Ilikeoldfords

On the new hpfp you can adjust the pressure and even hook a boost line to it for on demand power. Mine is at least 6-7 years old so it doesn't. I will be looking into gettin a filter base and build my own. The company I work for is a Baldwin dealer:)

Not to mention it cakes the inside of the turbo with dirt and oil. At least, that's what mine did. I had the AFE but its the same thing. Go for a bhaf. Way better.

Cool. If there is enough oil in the intake, it will cause a runaway. Don't want that. I would highly reccommend that vent tube fix. It would probably help a lot.

I was curious how you would go about mounting this filter. It seems like a great idea and I would like to do it. I have also been looking at getting a new pump for a while. I have been talking about it over in the fuel pressure topic, but this seems like a better place. I have a FASS hpfp already mounted under the bed on the frame. I also have a 3/8 big line kit from tank to VP. I am not sure if there is a draw straw or not. I bought the truck with this set up. Got a gauge on it a while back and am not happy with the pressures. Would I be better to just get another FASS to go in its place? Would a rapter or some other pump hook up and install similarly to how my FASS is now?

Are you still running with a stock vent tube set up? If so, it is very common for oil to leak here. There are fixes to this situation and it should really be addressed. If not, your radiator and intercooler can get really gummed up on the outside and cause overheating issues. Mike, the site owner has a very cheap and easy way of getting rid of this problem. It is also normal to have a little bit of smoke coming out. Welcome to the forum by the way!! - - - Updated - - - Here is that vent tube fix. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod

As far as I know, you should check for end shaft play. It should not move in or out at all. I'm not sure, but I don't think it's supposed to move side to side at all either. I would pull the turbo off just to see what the exhaust side looks like. See if it is leaking back there. Someone else might jump in and give more suggestions too.

Sounds like a good idea. I already have a frame mounted fass hpfp. I also have a 3/8 big line kit from tank to vp. I think the pump is just getting weak because it holds steady pressure, it's just a bit low. 16 at idle and 13 at cruise. It does drop to about 9 at WOT. All I need is to replace the pump. I don't really need all the accessories and stuff for it.

Ok. I am taking it in to a trusted guy this week to have some other work done so I will talk to him about it. There is also an injection shop in town I can go talk to. Thanks for all the help, seriously. I will get back with what I find out.

So I am going to replace the lift pump. I am looking at the rapter frrp. I know this is a constant battle, but what would you guys suggest? Which pump would be the best for me at a reasonable price? I am not looking for huge power. Having some rv275's installed this week. What do you guys think?

I have been noticing a little but of a surge while cruising. Not enough to feel but enough to hear it in the engine. Where would I look on the vp to see if it a reman?

I totally unhooked the comp, didn't have any change or effect. I also put a 3.3 resister in for 123* and that didn't have any effect either. Kinda pointing towards more serious problems at this point.

I dont know where you got that sender at, but I think Geno's has them for I wanna say around $90 or so. Just sayin...

HAHA ^^^ I did notice that when I was running my AFE stage one cold air intake, the turbo was very loud. Almost unbearable!! I just got a Baldwin BHAF and it actually quieted down the turbo a lot. At first I thought the turbo was stuck or something until I looked at the gauge. That just shows the difference in filter quality between an "oiled" filter and a real filter I guess.

I have the same problem with mine. The smoke does look white most of the time, but smell it. I had someone start it up for me and the smoke had a real heavy oil smell to it. I also had the cummins shop in town test the blow by and they said my rings were in check. I am almost certain its the turbo.

Another thing I have noticed since all of this started... If I cruise for any extended period of time using cruise control, the timing seems to slowly fix itself back to what it use to be at all the time. The motor gets quieter and quieter until it feels and sounds completely normal. As soon as I take it off cruise, the timing goes out of wack and it gets really noisy again. By "noisy", I mean it sounds almost like if you go out and start the truck on a cold morning, and just start driving it down the road without letting it warmup at all. It just seems really extra rattly. I still have good oil pressure, and it is getting up to about 190* just like normal. The only codes I have are a P1693 and a P0522. This was checked with the key trick. I am lost as to what is going on now. Could my ECM be on the way out? I have never heard of anything like this happening before....

Ya I bet they do. Had it reflashed but it didn't seem to change anything. It just sounds like the timing is way off. Valves are really noisy still. After I get on it hard it cleans up for a minute or so, then it goes back to being noisy. This is with comp on or off. Not sure what to do now?? Can't possibly need a new ECM do I???

This topic can be considered closed now. I don't think I can close it over the forum app. Thank you again.

Ooh boy. Ok. Well I made it home last night at least. I will start checking into getting a reflash done. Thanks - - - Updated - - - So went to the dealer today. They are only going to charge an hour's labor time for the re flash. I thought it was going to be a lot more than that. They also said that it may or may not work. Should I be worried about that? Im sorry I had to use the 911 area. I just didnt want to mess my truck up or anything and I had to drive home over the cascades last night. Thank you so much for all the help and wisdom!!

Hey guys. I'm at my uncles this weekend and he says he had a programmer that changes tire sizes. I have been wanting to do that for a bit so I said sure. I didn't even think it would try to tune my truck also. I have my comp box in the truck as well. I set the tire size and went for a drive. It felt like the the timing was all over the place!!!! I turned the comp off and it seemed to smoothen out but I have a serious power loss now. I tried to get back in with the other programmer to erase all its settings and now it won't recognize the truck. It says that it's not the original vehicle. This programmer is a smart chips "micro max" tuner. Obd II plug in. I have to drive 200 miles tonight!!! Any have an idea??? Thank you!!

Found a blown fuse. Pyro works great now. Thanks tons!!!

Ok that makes me feel better about the probes. I will check the power and ground today. Maybe I bumped it or something during the install.

Hi everyone. I replaced my pillar gauges yesterday with all new isspro ev series gauges. My old ones still worked but they were all miss-matched. Anyway, I had an auto meter pyro before. I hooked the new pyro up just like the old one was and according to the instructions. I did just use the same thermo probe though. I have no reading at all on the gauge. Does anyone know if I need a new probe? Or what the problem might be? Thanks!!!

Ok I will do that. Where should my clutch pedal be adjusted to? The valair is adjustable. I though maybe re adjusting would help.

I have a question about my NV5600 as well. Over the past few months my tranny has been getting a little harder to shift. It doesnt slide into gear as easily anymore. I figured the stock hydro's were on their way out with 200,000 miles on em. I replaced them with Valair hydros's from DAP. It helped a bit, but it is still catching before it actually slips into gear. I always use the clutch fully when I shift. Would servicing the fluid help my situation at all? I dont have the money to be building a transmission right now and I need to make it last as long as possible. I have the problem in all gears BTW. Thank you in advance:smart:

I got out and drove the truck to work today. Changing that filter did help a bit. It idles a little higher now, 16-17. It cruises at around 14, and it only drops to 11-12 at WOT. Its some improvement but still a bit low I think. I am going to change the stock filter next and see what happens then.