Ilikeoldfords

That looks like a wheel spacer. Was that truck ever in an accident? Sometimes if the vehicle was wrecked I have seen where they will put a wheel spacer on one side to make the wheels look more even if the body or suspension is out of wack. I would not put that ring back on or I might get a matching on for the other side.

I would lean towards maybe some broken wires in the column. Do you tilt it up and down a lot? Column wires are very common to break there where an ignition switch isnt all that common. I also say this because some stuff works and some of it doesnt. If it were the ignition switch I would assume that most if not all things probably wouldnt work.

I would assume that they wouldnt have hardly any issues on our 2nd gens because we dont have any emissions gear. Seems like most all turbo issues on the newer trucks are caused by the emissions stuff somehow.

So what would the reason be to have a temp sensor in the VP? Just for monitoring?

Wow. Where has that guy been all this time??? And he rebuilds pumps?? Some people...

That would make sense. I figured the fuel heater just came on with the grid heaters.

If it were me I would find the right size heat shrink tubing. They make it in every possible size known to man now. I think I stock it at my store from 1/8 all the way up to about 3 inches across before its shrunk down. That will probably be your best bet for sealing. They also make a paint on electrical tape/sealant that I have heard works pretty good.

I think they only hang off the tank about 1.5-2 inches. Unless you are offroading a lot I wouldnt worry about it to much.

Wow. I thought it wouldve made better mileage with all the deletes like that.

Where is the fuel temp sensors on these trucks? Didnt realize there even was one. What would the computer use that value for?

You drill a hole in the bottom of the tank and it mounts there. No straw, no tubes, just a hole in the bottom of the tank. Thats why you can literally run the thing dry with the sump. Here is the install video: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCgQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DRfFM51j5rJU&ei=7zAzU5e3DYnOyAH8zIHYBw&usg=AFQjCNEwV1ZO3dJyljYAI8hix7IBJLahbQ

As for pressure drops, I am running 3/8's line from the top of the tank to the VP. All the banjo fittings are gone. The only thing is it is still running through the stock tank module (no in tank pump of course) and I see about a 5 psi drop from idle to WOT. The 3/8's line could have something to do with it but I am also suspecting the tank module is restricting the pressures a bit as well. Thats why I am going to try the sump. I have had that 5 psi drop ever since I installed the raptor brand new. Changed both fuel filters with no improvement.

If it were me I would either go for a liberty tank module or a tank sump. I am personally going to do the sump so I dont even need to access the top of the tank at all. Check out the Beans Diesel Sump. They had a great install video on their site. Very simple and you never have to touch the top of the tank.

Usually with either a scan gauge or some programmer that has a live data monitor.

Idle usually doesnt change much for EGT's between injectors. If you could barely get up to 1100 degrees at WOT then I would safely say that you have stock injectors. Even just with my 40hp I can reach 1200 at WOT pretty easily.

Sounds fairly normal to me. Idle might be a little high but maybe not. Thats about where mine runs with the 40hp injectors. All sounds good to me!!

Mine does exactly what the OP says his is doing. 40 psi all the time and I have a code of P0522 I believe to go with it. I think thats the low voltage code for the oil pressure sensor. I have a mechanical gauge for oil pressure anyway so I havent bothered with replacing the stock sensor. I would bet that it is the sensor that is bad on yours OP.

Alright guys. Decided to hold off on the mechanical pump for now. I did go ahead and order a Beans Diesel Sump though. Should let the raptor breath a little better at least. I figure it this way: If the raptor was gonna go out, I probably would have had issues with it already. Its over a year old and 20,000 miles on it just about. I have a good spin on prefilter before it and it is frame mounted too. Thanks for all the input gentlemen. If I come across a good deal on a used mechanical pump in the future I might gobble it up but for now I am gonna hold off.

You can kind of see some dry rot in the good tire next to the blown one. Does look like time to throw some new ones on there. Never fun to blow tires!! We blew the entire dually fender off my dads '89 chevy one time. Had the camper on and going down the freeway. Not good.

Was it just ran to hot? To hot and the vains were deformed? Or would the motor have problems before the turbo would? Just throwing an idea out there.

You may also check the shocks. I had an old ford truck and the front shocks were wore out. Going down the highway between 50 and 62 mph the front end would vibrate pretty bad. Never felt it in the wheel or anything, the front end just vibrated pretty rough. Felt that in the floor board too.

Commercial drivers need to follow DOT policies and fill out their log books accordingly. I did about 30 hours straight one drive. Went from Yakima, WA to Redding, CA and back. Made a detour out to the ocean on the way back up. All for fun I might add

Unless you are running some huge injectors, or you have a boost leak, egt's should just about never be a problem. I dont notice much if any difference in egt's running the fooler vs. no fooler.

If should only be affected for about the first 5 minutes of the engine running. My grids stop cycling about 5 minutes after I start the truck then the voltage (and fuel pressure) stay rock steady.

I havent seen one installed there before. Looks good! You might do a short write up about your install over in the forum board called High Idle Kit I believe. You will see a few of us have posted write ups about different installs. Welcome to the forum by the way!!