Ilikeoldfords

I agree. Sounds like the kick down is adjusted to far. Not letting it actually get into the next gear.

My bad. I was thinking one way but it came out on the keyboard the other way. It has been one of those days!! :banghead:

That article actually did a very nice job of explaining why airliners fly at certain altitudes and how the jets work. Everyone is starting to lean towards foul play with the lost airliner now. Actually they are specifically looking toward the pilot/copilot. They have determined that the scheduled flight path was changed before the plane even took off. In this particular plane the pilot can change the flight plan in the computer but really only a pilot would know how. Someone deliberately changed the flight plan in the 'puter but there isnt really any way to figure out what it was changed to. Not sure how that works but it isnt looking good for the flight crew.

Yep. Column wires are pretty common to break. What about the ignition switch itself? If there is a way to check if you are getting power down to the starter when you turn the key I would be checking that. If not, gotta start working your way back up the line until you get power.

I let the truck warm up for a couple minutes after starting just to let the grids run a few times. Then I flip over to the mpg mode until the next time I shut it down. The only thing that fooler is doing is basically letting the computer think that it is 100 degrees F outside instead of whatever it actually is. This makes the computer advance the ignition timing to where it would be in the summer time. Thus, you gain the lost mileage back from the ignition timing being retarded for the cold air.

Indeed. I wasnt saying anything bad about your testing skills either. Those pressure numbers are just a bit to high for me. I dont really like to run anything higher than 21-22 myself just for piece of mind that I wont blow fuel past the front VP44 seal. If it were me, I would be looking toward a newer truck. I mean, whats a truck for anyway if not for useability. If the truck isnt suited well for what you use it for, time to either change the current one, or find one that is better suited for the task at hand. I say go for the newer truck. If nothing else, it will be really nice to have a crew cab. I also agree with trying to stick with the 6 speed or at least a decently built auto though. Not to mention no more VP44 to deal with.

I would also try setting the super chip back to the stock setting and totally removing it. I have heard of superchips causing very odd issues before. Have you had the tranny serviced lately?

Are you still running both the block and the intank pumps?? If so, thats why you have such high numbers.

I dont think there were any differences in appearance between the SO and HO. My HO doesnt specify anywhere like the valve cover or anything like that. All 6 speeds were the HO. Its interesting that the 5 speed trucks are rated at more weight than the 6 speeds though. I knew that the NV4500 was the stronger transmission but I didnt think it would change the rating.

Apart from Blue Chip's diagnostics, I dont really see how he can stay in the VP44 business with how low the rates are getting for a good rebuilt pump. And like said before, how is he selling them with used 'puters on the top if Bosch doesnt want any rebuilt pumps to have used 'puters?

One thing I would suggest maybe is making sure the new filter is full with fresh oil before spinning it on. Unless you do it already of course. I used to use baldwin filters and it was pretty close to the top if not spilling just a little bit.

One quick question, where would one look for info and to purchase a MITUSA pump? I am not really seeing a website for them.

I have known people to buy jasper engines and end up having to put gasket kits in them anyway because the first fluids in came right back out. On fresh rebuilds...

I kind of like the idea of keeping the eletric pump in line for priming bleeding air easier after filter changes. Makes it that much easier. Thanks for pointing out the MITUSA though. I hadnt heard of them. I guess I could always add a hobbs switch in later too. Thats not a problem.

JAG I think we are thinking of different push lock fittings. These are the ones I was talking about. I did my whole fuel system with them and they work great! No way for these babies to leak and they are good for 300 psi with no clamps needed!! https://www.google.com/search?q=Push+Lok+fittings&biw=1239&bih=557&tbm=isch&imgil=h05hZHp7vNMhgM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcRjdnhbdYp38HrmRODaCChkedIuEmvL7gNDKPcmfAME91a9lU9Q9A%253B601%253B480%253BUfejCVgN_WNWkM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cccme.org.cn%25252Fshop%25252Fpoolke%25252Findex.aspx&source=iu&usg=__eYQlr5EZWeqv7xSDNGIxI_i-zTk%3D&sa=X&ei=EG0kU-HqEKn_yQHm5ICwAQ&ved=0CGAQ9QEwBA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=h05hZHp7vNMhgM%253A%3BUfejCVgN_WNWkM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimage2.cccme.org.cn%252Fi_supply%252F2009%252F6%252F8%252F201012281402331345_174409718.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cccme.org.cn%252Fshop%252Fpoolke%252Findex.aspx%3B601%3B480

I have thought about that too. To be honest though, I want to get away from electric pumps all together. I know the proposed upcoming products are going to be awesome, but just the thought of not having to rely on electricity to keep the VP happy is a BIG plus for me. And the other thought I have, will the raptor keep going that long? I got mine right in the middle of the "trouble" period last spring and I am kind of amazing I have never had a problem with it.

