oldbeek

All of these diode problems made me remember when Motarola made alternators in the 60s. Still have one on my jeep. It had what was called an isolation diode plate that was attached to the output post of the alternator. The plate acted as a protector. If the alternator was wired backwards, it would blow. We are talking 60s when retrofit alternators were replacing generators. Anyway as another quick fix, I was wondering if a external diode plate could clean up a marginal alternator output? The diodes in my alternator did not show as bad on a commercial alternator tester but it was putting out 3volts ac

What year models does this problem show up in?

I have a 2001 stock auto, 3.54 gears. Have towed a 5r combo over 50,000 miles that weighs 12,000#. Total combo 17,900#. Trans will heat in 2nd . I just drop to 1st. At 27mph and 2600rpm nothing heats. Take your time and smell the roses.

Thanks. I think I already knew the answer.

I am easy on my trans. NEVER get it hot. Tow a 12,000 gvw 5r. My 2001, 2500 has 150,000 miles on it now. I am getting nervous about leaving on a long trip about the age of the trans. I know the reputable transmission shops here at home. What would you do?

Lots of questions asked here. I will throw my 2 cents in. #1 do you know that if you switch your ignition to start, (Just tap start but do not start), the fuel pump will run and pump for 20 seconds to prime the filter and flush all air out through the return. #2 I am pure stock, as you are and prefer the boost gauge over the pyro as being stock you will never overheat. Start boosting over stock, definitely get the pyro. #3 fuel pressure tap? Vulcan sells a banjo bolt for the vp44 that has a 1/8 inch pipe port on it to tap in a pressure gauge. #4 my system for a stock upgrade increases fuel flow by 250%. I cut off the stock 5/16 fuel line just out of the tank Slipped 3/8 fuel line onto it. From there went to a slip on fuel strainer can. From there to 3/8 slip to #12 jic fitting into the Raptor 100, out of the raptor through 3/8 fuel line to the stock filter using new 3/8 banjo fitting and continue on to vp with same 3/8 banjos. All banjo bolts are drilled out to same bore as the bore in the 3/8 banjos. 5/16 I think. (found the aftermarket 1/8in tapped banjo bolt was not large enough) You can buy after market banjo bolts with a larger bore. All after market parts bought from Vulcan performance.

In an ISO air filter test, ( iso duramax iso 5011 testing) They reference the average CFM of the test was 350 cfm. Isn't that a low CFM for a diesel air filter test?

It was not a washable filter. It was a pleated paper filter. They claim some super duper fabric. I guess it is so good at blocking dirt, it also blocks air flow.

On a 2001, How much stuff needs removed to get the unit out? I am thinking air inlet elbow and fuel filter???

After 2 sets of Michelins,75000 miles each , I got cheap and tried Toyo open country. 850 verses 1200 bucks. I am not impresses. Toyo took a lot of weight to balance. I have a shake at 70mph, after new shocks and rebalance. Like they are balanced but not round. Sharp edges grab the grind marks in the freeway and lead you all over. Oh well live and learn!

Replaced the filter today with a Napa gold. Put truck under heavy load at max rpms through the gears. Meter reads 0% plugged. $48.00 Amsoil filter went in the trash. Napa was having a sale on all Gold series filters. New Napa was $12.00 normally 32.00

I have covered all the mentioned items. I reset the restriction meter, drove to town normal driving and meter again went to 65%. The filter is not dirty, I can see light through it and there is only trace dust in the bottom of the pleats. The only thing I can think of is this super Amsoli fiber is to restrictive. Going to install a Napa gold today and see what happens. Have never seen one of these restrictor gauges go bad. Also in my fleet experience I never blow out a filter. You just end up with dust on the wrong side.

I know most of you use a BHF but this question is about the stock filter. I bought a Amsoil air filter 8000 miles back. Supposed to last 100k if blown out every 25k. Supposed to be made with some super fiber. My problem is at 8000 miles the restriction gage pops 65% plugged non towing. The filter is CLEAN! no dirt to speak of on it at all. I am confused.?????

I used fuel injection hose from NAPA. It is high pressure and compatible with gas or diesel fuel. I used double hose clamps and barb tight fittings. Stay away from the quick disconnect fittings. They are a source of air suction leaks

Looks like the same as the pumps with the spring and adding a shim behind the spring. Only here you just screw in or out the adjuster 1/4 turn to change 3 or 4 lbs.

On the steer box adjust. Be sure the box is centered. Same number of turns of the wheel, Hard right to center, and hard left to center. The box has a tight spot and adj screw should be snug at dead center. If wheels are not straight at this point, tie rods need to be adjusted to make them straight. I am saying this because you never know what the previous owner did.

My raptor 100 changes a few pounds every few months. I have learned to live with it. Original set was 18 idle dropped to 14. Reset to 18 then it moved to 21. now back to 18. I run 3/8 lines with 3/8 banjo fittings and 3/8 banjo bolts from Vulcan which is 180% larger than stock.

I bought my in line can strainer and 3/8 banjo fittings from Vulcan. Now, the pressure problem. My Raptor 100 pressure keeps changing. I have learned to live with it. I have a liquid filled industrial gauge 0-30. Set at 18 first. Few months later it dropped to 15. I tweaked the adjust screw back up to 18. The next month it hopped up to 21 at idle 17 f/t. After a few weeks I was ready to adjust it lower again. Started it up to adjust and it was at 18 again. Now still at 18 and 14 at full throttle after 2 months of 18,000 # towing.

As I said previously the shop owner is a good friend that gives very good deals and I was trying to help him out also. Dealer cost on that cap is $120.00

Tire repairman installed improperly. And that is hard to do with these caps. I do inspect torque of nuts after a few miles of use.

Received hubcap from Andy today. Thanks! What I love about this site, folks helping folks.

Mine started popping with 125k of gentle use. Dropped the oil, refilled with Schaffer synthetic 90-140 and added mopar friction modifier. Quiet now with 159k.

On my old 94 and current 2001 the sender was right next to the tranny on drivers side tube going to the cooler.

What am I missing? I removed the stock elect pick up right where the oil leaves the tranny going to the cooler and installed my temp, sender. Figured the stock set up would only notify me long after it was to hot for my taste. Stock unit removed throws no code.

Tire shop lost one of my hubcaps. 2001 ram 2500 alloy wheels. p/n 52039098. It must be rare. Checked every junk yard in LA on their network couldn't find one. anyone got one?