 VA 2003 - 2004 MB341 MS9602 WG 1999 - 2004 MS5931 MS5931 WJ 1999 - 2004 MS5931 MS5931 ZB 2003 - 2004 MS9602 MS9602 ZH 2004 MB345 MB345 Policy: Information Only. I would like to thank Bob Bergevin, Arthur Cantrall, Barry Drodge, David Lovell, Bill Maurits, and Steve for supplying the information for these bulletins. And a big thank you goes to Geno's Garage for making DodgeRam.info possible. Top of Page DodgeRam.info Home This page was edited on: May 3, 2004

I have always had the utmost respect for any man who makes his living off the land. I spent many summers on my grandfathers ranch in Wyoming. He certainly didn't lead an easy life, and made a marginal living at best. He worked the land until his body gave out and sold it off. I think he left a piece of himself behind when he drove down that long 1/2 mile drive from the ranch to the road for the final time... My aunt and uncle run a large dairy farm out here. They have built their milking herd up to around 350 cows 3x a day. Up at 4am and work til dark seven days a week. They never take time off, never vacation anywhere. They eat sleep and breathe that farm. My aunt and my mother are twin sisters, yet my aunt looks at least 10 years older than my mother. Farm life is a hard one for sure. I can't imagine the stresses they deal with running a large operation like that and being at the mercy of the ever fluctuating milk prices. They are very frugal and have made it work, how I don't really know. My hats off to you Rick.

If your shocks are worn I would get them replaced. I've got Bilsteins all the way around, big improvement over the old worn out OEMs. My personal preference in load levelling would be air bags. Timbrens are good for slide in campers or guys that are loaded all the time but anytime you run around empty the ride is horrible. I have a friend that runs them on his Ford, I don't know how he deals with it. Every time I'm in that truck I need to see a chiropractor.My airbags also ride a little rougher when empty but aired down to five pounds it is acceptable.; I've been contemplating piping in a set of ping tanks to help with the ride but I haven't decided if it's worth the money.

I believe you probably felt the extreme low gearing from being in 4low. You may very well have been in third or fourth gear and had lock up? I know if I hit the OD button so my trans stays in third gear while in 4low I will hit lock up in third at less than 15mph. Just be careful using 4low on any paved surface as it is very hard on the drivetrain. I tend not to even think about using it unless I am off the hard pan.

http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=2W04008KN This is very similar to what I have but not exact. A few things you should look for are 1) a normally open valve configuration, 2) a continuous duty solenoid will give you longer service life but is not an absolute must, and 3) a 2 way valve will open and close with minimal pressure/vacuum. Some valve configurations require pressure to open so read up on the specs before you buy anything. Also most solenoids come in either 120v or 12v so make sure you select a 12v solenoid.

Pic of the solenoid valve. I made a simple bracket out of 1/2" conduit, flattened the ends and drilled holes though them for mounting and used one of the bolts for the hood hinge to secure it. Just one of several ways to mount it. I came out of the valve with barbed fittings to make the connection to the vacuum lines simple. Two way toggle switch to actuate valve. I mounted it down low and out of the way as I really don't need it very often. It is mounted under the cup holder. This is where the vacuum line comes out of the manifold and drops down to the tcase and supplies vacuum for the cad. I disconnected it here and ran it through the valve and then back down to the tcase. The valve is a normally open valve so under normal circumstances vacuum flows through it so when I shift into 4wheel drive high or low everything works as normal. If I want 2low I have to flip the switch first to interrupt the flow of vaccum and then engage the tcase into 4low. It's a very simple set up, probably not as fancy as the disconnect kit you can buy but not a bad alternative if your on a budget or you just want to save a few bucks. I bought the valve from a local industrial supply company but I know they are available online as well. Around $40 for the valve, $10 for a toggle switch and a few feet of vacuum line along with some wiring and your all set.

NAPA part number 456200

I acquired a brand new Diamond Eye TBE second hand for next to nothing. Initially I gotta say I wasn't exactly impressed because it came in so many pieces, down pipe straight section to replace resonator, and 2 piece tail pipe. Once I fit it together I tacked it together then dropped it back down and welded most of the connections, leaving the muffler to be clamped in the event I need to change it someday. It is an aluminized system and after dealing with 3 harsh winters of high humidity and road salt, brine, beet juice, and whatever else they throw on the roads here it still looks like new. It has discolored a bit naturally but there is not one spot of rust anywhere on the entire pipe except at the clamps and hangers. I believe Diamond Eye is one of the cheaper systems you can buy but I have to say they do at least use a good quality exhaust pipe. I've bought Walker systems and a few other cheaper over the counter exhaust systems for different vehicles and by the third winter had holes in the pipe again.

http://www.dieseltunesperformancechips.com/dodge-cummins Is this what your talking about? It seems as if DieselTunes bought out the WorkHorse name, or something to that effect. I honestly have not heard of either, but browing their web page they seem like they are pretty good quality. Priced similarly to a Smarty, so if thats any indication you should be fine running it.