Ilikeoldfords

Personally I like the mobile version better than tapatalk anyway. Its almost easier to use and access stuff with I think. I could see where having tapatalk would be nice if you are on multiple forums because then all your forum stuff is in the same place. Just bookmark the mobile site on your device and you're good to go!

Before I got my Iphone I used that app on my droid. It was really nice for reading/clearing codes. I havent found a good app for Iphones yet that I can use with the same bluetooth ODBII adapter. They all want you to buy their own adapters and I dont really want to.

Ya I would probably check out the suspension under there. Lots of bushings to wear out like Tom said. Maybe you need to adjust the pressures? I am just throwing ideas out there so im not pointing in any one direction. Trailer tires should be lasting a lot longer than that.

I have decided that I will probably start slowing switching all of my fluids out to synthetics. Just that piece of mind of having a fluid that will instantly flow is very reassuring. I understand that others have gone over 1 million miles on dino oil but I dont think they were in extreme low temps every single day like a few of us are.

I have heard of a plugged vent causing a vacuum on the tank, but nothing that would cause pressure like that. I dont think there is supposed to be pressure in it though. Maybe try leaving the cap loose and driving around. See if there is a difference.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to watch? Are you building any pressure after the starter bump? As for the no start, is it trying to crank but wont fire? Or just no crank at all?

This might be out of the question, but are your trailer axles aligned correctly? They may have come from the factory misaligned but thats the only thing I can think of that would go through tires like that.

I think that is the one that runs on compressed air instead of any actual fuel. Still pretty awesome though. Or does it say it runs on diesel?

I am not concerned with running the fluids all the way to the gauge in my truck. I have needle valves on all of the lines before they go into the cab as a safety precaution. If you think about it, big rigs and tractors/equipment almost always use mechanical gauges just because of the longevity. How many of the almost 2 dozen gauges in each truck do you think are being used with isolators? Probably none. I am just going off of all of the big rigs my dad has owned/driven over the years. If it was that big of an issue to have gauges fail and pump liquids into the cab, I am fairly certain that truckers would have gone away from straight mechanical gauges a long time ago. Just my .02 and IMHO of course.

I would lean towards an injector hanging up. I had one that was stuck mostly open and it would smoke white until it warmed up. Pull them and have them pop/flow tested. Might just be a good time for a little upgrade while you are at it

Mike, had a question for ya concerning edge tuners. I read somewhere a long time ago that there was some kind of a bug in the software. If you didnt have all of the main levels set with the same sublevel, it would mess things up? Internet myth? Does it really matter if you say, have level 4 set with a sublevel of 5 but you run level 5 with a sublevel 3? I dont know if I explained it clear enough but I was just wondering if there was such a problem with the comps.

The first number is the main level. Then the sublevel. 5x3 is a main level of 5 and a sublevel of 3. Not sure about which number it is on the screen cause the comp doesnt have one.

Exactly. That is why my dad has been driving company trucks for a couple years. It is much easier on a person to go into the shop and put the bill on someone else's tab instead of your own. This is especially true with how fuel prices are now too. The only reason he would go back to owner/operating is because of the ridiculous big brother systems. They know exactly how fast he is going at whatever RPM the truck is at at any given time. They now can even tell if he is wearing a seat belt at any given time.

Oh man. Central Washington is my home country. Seen lots of big cats over the years. I was always brought up around guns and proud to say that I could save someone if I had to. I just wish some people would think about something before either making it a law or repealing one. Its like they are completely ignorant to anything except their own front yard downtown. They have absolutely no clue as to what actually goes on in the area that they make laws for.

As long as you can reach it, you could probably get away without having to see the lug. Just bring a couple different sized wrenches with ya so you dont have to crawl back out of wherever you are. I havent looked at a starter on a 3rd gen before but the lug would be fairly easy to feel on a second gen.

Running low on hours is a real problem now days. Cant cheat your log books anymore with the big brother systems they have on most all trucks. Any company that has a significant fleet is running them. My dad has been driving for almost 30 years now, owned his own trucks/company, now he is driving a company truck. He is really contemplating getting back into his own truck so people arent breathing down his neck and watching every single move he makes.

My DAP pump has been going strong for about a year. I have over 15,000 miles on it with no problems to speak of. They do use new computers on their pumps but I believe industrial injection is actually rebuilds the injection pumps for DAP. As for how they can get you such a good deal, I am sure it all depends on the quantity they sell. I am sure they sell a ton of pumps so they get a good deal from their suppliers. Its all supply and demand. Industrial injection makes really good products too, if you were concerned. (I am not totally sure if industrial injection is who actually rebuilds the pumps for DAP or not, just though I saw that they did somewhere)

Does it crank but not start? Or does it just not crank at all? I would maybe check/clean the grounds for the electrical system. Both intake relays having issues makes me think that maybe they arent getting a good ground. Not sure about the VP44 code though.

Learn something new every day I guess. Didnt realize the lp pumped while cranking. Thanks for the info. Definitely go with DAP. Good people and good prices. I am using a VP from them and its been great.

The lift pump should prime for about a second when you first turn the key on. It will not run while you are cranking but should run continuously after the truck has started. I am not sure what the specs are for the stock lift pumps to be honest. Bosch does not want anything less than 10psi getting to the injection pump though. Anything less than 10 is damaging and as you can see, results in taking the injection pump out. Most reman injection pumps need at least 10psi or it will void the rebuild warranty, at least thats how DAP is. I would strongly suggest going with a LP/VP44 combo from somewhere like DAP. Usually they have really good combo deals and that way you wont have to worry about the lift pump system failing on a new injection pump.

As soon as I get mine in the mail I will go about installing it. I will do a write up with pics and everything. It will probably be next weekend or so. Should be warmer anyway...

I bought a Raptor 100 about 1 year ago and still going strong. Its always been frame mounted with a BF1212 f/w separator on it though so maybe that helped. I am crossing my fingers that it stays good until this summer when I can save up for a fuel boss. Then just use it for a prime pump. Ever since I heard about the problems starting I have been scared to go anywhere with mine but it just keeps going.

Just ordered mine today. Pretty excited for it! I splurged for the brushed aluminum cubby mount so I should see it in a few days. Ed, are you still looking for people to write up the installs or are you good on that front?

Was there ever an oiled type of air filter on that truck? Thats almost exactly how my turbo looked when I got my truck. They had been using a KN style air filter that you oil every once in a while and the turbo had pulled the oil through the filter. Otherwise, looks like the seals inside the turbo might be leaking on ya. As for the chipped fin, the only thing I can think of is something must have gotten through the filter and sucked into the turbo. Not really any way to tell exactly what happened there.

IMHO I would look for a different truck. Everything this one will take to get running again plus the cosmetic damage would turn me away from it personally. Find one that was someone's baby, not just someone's work truck. You will be much happier in the end. Welcome to the fam and I hope to see ya around!!