Yankneck696

Pricing is not decided yet, as I am getting quotes on connectors. I will be ordering everything by the 100 count so that there will always be units on the shelf & ready to ship.Yes, this will be fully compatible with any chip for our trucks. Ed

Well, when it's about 40* out, how long of local driving is it before you have good heat? When I moved from Floriduhh, we had -8* here in Utah & I surely wished I went whole hog. But, to each their own. If you research, one of the reasons attributed to "#53 Block failure" is not warming up the block fully before using full power, let alone power adders. Quadzilla's default "Warm up limit" is 140* before adding power if that function is enabled.Not trying to sell you on the product, just trying to inform, as anyone with the confidence & common hand tools can do it themselves.Ed

OK, IF THE PROGRAMMING IS ENABLED, when it reaches 28 degrees ambient , the high idle is engages When it reaches 13 degrees, the 3 cylinder high idle is engaged. What we are doing here is fooling the ECM to think that it is colder than it actually is. That way your truck warms up quicker for having heat & also not stressing the block when cold (53 block failures are somewhat attributed to this)When it is cold out, the ECM retards the ignition (due to oxides of nitrogen emissions) & you lose mileage.So, when you want to warm up the truck quicker, you engage high idle (also good for idling trucks to keep the temp up & alternator charging for Fire/EMS guys. When it's frigid, you engage the 3 cylinder high idle to warm it up even quicker. When it's cool to frigid out, you use the MPG fooler to keep your timing advanced to get better MPGs.This was all concieved & tested by Mopar1973Man. He gets all the credit for the process.Ed

I surely would make just the MPG fooler. But, if you would need that (which really only works when cold out), why not all 3 switches? Just asking.Ed

At the header of this page, click "Articles" then, "Engine", I believe. You will find a couple articles. I believe 1 supercedes the other.Ed

You can find in the "Articles" section. If you feel confident in building it, have at it. It is a great little setup. Note, the MPG fooler is really only effective in the colder weather. I am just going to produce a plug & play unit that's "Pretty" for people without the knowledge, experience or confidence. .Ed

Announcement: I will start producing a combination high idle/3 cyl high idle/MPG fooler box in a quality manner. This will not be a 1 time thing. I am going to order in bulk & produce probably 25 at a time. All plug & play with a small durable weatherproof connector to go through the firewall. ECT & IAT wiring will be OEM style plugs so that you do not have to cut & splice the harness. It'll be similar to the MAP sensor harness on a tuner or boost fooler:Unplug connector from sensor, plug in HI/MPG plug to sensor & plug in HI/MPG plug to truck's harness.I am trying to work with a well known diesel performance distributor, so that it will always be in stock for order.Also, a percentage WILL go towards maintaining Mopar 1973 man's site, as that is where it all started & He is the person who figured it all out.It will be about a month before I can truly gear up for this venture. This all has to be negotiated.I will do my best to find an attractive box or pod that can be mounted aestheticly & possibly lit switches to indicate what feature is engaged.Please give me some time to work this all out.YOU WILL NEED THE SOFTWARE IN YOUR ECM ENABLED IF IT IS NOT ALREADY.Full instructions will be available & supplied with the unit.Thank you,Ed

Announcement: I will start producing a combination high idle/3 cyl high idle/MPG fooler box in a quality manner. This will not be a 1 time thing. I am going to order in bulk & produce probably 25 at a time. All plug & play with a small durable weatherproof connector to go through the firewall. ECT & IAT wiring will be OEM style plugs so that you do not have to cut & splice the harness. It'll be similar to the MAP sensor harness on a tuner or boost fooler:Unplug connector from sensor, plug in HI/MPG plug to sensor & plug in HI/MPG plug to truck's harness.I am trying to work with a well known diesel performance distributor, so that it will always be in stock for order.Also, a percentage WILL go towards maintaining Mopar 1973 man's site, as that is where it all started & He is the person who figured it all out.It will be about a month before I can truly gear up for this venture. This all has to be negotiated.I will do my best to find an attractive box or pod that can be mounted aestheticly & possibly lit switches to indicate what feature is engaged.Please give me some time to work this all out.YOU WILL NEED THE SOFTWARE IN YOUR ECM ENABLED IF IT IS NOT ALREADY.Full instructions will be available & supplied with the unit.Thank you,Ed

I'll get with Jigabop on it. I have sent the installer to a few people with instructions. If there is success for the Ipod/pad system, it'll be there, too.Thank you,Ed

Quadzilla has to pay to have a free app posted on Itunes. I am guessing his contract was up for renewal.We are working on getting both installers cashed. Michael, when done, could we do a link to the :Download page here? I will ask Jig if it's alright.Ed

If you have an Iquad for an Apple device, DO not upgrade. You WILL lose all functionality of your Iquad. http://lifehacker.com/5977636/what-do-i-do-when-one-of-my-favorite-apps-gets-pulled-from-the-app-store That link MAY work. I suggest to do a physical backup of your Iquad App for safety to a PC pr Apple computer. I spent hours on the phone with Apple tech support. Here's what I posted about it on CF: OK. Apple tech support aknowledges the issue. They understand that when someone purchased the Iquad for $289 & can no longer download the App, they will not purchase an Iphone. When a person has the App on their existing Iphone, they will NO LONGER have the functionality of about $700 retail of their Adrenaline after an upgraded phone & that most Iquad users will NOT upgrade to a newer phone & that there are thousands of these devices out there, so potentially THOUSANDS of people that WILL NOT upgrade. If you have an Ios Iquad, go to Apple's website & lodge a complaint saying that you were thinking of upgrading & now cannot, due to the loss of around $700 for a free App. All I can do... Ed

