oldbeek

The air line from the manifold that supplies boost pressure to the diaphragm controlling the fuel pin on the injection pump is just pressed into the housing. Mine just fell out while I was modifying the pump. I reset it with lock tight. That loose line could cause the fuel pin to lag and cause low power. Just a thought.

The shop that did my mod has a mill. they drilled the passage slightly larger than the width of the channel. Then made a aluminum pin that blocked the passage. Over kill probably. The procedure is detailed in the Cummins Forum. I printed the Cummins forum article and took it to the trans shop. They did it reluctantly. Yes it can break thing if used improperly. I have already failed to switch it out before shifting up. Up shift with a locked converter is very hard.

I also installed a Raptor universal from XDP. Am I supposed to have a relay between battery and the Raptor being triggered by the stock dodge wiring? It works OK being driven by the stock loom but I do not want to damage anything.

Just the opposite experience. Doing a HX35 turbo mod and needed the gasket between the ex outlet and the wastegate. A Holset turbo item. After looking everywhere, even turbo rebuilders, I called Cummins West. Got a lady in parts that knew she had to look in the Holset cat. for the part. Found it at the San Leandro Cummins west and had it to me in two days.

My temp sender is in the line going to the cooler. ( Hottest oil in the system) I removed the factory sender and installed the sender in that port. My trans shop ( Valco, in Littlerock) plugged a port in the valve body plus the switch. Outside temp was also 100f

As a fleet manager, I found synthetics in gear boxes and differentials had a much higher pay back (better mileage and durability) than synthetic in the engine. Synthetic grease in heavy equipment also pays for itself. I now run synthetic everywhere except the engine. I don't use it in my engine because I don't run enough miles to justify it.

Put my 2001, 47re with 2nd gear lock up to the test this past weekend. My rig with 5r weighs 17,600 lb. I navigated parts of the 6% Grapevine canyon on I-5. The trans worked flawlessly. On grades I would lock into 2nd push her up to 2000 rpm and flip the torque converter lockup switch. The oil would heat to 210f while pushing up to 2000rpm. After lockup trans oil cooled to 180, eng temp, and stay there. The grade and load took all the 235hp at 2700rpm I had with skinny pedal flat on the floor. Going down same grades decelerating, I had the same result. Just love that mod. Strongly endorse the 2nd gear lock up mod.-

Looking at the pic,contact is before the fuel tank. Do you have a aftermarket fuel pump mounted to the frame at point of contact?

I bought 4.10 because this cab and chassis was a flat bed truck to haul 6,000lbs of bee hives and a 1000 lb crane. Many times we would drive back into wilderness on forest service roads. (Back to the power mod). I installed a 3200 rpm gov spring and the BD fuel pin. Advanced 1/8 inch on timing and 1/2 turn on star wheel. HX35 turbo with waste gate locked shut. It is now a barn burner. A little smoke at first pedal mash. Will hook up that 12,000 lb 5r and try a hill to see what kind of boost I get with waste gate locked shut and EG temps.

Try doing the fuel pump priming procedure. Rock the key with no start. Then start it and see what it does. Just sounds like air in the fuel at start??

Speedo bounces around even in park??? Where to start?? Speedo doesn't work while traveling (bounces around) odometer seams to work ok.This is on a 92

Cummins had it but they had to go into the Holset turbo breakdown to find it. Geno's had the other gskts but not the turbo elbow gasket. Dodge didn't show it either. Thanks for the replys

I can find all the normal gaskets, turbo to manifold, oil out, oil in, boost out ect. The gasket I can not find for the hx35 is right next to the waste gate and before the cast elbow that attaches to the exhaust pipe. It has an irregular shape with 5 bolts. Exterior measurements of 6 X 4.5

The cummins bulletin that comes with the seal page 3 fig 7 says to put the dust lip side away from the vac pump. Good point about the vacuum. So why does the oil want to blow out of the vac pump?

The vacuum pump is so hard to RxR I feel a need to inform all of a glitch I found in the Cummins Forum pictorial and instructions. The seal directions and picture of the seal coming out are WRONG! They show and explain that the dust seal side of the seal faces the vac pump. The cummins instructions say that the spring side of the seal should face the vac pump. The spring side of the seal always faces the area to be sealed.

Had a friend build my trans. I think he felt he owed me a bunch of payback. He has a one man state of the art converter shop and his converter is called Mojave Green. All billet, Gorend stator, stall speed is 1100, triple disk. His trans shop did the R&R and rebuilt my 165k 47re with all the trick stuff with a Transgo VB kit and all new electrical. Also did the VB mod to get 2nd gear lock up. I did the switch. All this for $2300.00 When I managed a fleet, he did all my trans work. I recently asked why he didn't advertise and he said he already had to much work.

Sounds like the trans oil heat exchanger but that is on the opposite side of the block.

Larry b's kit has all that is needed except the timing case gskt. for $ 8.95. The oring in the cummins kit is wrong for the early 3 pc pumps. Too small in circumference and to large in cross section. After stretched into place it will work, BUT you are not supposed to stretch an o-ring. Used it anyway. The main lip of the seal is supposed to face the area you are trying to seal. My seal lip was faceing the power steering pump. Not the vac pump. The cummins forum shows step by step pictures and comments of how to install the seal. The picture of the seal coming out has the dust side of the seal towards the vac pump. The comments on reinstall has the dust lip toward the o-ring end ( vac pump end). THAT IS WRONG! Page 3 fig 7 of the cummins seal kit instructions says to install the dust lip down ( away from the o-ring end of the retainer) That is correct. In conclusion, the spring side of the seal goes toward the vac pump.

When ordering a seal kit, I found several shops offering a double lip seal. The cummins kit # 4089742 didn't mention the double lip seal, but the seal is double lip.

Is it limited slip? How much damage? I used to do all size Dana diff's. Customers had to pull them and bring them to my shop. But that was a long time back. Bench time is 4 hours. Dana Parts 1000.00 ?? labor 360.00 Impossible to do a Dana properly in the truck.

I installed a pre pump filter screen in the line between the tank and pump. A simple in line can filter from Vulcan performance.

I also get 30mpg with a stock 2001 auto. 14 mpg town + 16 mpg hwy = 30 mpg overall

Oil will pick up condensation, especially short trips stop and start. Synthetic is for those that run at least 15,000 per year. Leaking? I had a differential repair shop back In the day of leather axle seals. Amsoil would disappear in a flash. I fully advised against it back then. A great semi-synthetic that will run 4 times delo 400 is Schaffer. Reasonable price for a synthetic. Lots of fleets use it.

I saw a 4 different fuel pins in another post. Can you elaborate on the pin you used? How does the BD pin stack up? Who else supplys them?

OK got my old dog back and have time to play with it. Watched video about replaceing governor spring with a 3200rpm spring and fuel rod from BD, and cranking down the star wheel 1 and 1/2 turns CW and advancing the timing 1/8 inch turn. What are the draw backs? Is the BD rod that much better than turning the stock rod 90 degrees CW. The BD spring and rod is $147.00. E-bay has the spring alone for $35.00. I remember working for $.50 cents per hour, bear with me.