Ilikeoldfords

A good plumber would also know how to work with copper and attach it in certain ways. Had some copper plumbing done in my old camper and they had to do some "welding" of the copper tubing/fittings. On a side note, your deck is going to get pretty expensive with all that copper. Hope someone doesnt come in the night and "help themselves" so to speak. Had a real problem with that when I lived in Yakima, WA. They would even cut whole wiring harnesses off peoples cars at night just to get the copper!!

Did that trailer not have any corner trim holding those corners together? If not, seems like it would be kind of hard to keep sealed and dry in there. When I did some water damage repair on the old camper I had, I was able to put something like this back on to keep every thing together. Then you just get the rubber insert to cover up your screw heads and make it look nice.

I agree. Just go aftermarket. Most of the time you can find good quality stuff for literally a fraction of the cost.

Wow that is quite the trip! Glad there were no issues. I would like to be able to road trip like that on a regular basis someday.

It is amazing that it gets so warm where you are there in ID. Missoula, MT only has summer highs in about the mid 90s I think. You would think being back in the hills it would be a bit cooler. That reminds me, I need to top off my A/C before summer hits. I have a super slow leak at the front compressor seal and havent ever had the time or ambition to change it.

Ya. Its a good thing that I am not a very big guy. I can barely get up in there to get that clip put back on. I just cant understand why it would pop off. The clip itself seems to be a little loose on that shaft so maybe I should just try to find on that is a hair smaller. Whenever it pops off next time I might just do that...

I have heard good things about MBRP systems. Supposedly they are pretty cheap and good quality.

The clip for the clutch master cylinder rod is fine. It is the retainer clip that goes on the shaft that the clutch and brake pedals hang from that is giving me problems. It is way up under the dash almost against the firewall and top part of the dash. Number 4 in that diagram I posted yesterday.

I though you could pack/replace the bearings on the 2wd trucks?? Maybe I am wrong there. As for the P/S fluid, some people use ATF+4. I think it calls for actual powersteering fluid though. Most universal power steering fluids will work. I am going to start running the Amsoil P/S fluid next week. It meets chrysler's specs. I dont remember what the exact spec number is though...

I always love a good long trip. Even a short one, I have taken trips that were over 2k in one weekend before. Its also very nice to have a long trip with no issues. Makes it a good one. Where did yall go if I may ask?

Answered my own question but I found a really good site for OEM parts. Check this out... http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=607735 Kind of spendy because it is the dealer but at least you know what you get will be good and fit right.

So that stupid clip fell out again. Does anyone know if there are bushings or something on that shaft that would cause it to move enough to pop that clip off? It is a PITA to get it back on and I would really like to fix the problem if there is one.

Ya I think you are right where you should be for EGT's. Idle is good and cruising is good.

Shouldnt be any more than like 2-3 hours I would imagine. I have never done a set myself but just guessing at the amount of time it would take. At a shop rate of $85 per hour I wouldnt think anymore than $300 total for the job. IF you supplied your own injectors of course.

That is about where mine is. If you are just cruising about 60-65, no hills or accelerating, I would bet that you are probably running about 650-700 degrees. Am I right? What does it idle at? What kind of boost are you making?

Before I got my Iphone I used that torq app a TON on my droid. Thing worked awesome like you said for many different vehicles. I havent found a suitable replacement program for my Iphone that doesnt cost like $50 per month.

I did think about that but at the moment I am going to have to cross that bridge when I come to it. Whenever I need to replace the brakes next I do plan on rebuilding the calipers though.

As soon as I have some extra coin I am going to nab up a scan gauge. Seems like it would be extremely handy. Mike, Is there any engine data that it cant read? Or can you basically see every sensor?

That is why I am getting them out of the way. I did the coolant right before winter hit and will get it flushed every 30k. The P/S and brake fluids are the only ones I have not changed so far so I am getting them done. Hopefully there isnt any damage already done because I havent done them yet.

It is a good thing I dont have a muffler otherwise I would probably need to repack these babies too!! https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSao7EYnegxQlSYUX1pn91dfJLJipSjEooBwiADFysbIntjcRaruA

It is actually a bunch of sub frames that hook together. That is why toyota now requires the truckers to use tire straps to secure them to the trucks instead of chains. The chains that used to just go to the frame doesnt have anything to go to now and what is there would end up being ripped out just bouncing down the road on the car haulers.

I agree with Ed. That simple trick of pointing it down hill vs uphill makes me think that there is a leak in your line somewhere. Even leaks in the return lines can and will cause you issues down the road. Start by checking the banjo fitting on the back of the head and the return line tee underneath the stock fuel filter canister.

Even if they do detune the new engines, you know darn well there will be performance tuners that come out in the near future. I agree that those cummins V8's are going to be to much power for the toyotas and nissans. Are those trucks really built well enough to handle that torque? I know that the tundra is not even a solid frame truck. The mileage will be awesome to have but I feel like this is going to turn into another situation like the for ecoboost trucks. Half tons pulling 35' camp trailers all over the place.

I agree with always wanting to check the pads and rotors at least every couple months. You would be surprised at how many people bring in rotors that look like that to the store here. I get at least a set or even 2 a month. Just crazy.

Thanks all for the input. I did think about using ATF but didnt realize that it was synthetic. I also would like to stick with the manufacturers recommendations and just use the P/S fluid. I can get the Amsoil through my store for cheaper than most people can buy the ATF so I am not concerned about cost.