diesel4life

What does your Edge plug into, Mike? Never played with em before, im assuming it just has a 12 volt power source?

Thats about right, dripley. Im right at 1800rpm at 70mph, but Im also running 285/75 tires. With factory tires it would be pretty darn close to 2k rpm.

I have not used or know anybody that uses an MVP. I do know that you cant go wrong with a Smarty. Good clean power and the ability to read dtc, recalibrate speedo (for oversized tires) and enable the high idle feature. Just on that last one alone Ive made money on over the years flashing peoples trucks. After saving them a run to the stealership theyre more than happy to throw me a few bucks

If you want to get real technical about torqing things that you cant get a socket on, you can pick up a set of crows feet for fairly cheap. Basically an open end wrench with either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch square in the end to put your torque wrench into. They can be tricky to use though because they are only accurate if you use them with the open end of the crows foot 90* to the torque wrench. As you change the angle with which you are tightening your torque will begin to vary because you are changing the leverage of the torque wrench. Most sets have a cheat sheet so you can make the necessary adjustments to your torque wrench to achieve desired torque. The other thing you could do is tighten a random nut to your desired torque and then use your wrench on that same nut to get a feel of how tight you need to be going. Its not an exact science by any means but at least you will have a feel for what you are after.Another thing you could try is take some antisieze and very lightly coat the threads before you assemble. Be careful not to get anything on the sealing surface. Antisieze is an excellant lubricant and helps to achieve proper torque of threads without galling them. Actually it is required to achieve proper torque of ANY bolt just for the lubrication purpose. Putting something together dry will cause friction and cause a false torque reading. Hard materials like stainless are much more prone to galling without proper lubrication.

Good deal! It always feels good getting your rig figured out, esp doing the work yourself. You save yourself some cha ching and sometimes even learn something in the process.

OK Im a little interested, what are you guys using these for (other than possible entertainment)? As stated above, I didnt think they were very common anymore with the big technology wave. Does the highwaypatrol or the sherriff still monitor cb channels? Is there an emergency channel you can tune to if your up sh*ts creek? What are some other uses? Youve got me interested now!

Maybe they will start thinkin about us "peons" with the dinosaurs now that big brother took their rights away with the newer toys

I would agree with what the manufacture is saying it makes alot more sense to me now. The dealership on the other hand, Unless you guys live and drive in a really dusty environment or maybe your in the city and constant stop and go traffic and/or your car never has the chance to warm up? I could see that last one making sense too because if a person typically drives only a few city blocks at a time and shuts their car off again then its going to take a long time just to reach that 3500 mile mark, it is alot of stress on an engine. Alot more than jumping on the freeway and driving 3500 straight miles. You know your car and driving habits better than they do, Im sure your making a well informed and educated decision

Wow... is that what your manual states? Id like to know what running in the cold weather and snow would do to a vehicles oil...thats just plain nuts. I was always under the assumption severe duty meant frequent start/stops, constant lugging of engine, extended idle times, etc etc.

Russ, I dont have any experience with your vehicle in particular, but 7500 mile intervals is not uncommon anymore. With the advancements in oil, filters, and tighter tolerances and cleaner injection cycles in todays engines, 3 thousand mile intervals are a thing of the past. Even my former 95 toyota 4runner and my current beater 93 toyota pickup have 7500 mile intervals, thats the factories recomendarions. You should be able to find your vehicles recomendations in your service manual somewhere, I would follow those guidelines over the dealerships recomendations.

I was referring to my 3/8 drive, its very small and compact. Less than half the size of my 1/2 drive 18 volt which is good for 325.My buddy has a cordless snap on that will bust regular sockets in nothing flat if he rattles a stubborn bolt. Its actually got more torque than his 1/2 ingersoll air impact at 90 psi. Its pretty wicked, pretty pricey too. I couldnt justify spending that kind of money on something, but he makes a living with his tools doing road side repairs for medium duty and tractor trucks. Fully outfitted 08 F600 with 75k in tools on board, hes got more capabilities from his rig than I could ever dream of doing out of my garage!

Like I said Im not saying it cant be done Im just not sure... my tc lock up is home made just as yours is. To keep it locked in 3rd I have to hit the od switch otherwise it will drop right to od the second the trans shifts out of 1st gear. Id love to be able to lock up 1st and 2nd Ive heard it can be done but dont know how. Keeping the trans locked does make a huge difference, i can be pulling a heavy load in 3rd at 40 to 50 mph with the tc locked and my temp gauge wont budge above 130 to 140. If I unlock it, I can literally watch the temp climb 30 to 40 degrees in seconds, maybe more depending on the load.

Your 01 getting better mileage than your 04.5 can be explained with one word... EPA. Generally speaking, the older the truck, the better the fuel mileage (empty not towing) they got. The older the cummins the less the epa had their hands on them they were less restricted. But the newer the model the more emissions were added, timing retarded for NOX, etc etc. The up side is they do make more power than the older models and are more efficient at towing with 6 speed transmissions and better gear ratio options which is why you see better numbers towing.

Rancherman, the tc wont lock up until 3rd gear, 1st and 2nd do not lock up (unless Rogan has modified the valve body). Having said that, I dont think it will engage into 3rd unless the truck is already running? Ive never tried it before so Im not discrediting you, just throwing that out there to try n save Rogan an unneccessary headache :doh:I agree with above statement, put truck in park, turn key on and cross contacts with selonoid. Itll get ya goin and back home where you can at least work on it.Oh the joys of owning 15 year old vehicles!

