diesel4life

I would spend the money and rebuild it yourself. I have given up on all reman junk, had too many repeat failures with the final straw being a frozen caliper that left me on the side of the road 200 miles from home. This was a NAPA reman, I went through 3 in a year. I've had similar experiences with their altenators and starters. No more for me. If I can't rebuild it myself I'll go buy new whether its aftermarket or OEM. As for your question, I doubt they will pony up and give you a new starter. Your probably stuck with their reman junk. I would tear yours apart and buy the necessary parts to make it right from Larry's. I've used his parts and they are OEM quality.

OK I'm a bit slow here, are you implying you dye your hair?

The label on my can of Bostik copper antisieze says its good to 1800 degrees and the can of Nickel antisieze says its good to 2400 degrees. We use both of these at work on studs and gaskets. For example, the 36" off gas piping at the outlet of our reactors can reach temps up to 1000 degrees. The piping is lined with 4.5" of high temperature refractory, so the actual temperature of the steel usually does not exceed 300 degrees. The piping is bolted together with 24 - 7/8" studs. Typically the reactors will last anywhere from 15-24 months before they need to be taken off line to be rebricked, and the off gas piping up top will be taken apart and flown down to be relined. We have used both types (copper and nickel), and the nickel grade always seems to last longer. Even though the copper grade is thicker, the heat flashes it off quicker than the nickel grade.

Welcome! From the looks of your Sig, I'd say you built your truck the right way. Too many times people like to add the horsepower parts before addressing the weak links, and then can't figure out why their truck leaves them stranded. Good on ya for prepping the truck properly! RV275s are a good injector that will give you many years of trouble free miles. I've got about 15-20k on mine and am very happy with them, but will be swapping them out this spring for a bigger set and a new turbo.

I'd like to get a snow blower for the front of my Honda. Snowblowing is in my opinion the best solution because it eliminates the necessity to pile snow up, and one mounted on an ATV would be small enough to be versatile around the house and garage. I've seen one in action and the guy was clearing 6-8" of wet snow at 3-5 mph. He made short work of his driveway which was probably 400-500 feet long. Problem is, they're stupid expensive. http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/atv-snowblower.htm

Please report back!

I also use antisieze on everything. Lug nuts, brake components, the backs of wheels, all steering/suspension components, universal joint straps/bolts, etc. Basically everything under the truck that is subjected to the weather. I use the nickel base rather than the copper, for some reason it is a thinner consistency than the copper base and also keeps that consistency in frigid weather. The copper based antisieze gets very thick, almost hard in cold weather. It also seems to resist wash out better. This is the Bostik brand and the only brand I use (get a GREAT deal on the stuff), so other brands may be different. As mentioned above, Anti Seize does affect torque values substantially. Depending on fastener size, thread pitch, etc, as much as 20-30% according to Bostik.

I agree,I would check this out next. Ball joints can also cause wandering. If yours are original they are more than likely dried up by now. I bought my 98 with 67k miles on the truck and while everything felt tight I had more steering wander than my 00 with close to 400k which I still had at the time. One of the lower ball joints boots was dry rotted and had a small tear in it, so I opened it up a little more for inspection. It was so dry there was actually rust in there. I replaced all 4 and my steering has been good and tight ever since.

I'm not a fan of using back blades on a tractor to plow with. It will get the job done but your always looking over your shoulder (bad for me with multiple hyrniated discs) and you tend to tear the drive up if its not frozen. If you can use the tractor for other things beside plowing it may be an OK option, just not the one I would choose. If your good at fabricating you could pick up an old beat up plow and make a frame to attach to the front end loader (provided the bucket comes off). You can use the hydraulics to tilt the plow from side to side. I made one for the Cat 908 where I used to work for clearing the parking lot and steel yard. We added some wings to the plow and it would really move some snow

Can you do a refresher on what all youhavr replaced in the front end recently? Although these trucks are notorious for having excessive steering wander it is not the norm. Theres definitely something we are over looking with your truck. My former 00 tracked straight as an arrow with close to 400k on the clock. My 98 only has 125k but also tracks very well. I run 285/75/17s (34" tall) tires as well. Hang in there, Russ.

If it is a scam, its a shame they've got so many public sectors on board. Schools, ambulances, fire trucks, etc.

Looks like it was built to store an RV or something similar in. Kind of an awkward shape, if you decide to buy it with the intentions of changing the size, I would see if you can find the siding locally to match. Unless you go smaller on the over all square footage you'll probably need to buy some extra material.

At the rate were going it'll be May before we see grass. Snow is still over knee deep (Im 6'2"). February's average temp was 11 degrees F. We were below zero 13 days. Spent 36 hours total above freezing. This all according to the weather station at the plant I work.

Have you towed much with this set up yet? I know I asked you before, just wondering if you've had the chance to give the set up a good work out lately. I'm pretty well set on the PS.

On the early 2nd gens it is recommended the cross overs be replaced when they're taken apart. I wonder what the difference is between the early and late 2nd gens.

