Ilikeoldfords

For what you are doing, I would check out Snowdog plows. They are very light and very durable. As far as I know they are pretty decently priced. They are originally made by Buyers. Good company.

I could maybe see some extra stress on the T case but that could not have much in any effect on the shifter. My truck has 35" tires and has for the last 10 years. Still running all the stock front suspension and steering with absolutely no issues. The only thing that has been replaced was the track bar but that is a common problem for trucks with stock tires too. I just don't buy into all the hype about larger tires causing very many issues. I AM still running the stock rims and that probably helps. My truck is over 215,000 miles by the way.

Thanks guys. I think you were right about it just being to low of rpm's. In the higher gears I just make sure I am up above 1500 rpm's before I try any acceleration. No more vibration!! I just never really had this problem with the old clutch. I took a trip yesterday of about 1200 miles (yes, 1200) and everything seems to be working fine. I really enjoy this new clutch. Shifts great!!! Thanks everyone for the thoughts on this. Much appreciated!!

Would that be all the time or only in 4WD? Seems like if that were the cause you would be able to feel it all the time, not just in 4WD.

Ok. Whatever clutch was in there before this one had a ridiculous pressure plate so maybe being a this is a lighter pressure plate I can feel it now. Thanks for the thoughts. Much appreciated.

I got my truck for the Cummins and NV5600 combo. I dont really care for the dodge but I dont hate it. If I had my choice, I think I would really like the same combo in a Ford. I think the Fords just hold up a lot better over time.

I should have explained it better. It does not do it accelerating slowly but maybe about 50% throttle is when I feel it good. I guess it could be called moderate acceleration.

I did get the valair single disc with organic lining. It was a 3400 lb pressure plate and should be good for 400hp. I never thought about it maybe the clutch slipping. It doesnt rev up or anything, it just has a fast vibration for a few seconds then it goes away. I havent gotten to hard on it yet because I heard you were supposed to use low power to break in the new clutch for the first couple hundred miles. Should I get on it and see if it will fully slip maybe? It does chatter on take off a little bit but it clears up right away.

Ok guys. Got the clutch changed out and what a difference!!!! I dont know what clutch was in it before but this new valair is almost as easy to disengage as my wife's honda was! The old one was tougher to push in than my dads big rigs. It shifts perfectly now, almost no delay between shifts and it grabs quick. It does chatter a little bit but just dont slip it and you will be good. Now, after I picked it up from the shop I noticed that in the higher gears (4,5,6) if I try to accelerate from about 1100-1300 rpms, there is a hard fast vibration coming from the mid to rear of the truck. It goes away as soon as you get up above about 1600 rpms. It does not do if you are accelerating slowly at all. You can hear and feel the vibration. I had to get right back to work yesterday otherwise I would have taken it right back. I will crawl around underneath tonight and see if I can find anything loose but does anything come to mind for anyone?? I was kind of thinking maybe the carrier bearing is still loose or something like that.

I am crossing my fingers about my raptor. I installed about 1 year ago with no issues to date. It has always been frame mounted with a BF1212 filter before it though so maybe that is whats saving it. I dont even have the pressure fluctuation issues like some people do.

You can buy them from DAP. I think they run about $150. Not really anything to test anymore as they are a full time selling product now.

The other thing is make sure you dont let your foot even touch the clutch pedal unless you are stopped or shifting. Even the slightest pressure can cause the clutch to slowly slip and burn it up in short order. I am wondering if that is what happened to D-LUX. Maybe he rests his foot on the pedal going down the road? That is a very short life span for a clutch.

Just picked up a Valair single disc organic clutch (everything minus the flywheel) for about $365 from DAP. Came with free shipping and everything. Probably the best bang for your buck.

I'm a young buck. Turning 21 next month but I feel like I am not part of the common young people group in the country. Since I turned 16 I have been legally employed somewhere. I lived in the country north of Yakima, WA and I know what it's like to be outside all the time. I never watched tv, I didn't even play sports at school because I was either working or going to tech school. I will admit I don't have the life experience that most everyone else here does but I really feel like I have bested the current predicament that most of the youth are in. I do have to say, the world of employment for anyone under 18 years old is almost nonexistent for anywhere but ND. I think insurance plays a huge role there but in WA I couldn't even get a job washing cars at a dealership because I wasn't 18. That might be part of the problem is people don't want to hire kids, so the kids don't do anything, so they won't go look for jobs. It's a vicious cycle.

I saw some race trucks that had air starters on them. They were also running 2 stroke Detroit model 92's. Pretty neat little trucks. I agree it would be cool to have one but like said, I would not want to rely on just that to get me going somewhere.

People have done the 4x4 hubs. It takes a lot of work though. They are pressed together so unless you have the equipment to handle that you just have to replace them as a unit.

If you guys are talking about the fuel return line that comes from the back of the head, on mine it's a steel line that comes off in a banjo fitting. I have heard that banjo can start leaking. You just need to change out the copper seal washers and you're good to go.

I did the smarty rental from DAP and it worked out very smoothly. Just for anyone else who is looking at getting the computer flash.

I have heard of some weird things happening with the ABS pump. I think rancherman had some issues a while back about it just running continuously on its own. The module can go bad causing these issues I think. You might unplug the ABS module and see if the noise goes away. If it does, then you know something is making the ABS pump run for some reason. We can then go from there and track down the issue.

If you mean the intercooler, than yes you really should clean it out. If there is oil in it, there is a chance of it causing a run away engine. If it is just a little damp then I wouldnt really worry about it but if there is actual oil, needs cleaned. You wouldnt want a run away on your fresh rebuild.

A couple years ago my local high school purchased a table saw like that. Some of the more "intelligent" students liked to try it out on a regular basis because they were tough. The school got tired of buying the replacement stops and blades for the saw because so many people were sticking there fingers and hot dogs and everything else into it because it was so cool. They eventually sold the saw because the dumb kids wasted so many blades on it. Stupid kids.

I would lean toward a bad ground as well. I also have seen issues with the stock trailer wiring harness. It can get picky at times and even let voltage jump to other wires in the harness. It can cause some very weird problems. Try following the trailer harness and look for spots that are wore through. Also check the trailer plug on the back, they can short out internally.

Do you just hear the pulsing?? Or do you actually feel a pulsing as well? If you are just hearing it then I would pretty much rule out the warped rotor idea. You might try checking the codes with a good scanner. Not all of the codes will turn on the dash light for the ABS or the regular check engine light. There might be a code hiding in there that would tell you something.

Ya I have always had older vehicles before this one. When the clip first fell out, I was very nervous because I hadnt ever seen anything like that under a dash before. I still dont understand why after all this time it would randomly fall off. They are really stiff and take a bit to get back on. I know there are bushings on that pivot shaft for the pedals to rotate on, maybe they are wore out? Maybe its letting things move around a bit and it was just enough to push that clip off. Maybe I will get back under there and see if there is any play in that shaft and pedals.

I am also not quite understanding how a steel plate could rupture?? Unless the early ones were in fact just plastic of some sort?