You should be able to give it a good yank if its already been out once the only thing that holds it in is a small clip at the end of the splines. You can also try GENTLY prying with a good sized pry bar between the differential and the cup of the cv joint. Just be careful, the differential is aluminum and on my Rincon there is a mounting ear that could break off if you abuse it too much. Like I said earlier I had to use a large slidehammer i started off on the end of the cv joint hooking the slide hammer up to the hub using the lug nuts. I had a helper keeping the cv joint straight while I hammered the snot out of it. The inner cv ended up coming apart so I then had to switch the ends of my slide hammer to a 3 jaw puller. The jaws just barely grabbed the out side of the inner cv cup (this was all that was left sticking out of the differential) and used tie wire to keep the jaws tight to the cup. I beat the snot out of it with the slide hammer until it eventually came out. Then i used a brass drift pin to reach through to the other side and took my bafh and drove the other cv out. Hopefully you dont have the problems I did, it doesnt sound like you will if its already been out. I think its a bad design, the cv splines go straight through the differential yet they are not lubed at all. So like in my case, I have a 2005 Rincon with nearly 4 thousand miles thats been rode hard, been in lots of water and mud. Now I wash my machine after every ride, have installed grease fittings in all bushings in my a arms, and keep up on the maintenance like clockwork. So its not a matter of neglect by any means. Just a poor design

If your talking about removing the cv joints from the differential, they are held in by a snap ring. Once you have the outer part of the joint removed from the hub, they should pop out with a good tug (in a perfect world of course). If its been a long time since theyve been apart, they are probably rusted in there because they are not lubricated by the gear oil like youd think they should be. Ive used a big slide hammer with a 3 jaw adapter and used a little elbow grease to get em out.

Ive had my 14 volt 3/8 dewalt impact for a few years and love it. I checked it with a torque wrench and its good for 70 ft lbs consistantly. Small enough to get into virtually everything on my Honda, I take it with me on my fourwheeling trips every year. Its also perfect for taking to the junkyard to strip parts

talk about a bummer. Especially with the holiday weekend coming they may be a few days getting your car done. Sounds alot like my luck! :banghead:Hope you have a happy thanksgiving

Are you having problems with your truck starting? I suppose you could wire your lp to an ign source but unless your having issue I dont think theres any benefits to it

Ok.... first off I would scrap the stealership your frequenting... seems like they dont want or need your buisiness. Not sure how many people are on here from your area, maybe someone can point you towards a good repair shop. They are around, they can be tough to find though. As far as updating your ecm for the high idle, if your truck has been in to the dealership anytime in the last several years it most likely has the updated software already. Do you know anybody with a similar truck(98.5 to 02) that has a smarty? If so you can get the update through them. If you must go back to the dealership I would seriously think about finding a different one to visit! Vaccum lines have nothing to do with what you were there requesting!

Have you ever tried resetting your apps through out this whole ordeal? I know it doesnt explain the code that keeps popping up, but it sounds alot like when my friends apps went south and his truck actually never even tripped a code. If he started his truck it would run fine when cold. As soon as the truck started to warm up, something in the apps sensor would start acting up. It was like clock work, his temps would hit about 160 and it was like hitting a light switch night and day difference. Its a real outside chance, but you could always try the reset and see if it makes a difference it wont cost you anything. Also, Im sure theyve already checked, but make sure your batteries are in good condition and all your grounds are clean.

Mike, is this just for rvs or does this include all trailers? Im in Ohio where the speed limit is 65 but Im right on the Pennsylvania border where the speed limit is 55. I am in pa quite a bit and have never ran 55 mph with my trailer in tow Either Ive been lucky all these years or this law only applies to rvs Im also assuming the minimum length they posted is truck and trailer combined? Not too many people pulling 40 and 50 foot trailers or rvs with a pick up! - - - Updated - - - So at one time you were running them together? Im just curious because the smarty does the boost fooling in the software and Im interested why you ran the boost fooler as well? Thanks, JR

Johnathan, do you run your boost fooler AND your smarty together?

Welcome to the family, it seems like you have a busy schedule planned out for your truck!I have virtually the same truck 98.5). I would first recomend gauges (primarily a fuel pressure gauge) and a quality lift pump first. As far as the rear door, take the panel off from the inside and check to make sure the cable is not broken for the top and bottom latches. If its ok, its probably the bottom latch frozen from lack of use. Spray some penetrant once or twice a day for a few days maybe youll get lucky and get it to free up. My former 2000 both rear doors were frozen solid i ended up taking a small pneumatic right angle grinder to the inside of the door and grinding the bolts out of the latch then opened the door and worked the latch off the hook. I had planned on replacing the lower latches but never got around to it and actually they were fine with out them. The rear doors are held in by a top latch as well plus the front door. Good luck and have fun and keep us posted :thumbup2:Check out Genos.com for an add on cup holder that mounts to the center console of your truck. A cheaper alternative than buying a new replacement for 200 bucks!

i dont know why I thought you had a 6.7, one look at your sig would tell me otherwise!Sounds like youve got a pretty good grip on your engine, Id be interested to see what you find out with your experiment.My 98.5 now has 90k miles on it and the oil still has a nice color to it when I change my oil at 8k mile intervals. This is the first diesel Ive seen that doesnt turn black the first week after an oil change.