Yankneck696

1/64th is nothing. For future reference, most hardware stored have the drill bit for about $3-$4. They usually have the taps, too. Ed

To glue the cork gasket to the cover, I used Permatex #2. For the bolts, I used black RTV. Ed

I gooped up every bolt going into the plenum. I know some are open bottomed, not sure if all are. Ed

When I did mine, it was at the same time as my tappet cover gasket. I left the 4, 5, & 6 lines in place. I used Permatex #2 to glue the gasket with all of the bolts in place. Drilled out a piece of plywood that the bolts stuck through & weighted it down. Then, a couple hours later, I greased the bottom side of the gasket & slid it under the lines. Most important is to put sealant on the plenum bolts, as they are open to the intake & can cause a boost leak. Ed

That will still affect the E-brake. Michael would like the cruise control to work the EB function. Ed

Well, which flippin' pin? I am trying to tailor this somewhat to your manual trans..... Ed

As a guess, I would say that monthly, Michael gets paid about a pair of underwear, if lucky. Ed

Valkommen.... Enjoy the site & absorb the knowledge. Ed

AGP, we honestly expected more fallout from the confusion. It was like trying to save a life & then looking back at it to see what you did wrong. I am actually surprised that there haven't been more complaints as to how we went about it. Again, I was on the phone with Michael & convinced him to go about it that way. We started a BOD & after votes (That the average user does not see) it got changed. I do not see it as a personal attack at all. We sure confused the heck out of people for a while & there are still some things that might change. Getting vendors to shell out a measley $350 per year is like pulling railroad spikes with tweezers. For comparison, it is over $400 per MONTH to be a vendor on Cumminsforum. So, we are still trying to find paying vendors to keep the site self sustaining. Ed

Close it all the way, then just crack it enough to see the gauge read full pressure in about 2 seconds. Then, tighten the shaft nut a touch to keep it from changing. Hope it isn't the FRRP. Ed

If you are still on the FRRP, it may be that, as my 2nd replacement was all over the place. I haven't read through the whole thread. Ed

It's been a work in progress to keep the site open & functioning. It was under my insistance to charge a minimum of $10 to post. That was a stopgap to keep the site in place. A new server was bought to get rid of the lag. As an example, when 100 or more people were on, even Michael could not log on . So, we formed a Board of Directors. Voting ensued & changes were made yet again . We are working to get vendors on board to keep the site alive, as there were some months that the site was in the red (Not enough to sustain). I will claim all responsibility for demanding the $10 to post, as at the time, the site was going to be shut down. THere were over 2000 menbers & a touch over 200 of them were paying members. None of us could afford to have this resource removed from the internet, as just buying a Haynes manual for $30 that can tell you the code, but not how to diagnose it, was a more expensive option & not interactive. With the outpouring of monies, the new server was purchased. Keeping the new server is much more expensive than the last. Michael has spent the last month or so getting everything switched over. When you look at the thousands of hours he has spent on the site overall, he has been paid less than a Chinese garment worker. We have divided up some responsibilities on the site to remove some of the burden, but still most of it falls on Michael, as most of us are not website builders/managers. I bet that you will notice that the site is quite faster. Please bear with us, as this is still a work in progress. Ed

I don't have a dash, so can't help there. A high beam switch would work. Also, as we just discussed, I will look into the IVS in the APPS for engaging the EB with a defeat/arm switch, of course.

I "Think" that 2000+ need to use the resistor mod & not the jumper. I know my 2001 is loke that. I have heard of some 2000s that go either way. It should remove some codes after clearing with a scanner. Ed

I think I'll go with the 1st option, as this pressure sensor only does 0-100 psi at a Ratiometric reading from .5-4.5. Thank you very much. I now know the glitch I was having with my first controller. Ed

http://web.archive.org/web/20060311024301/http://www.vanaaken.com/usa/index.asp?pagename=v5r We currently offer two versions of van Aaken Smartbox™ for this model which are known as the van Aaken SmartBox™R and the van Aaken SmartBox™V5. Both these van Aaken SmartBoxes™ increase power by 60hp and torque by 159lbs ft at 2000rpm. The extra power is achieved by carefully increasing the fuel delivery and advancing the injection timing. Advancing the injection timing also serves to reduce Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGTs) which remain close to stock levels with the van Aaken SmartBox™ fitted. Both the van Aaken SmartBox™R and the van Aaken SmartBox™V5 have been specifically designed to be fitted (and removed) within minutes. They use high quality plugs to mate in with the original system. To install the van Aaken SmartBox™R, simply unplug the loom from the back of the Diesel injection pump and plug the van Aaken SmartBox™R in between the pump and the loom. It also has a connection into the map sensor. The van Aaken SmartBox™V5 has been designed for those who prefer not to unplug the loom from the back of the Diesel injection pump: it connects into the diagnostic plug and into the map sensor. A built in boost delimiter is included on both the van Aaken SmartBox™R and the van Aaken SmartBox™V5 for full adjustability. No engine seals are broken during the fitting of either the Aaken SmartBox™R or the van Aaken SmartBox™V5 and you do not have to cut wires or feed wires through the bulkhead unless you wish to fit an optional power level switch. In both cases, although fitting is simple, full easy to follow fitting instructions describing mounting and plugging the units in are supplied. Available for all Cummins 5.9L ISB engines as fitted to the 1998.5-2002 Dodge Ram 1998.5-2002 Dodge Ram Upgrade: van Aaken SmartBox™ V5 & R Power increase: +60hp Torque increase: +167 lb ft Key features Greatly improved Power and Torque Better Throttle response and acceleration Built in Boost De-Limiter Connects at Vehicle Diagnostic Plug or directly in to the Diesel injection pump loom Simple Plug-in-Plug-out fitting and removal Tuned for excellent driveability with maximum power Advanced Injection Timing helps give lower EGTs Ed

Man, that 20X4 screen is a tad larger than I thought... Parts are all in & I'll assemble tomorrow with a dual pressure regulator/gauge setup I grabbed from a restraunt soda system. I'll be able to simulate drive & boost for real with the senders. If all is well, I'll install it on the truck this weekend. I also have a great schematic for an automotive switching supply for 5VDC. It can be found in these schematics. Also there is the CAN driver setup in schematic form, too. Nick, I think you have this...LOL https://www.dropbox.com/s/1wdj8b3fzw8b7r2/Schematics.zip?dl=0 Ed

the way back machine.... http://web.archive.org/web/20050715000000*/http://vanaaken.com/

Qu.... Nah, I'll shut up... Ed

Even the Brazilian copies are very hardy. Had one in a bucket truck that just ran & ran. Ed

The deutz engine is an excellent engine. In Saudi Arabia, when my uncle was a crane operator in the 70s, when engines dies, all were replaced with the Deutz, as water cost more than diesel & they worked 24 hours a day. Once a day, they would open the shell & blow the dust out, check fluid levels & fire them right up. Downtime was 45 minutes per day. Water cooled engines lodt 4 hours waiting for the coolant temp to go down to a safe level. THey are also rather powerful for their weight/package size & pretty miserly on fuel.

Let me check if the alternator has an RPM output, as most diesels do. Ed

I should have everything by the end of the week. 2nd CAN shield showed up tonight. Ed

MPG should be 2.2K ohm I think. Have to look. As for checking the resistance of the ECT, the way it is wired, it gets the "Common" from the IAT. You need to measure from the signal wire of the ECT plug & common of the IAT plug. Ed