diesel4life

We've got a few of them at work and they are all still on the original pump with over 10k hours. I've also got a couple of friends with lightly modded 12 valves and the mechanical pump does just fine for them too.

Me and the boys last summer at the sand bar.

Pay them bills Dorkweed!

I put a stick through my radiator over the summer. While I had the old radiator out and fan out I figured it was as good a time as any to - 1) remove the damper to do a thorough inspection, 2) pull the cover to check the KDP, and 3) change the front main seal that was just starting to get a little damp. You can have the damper and the front cover off in less than a half hour.

Dig the shower curtain!

It was just a 5 ton press, nothing excessive. I don't know that you could draw it down with the but without stretching the threads. How do you plan on separating them?

Yes, I used a press to put them back together. Watching the gauge, IIRC I saw brief spikes up to about 1000lbs before it would give, crank it up slowly and repeat until they were seated. I had a few mechanics tell me it couldn't/shouldnt be done, and I admittedly was a little apprehensive about doing it but I couldn't help myself and had to try it. I looked back at my records and it hasn't been as long as I thought, its been closer to 2 years and 35k miles, but everything has been great. I did ball joints at that time (reason I had to pull hubs in the first place), got an alignment, and have had no problems since. I rotate tires @ 7500 miles and they are always nice and straight.

Some areas have gotten 3 feet in roughly 24 hours. Heavy wet snow along with 70mph winds. Coastal flooding in parts of CT from high tide. NY is probably counting their blessings. http://www.weather.com/storms/winter/news/winter-storm-juno-snow-totals-wind-gusts A little Finnish humor https://pbs.twimg.com/media/B8Wo0HZIIAAt3Yv.jpg:large

[quote name="rancherman" post="104547" timestamp="1422418206" After diesel4life mentioned he relubed his after inadvertently separating his bearing, and said 'us with abs' could do it easily,

Is that on the square part of the flange? Hard to tell by the pictures.

I never mentioned anything about drilling oh wise one! We are talking greasing, not drilling if you have front abs. I've personally never owned one of these trucks with front abs, but many have claimed to be able to do this.

Hopefully she blows right over ya Russ, although I gotta say were all probably due for some winter weather. We've only had 42" of snow on the season, and all but maybe 4-6" is long gone. It's been quite mild so far.

I had the luxury of having my wheel bearings separated when I drilled and tapped mine but seeing what I saw I wouldn't be too concerned with trying it out. Of course, patience and common sense would be paramount on a project like this... I would drill most of the way through with the proper bit needed for the tap then stop before punching through, clean the hole out and tap it. Then I would proceed with a SMALLER bit. You don't need much of a hole at all to push grease through, and a smaller bit equals less shavings. I'd probably try the last little bit upside down or at least horizontal in a vice to prevent anything from falling in once I punched through. The last little bit would be an exercise of patience, drill a little, blow with compressed air, repeat. Then once I was through, I'd GENTLY probe the hole with one of the small pencil magnets I own to try to get any shavings that may still be there out. I had some pictures of my bearings separated and the process of drilling and tapping, but they are on my phone which is presently at the bottom of Lake Erie somewhere... You guys with front abs have it easy, I'd just pop the sensors out and either try something like you mentioned or perhaps a grease needle. http://www.sears.com/search=grease%20gun%20needle

Man what a bummer. Turn up the wick (new turbo, new injectors), and she gives up the ghost.

For the amount of money we can potentially dump into the front end of these trucks, you could just about go buy a beater car...lol. The front wheel bearings are one thing that hasn't been replaced on my truck yet. I inadvertently separated them trying to remove them about 3 years ago and there was very little grease in them. I drilled and tapped a grease fitting and used a good pipe dope to seal the threads, and can now grease them every few years. You can do the same thing with a needle tip on a grease gun since you have front abs.

Can I ask (ballpark figure) what you were quoted for a rebuild before it was determined your case was bad? This sounds like a great alternative to the box store rebuild scams, provided shipping both ways doesn't make it cost prohibitive. So far I've been fortunate and haven't had to deal with this issue but considering how many horror stories I've heard about reman pumps I'd probably opt for Borgesons new box they're building. They are an upgraded box over the original series with better internal valving, variable assist,bigger pistons and a bigger bearing bearing on the output shaft. They also improved the ratio for less turns lock to lock. They come with a pretty good warranty, I think 3 years/unlimited mileage if I remember correctly. BUT...they are pricey. Somewhere around $550..

Did you come up with anything? Your a long ways from home, best of luck and be safe.

Is this the same guy that RIPPED the auto from his former truck in favor of a 5 speed (and had just as much enthusiasm doing it) talking? LOL. Glad you like it. Still going strong on the auto I had built for my previous 2000 truck. (Pushing close to 100k miles now) While I don't like the gearing of a 4 speed auto, its hard to beat the performance of a properly built trans with any standard of equivalent gearing.

I'm sorry I do not. I've only checked for my truck (98), I will get on and see if I can find a set for the 00+ Dana 60.

Well, maybe I drew the short end of the stick on the whole Spicer quality gig, but every single one of my universal joints and ball joints were replaced by the 80k mark. EVERY single universal on the rear driveshaft was worn due to lack of lubrication. The car done joint and universal on the front driveshaft were the same, and my ball joints squeaked so loud every time the wheel turned or suspension flexed it drove me insane! I'll never forget those ball joints, I could pull in a parking lot and heads were turning from the squeaking and that was OVER the noise of the engine! Every single joint was a matter of lubrication (or a lack there of) that pushed me away from Spicer and into a greasable joint.... And this was a truck that led a VERY easy life hauling a small slide in camper throughout the NY mountains in the summer and nestled up in a shop during the winter months...very easy 67k miles before I got a hold of it...

No personal experience but have heard countless positive reviews on TDR, and generally speaking they are a very conservative group (compared to CF or CompD) I wish they would have been available when I replaced mine.

Not a good idea in humid climates to leave bare metal, but as long as the truck is parked indoors and won't be driven its doable. When you are ready to paint its best to get the panel good and warm to get the moisture off of it. Something like a heat gun or infrared heater. Just don't use a salamander heater (the ones that burn fuel oil) as the hydrocarbons will fisheye the paint. Get some MEK or xylene at a minimum and wipe everything down right before you paint. What are you going to be using?

I don't understand Spicers logic on making the uppers greasable but not the lowers. On the 00+ Dana 60's, the lower joint supports the entire weight of the front end while the upper is more or less there to hold alignment... My originals only lasted 70k before the lowers were toast so I elected not to go back to them. If mine go bad again, I'll most likely go with the Dynatrac Pro Steers. A bit pricey but they are fully rebuildable joints.

I find it very odd station owners have to treat the fuel as its going into the ground. Seems like this opens the door for a HUGE variance in fuel quality. I hung iron for 13 years for an outfit that also owned 2 gas stations. Over the years we did quite a bit of work around the gas stations, and as my interest in diesel piqued I would occasionally ask fuel related questions. Ron (the owner) is VERY picky about his fuels (owns a pretty substantial fleet of construction equipment and tractor trailers) and he never treated his fuel for cold weather properties. Said this was done at the terminal long before it ever reached the end destination. He did check for water at EVERY delivery and also did preventative biocide treatment. As I am sitting here I'm really racking my brain trying to remember who his supplier is, and as usual I'm coming up short.

When something comes up like that and shipping seems way out of whack I will usually call and talk to someone. 9 times out of 10 they will lower the charges to a much more reasonable rate, if not I tell them thanks but NO THANKS!