Most of the time the metal under the dash is a good ground. It couldnt hurt to check though. You could try running a wire out to the neg post and see what happens.

Could also be an oxygen sensor, or even the MAF sensor. I would also start checking around the intake for leaks though. Dont forget to check the PCV hose to make sure its not cracked anywhere. The problem is on the newer gas engines there are so many vacuum lines and plastic fittings to break, it makes it hard to track down a leak. I wonder how hard it would be to get a vacuum diagram for that beast. On second though, maybe its just being a chevrolet product

Alrighty gang, I finally got my new switch installed last weekend. I figured I would go through some of the basics on how I did my install just so others can have an idea on how to do theirs. When you get your switch in the mail, it should have the following things included: -The actual switch with wiring and connectors -A small piece of 3/8's heavy walled plastic tubing -Three 1" screws If something is missing, DAP will take care of your needs. If not, I am sure Ed could lend a helping hand wherever needed. First thing I did was remove the dash bezel. It just has pop clips all over the place that hold it to the front of the dash and around the cluster, radio, HVAC controls, etc. BE CAREFUL pulling this baby off because for the most part, they are old and brittle. Mine cracked in a few different places the last couple times of pulling it off. Next, there are three screws holding the little cubby in place to the right of the radio. Remove them and pull the cubby out of the dash. Do whatever you want with it and the screws that were holding it in as they arent long enough to reuse when installing the switch. Now you can start feeding the cables though the dash. I just went toward the left a little ways and then down to the bottom edge of the knee bolster. I have some other accessory wiring running along that bottom edge so I just followed that as you can see in the pictures. As long as you stay right at the bottom edge of the bolster, you can keep going until you are right before the E-Brake pedal. Once you get the wiring fed through the dash for the most part, you can go ahead and actually mount the switch in the dash. Take that little piece of plastic tubing and using a razor knife, cut three 1/2" long pieces. Those are going to be spacers that the switch face will sit on. Without them the switch face would not fit flush out to the bezel. Use the longer screws and the same holes that the cubby was mounted with. This is the order that the screws will go through. Screw -> switch face -> plastic spacer -> dash Now head toward the firewall with the wiring. This is the tricky part as there is only one hole in the firewall to go through. If you are like me, You have a ton of other stuff running through that hole already. Not much room. You cant really reach that hole from the inside of the truck because of all the stuff they have mounted in the area, especially if you have a clutch pedal there too. I actually went out under the hood and fed a straightened metal hanger through to the inside of the cab. Then I just made a loop and the end and used it to pull the cable and connectors through the hole. Make sure you only pull through one connector at a time!!! If you try to do all four, you are likely to pull the wires out of them or even break the wiring. PULL LIGHTLY to get the connectors to slip through. The rest of the wiring is pretty straight forward. The shorter part of the connector harness will go to the Intake Air Temp sensor toward the back of the head on the engine. The longer connector will go to the Coolant Temp sensor on the front of the head. After you get everything plugged in, now you can go back through and tie everything up however you like it. I tried to follow as much existing harness as I could throughout the whole install just so I would have something to tie up to. As for wiring up the LED light on the switch, that is the other wire coming from the switch that doesnt have any connectors already on it. You will notice that there are a red and a black wire inside the protective covering. You can either run it over to the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash or another source of power. I would suggest you tap into somewhere that has constant power all the time. This way even if the truck is off, you will still know that the switch is on. Because I have some other gadgets in the cab, I have installed an auxillary fuse panel in the back of the glove box and thats where I tapped into power for the light. The black wire just needs to be grounded to the truck somewhere. I have attached a few pictures but I can take more if anyone wants a better view or more information on the install. I also wanted to say thank you to Ed and Mike and DAP for making these switches possible for us. It is a great investment and I think anyone with a 24v Cummins Turbo Diesel should have one.

Alright guys. I think I am going to start checking into getting a fuel boss in the next couple weeks. I will probably do the beans diesel sump in the tank as well. I am just getting tired of always wondering if my raptor 100 will "get me there". It is still rock steady with pressure so dont think it will go out soon, but you never really know. What is everyones thoughts on the fuel boss? Anything I need to watch out for as far as installation or parts? Thanks fam!

Most any parts store should have that style fitting. Try to make sure it's a push lock style barb and not just a regular barb fitting. Otherwise you will have to use clamps. The push lock fittings, you just push the hose on and you're done.

How does the super B compare to the he351cw? About the same? Size and flow wise I mean.

Not sure what the application is on this beast, but Ill bet the heater core and radiator are toast!! Being how black it is, could it be a possibility of oil being mixed into the coolant as well? Even just antifreeze I dont think would turn black like that, but I have been wrong many times before.

I just used a tee in the fuel line between the stock filter and VP. Works pretty slick but it would be kind of a pain for you. Have to cut the line...

Ya. It is probably the easiest, cheapest and most effective mod that I have done to date. If you havent already your radiatior could probably use a good rinse out too.