What is the GVW of this rig? What about empty weight? I would expect 7k axles on a trailer that size. I'd also look at what they put on it for tires/wheels. Your also looking at a w/d set up and anti sway device, trailers that size can be a handful on the freeway fully loaded. Something else to think about, your going to have to spend some coin on some good e-track if you plan on hauling things other than a car. They don't offer much for tie down points, and you can easily spend hundreds of dollars in mounting hardware. Its not a deal breaker if you get a good enough deal, but some manufactures include this in their trailers.

Am definitely interested in what you put down, I'm buying a new turbo this spring and am 95% sure I will be buying a phatshaft. I've never ran my Smarty stacked, but being your goin for broke I'd think 9 on the solo run and 8 stacked. Then max out TM, injection timing on 3-4 and duration 4. Will be "watching" from Ohio!

http://fox8.com/2015/02/23/canadian-ship-frees-freighter-from-icy-lake-erie-near-conneaut/ Tom should know where Conneaut is.

I've got synthetic rope on both ATV winches as well as a 10k winch. Personally, I won't go back to steel cable. Cable CAN be more forgiving in certain circumstances and is easier to repair. But with rope, no more frays with broken wire strands that light you up, no more rusted stiff cable that has a memory like an ex wife. Rope is very easy to work with. I've got an assortment of line savers and straps if I need to wrap around an object. Never broke one yet in going on 3 years, and I use my winches quite regularly. It all comes down to personal preference, just like anything else. Russ, do you use your winch for other duties beside plowing? I would try one of these http://www.amazon.com/WARN-68560-Synthetic-Plow-Lift/dp/B000CQBMN6 Available in synthetic rope or steel cable They are short sections designed specifically for plowing. One thing that typically eats up winch cables is the repeated in/out winching on a full spool, the cable doesn't spool in evenly every time and you end up birdcaging the spool and fraying the cable being under constant tension from the plow. Then you add in the steep angle of the plow with weakend cable and you wind up with a break. This just keeps repeating itself until your down to next to no cable. The shorter cable alleviates that. Eventually you'll get there if you keep breaking it, but it sounds like to your cable is old and brittle. They do rust out and need replacing every so often, especially if its subjected to salt/humidity in the winter.

Minnesota mandates the use of B5 throughout the winter months (B10 in the summer months IIRC) and they are one of the coldest state in the lower 48 in terms of averages. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I seem to remember Maine on the list as well. The ones that have issues is more of a quality issue from individual suppliers,not B2/B5 as a whole. Personally I wish B2 was more readily available here, its got great lubricity properties.

Mines still perfect too. Although Friday morning at -39 I was really starting to think it was going to shatter with all the creaking that was going on in the cab.

Baldwin BF1275 w/s and Donaldson P551315 secondary filter on my AD100. At -39F Friday morning I had a steady 16-17psi.

Yes frame, suspension, brakes are all the same. Again, it all depends on what you've got for tires. (Just re read your first post, and misinterpreted it the first time). OEM 245/75/16 typically max out at under 6400lbs per axle, so unless one has higher capacity tires and wheels there's no point in looking at anything else. The 16" wheels are the crutch of the 2nd gens and by far the limiting factor.

Yes, the filter is typically the first place fuel will gel. A heater helps tremendously. Yesterday morning was -39F and EVERYTHING was gelling up around here. 2 semis and a diesel pickup on the side of the road on my way to work at 5am. You can bet they weren't hanging out for the fun of it! One of the semis already had a wrecker on scene, I stopped and asked the other 2 if they needed anything. They both had help on the way. At those temps, I have a hard time passing people by knowing they are broke down and likely without heat. It occurred to me when I saw the first truck that I didn't treat my tank with any antigel, just my normal treatment of Schaeffers. So either I got lucky, or the stuff is doing as advertised and treating the impurities that typically cause gelling in the first place.

The option for the new upgraded computer and new housing runs $1850, your run of the mill reman pump runs 1100 to 1200 or more if I'm not mistaken. These pumps are typically (not always, but usually) the ones you hear people complaining about failing within a few years. Sometimes you get lucky and the pump fails under warranty but usually its within a year or two of the warranty expiring. Either way its a bad situation if/when it strands you away from home. BC typically does not advertise like a lot of the other vendors do, but I've read plenty of hot shotters that run them (that's what Chip did before he got into researching the pumps and eventually developing his patents and where he made a name for himself) and getting 300k out of his pumps seem to be the rule rather than the exception. My former 00 had one put on it by the previous owner, as of the time I sold it (the vp) was pushing 300k miles. Not sure if its been replaced since but I still see it running around here and there, and I sold it 4 years ago in March. Yes they are more expensive by around $600 bucks, but considering the average lifespan is much longer than a typical pump its money well spent IMO. Do some searches on failed VP44s and you'll find them from every manufacture. Then do a search of failed VPs from BC. They're few and far between. Any part ever made costs more with new components than its reman counterpart. This has been true since the birth of aftermarket automotive parts. It all comes down to what your comfortable with. Considering the quality and reliability of anything reman, particularly in the last 5 years, I know I will pony up for the new part and buy the peace of mind that comes with it, but that's just me.