Check if the HD or billet band strut were added, billet accumulator & servos, too. If so, go for it !!!! If not, you can find them pretty cheap & put them in yourself. Most likely they are already in there for a build like that. Do your regular fluid changes & band adjustments & ALWAYS keep an eye on transs temps when towing.Ed

Yeah, I left the one in the brass fitting of the heat exchanger. On the Dorman line ($24) on Ebay, the spot where the ball resided only had like a 3/16 hole for the fluid to flow. The #8 line was much bigger & would allow alot more flow. When I do my shift kit/servos/torque converter.rebuild, I will do the full flow mod & remove the check valve on the exchanger.Ed

I tried for hours to remove the little ball. I have every assortment of pic in the world & just couldn't get it out. That is why I just had a line made up. It cost a whopping $8.00 to be made from 3500PSI hose if I remember right. I am sure it also has better flow potential, too.Ed

If you get the Rockauto (Dorman) 1996ish line with the trans temp port, you MUST replace the flex line, as it has ANOTHER check valve in it. I believe I used #8 fittings at 8" in length made by a local diesel shop.Ed

Then remove the 4 bolts holding the FP bracket & drill a hole with a step bit. Clean out the shavings well. Use a pipe flange & screw & JB weld it on there (Or just weld a bung if you can). you'll be fine.Ed

Dripley, it is a stamped metal cover. It has the bump for the breather area, but the FP bracket is right in front of it. I thought about doing it, but didn't have the stuff. There is an inner sheet metal baffle. Didn't look too deep into it to see if I could get it done, but if you have a welder, knock out the baffle & use a liquid tight electrical fitting with conduit JB weld it in. Then reweld the baffle. But, honestly, I am not sure if the fuel return lines are in the way.... Investigate it when you are at it.Stuck the FRRP back together & figured what the hell, probably been like that a while & it runs. Only real screwup was forgetting to tighten the injection line nuts towards the engine as I was getting them all clamped in place. DAMN GLAD I HAVE A 3/4 Crowsfoot !!!!!!

OK, talked to Settler's Cove diesel repair in Kanab, UT. He told me that the barring tool is "A pain in the arse when working alone. Said to hold the alternator nut with a ratchet & use a breaker bar to loosen the VP gear nut. For torquing the nut, he told me to use a 15MM socket on the flywheel bolt on a breaker bar against the frame to tighten. I'm off to the races & will report back when done... Ed - - - Updated - - - And as the song goes, "One thing always leads to another: 1. My FRRP is leaking to the motor 2. The insulation plate that goes over the side plate is broken. Seeing if Pureflow will call back & if I can source another insilator plate locally Ed FRRP is the Factory Replacement Raptor Pump. New one on the way.Won't be here till Thursday at 6PM (when out UPS guy delivers). I'll ditch the insulation, as no one around has one in 1 piece. Yeah, I had to use a 2' pipe to break the IP gear nut loose & it didn't move a hair. Krazy glued the keyway in place. Going to clean off the side cover & side of the engine. Got to get a ride to pick up all of my new crush washers & needle valve/snubber. Off to the freaking races on the merry-go-round pony... Ed

Ahhh, the times I wish I had a standard.... Well, I guess I'll try to borrow or rent the barring tool from one of the diesel shops in town. They are good guys & I offered a certain something with switches (to be produced soon) for them to try out free.... Ed - - - Updated - - - Dumb question, can I use the alternator nut as a barring tool to loosen & tighten the VP gear nut? Ed

OK, my side cover is leaking about a quart a day. Have new gasket set. Also have a used VP44HO to put in(Thanks Ghostman). Have big line kit from stock filter with FP sender for my Quad & gear puller(Thanks Jkidd).Going to pull VP, all lines, filter canister & frrp. Then, I am going to pull the ECM & possibly space it out or at least plan it out for the future. Then, do the leaky side cover gasket.I will pull apart the FRRP & reseal it while i have it out. I also have a NAPA 1/2" 50 micron filter to put in before the FRRP.Here's my questions:1. I do not have the barring tool, so is there a redneck way for breaking the IP gear nut loose & torquing it without the barring tool?2. Cleaning the shaft is easy. Should I just use a rag with braklean on the inside of the gear?3.Should I BLUE locktite the IP gear nut if I cannot reliably get the needed torque?4. can I use my remote starter button on the starter with the key on (no assistant to crank over to bleed IP lines?I do have a new fuel filter, oil, oil filter, intake horn gasket (also tapping intake horn to 1/8NPT-27 since I have the bit & tap from my EGT install in 2 places & plugging them with brass plugs). I have new silicone adapter boots & reusing old clamps (replacing other side also if not needing heroine for my back when done).Anything anyone else can think of?I have read 3 different tutorials.Thank you,'Ed

https://www.element14.com/community/thread/3942 http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf PAGE `11 & 12 will allow you to understand it simply. Ed

We are trying to document the changes in the box for future users. If you could take some detailed pictures & post them here or PM me, it would help others in the future.Thank you,Ed

I'm from the south shore. The Kingdom of Cohasset to be specific.Ed

Well, your friend is just a Maineiac... LOL He'd be as proud of that as I am of Masshole.... Ed

My BHAF sounds wicked nizza cool.... (It's a Masshole thing, you wouldn't understand)Ed