rancherman

Only the wind part.. very little recent additional snow. We are about 12 inches on the flats, and 4-5 foot drifts since ~ mid December. Wind has not stopped blowing for 2 weeks now... BTW, is Alaska having another warm winter??

"Honey, guess what I bought today!!"

If you really want to get it back on the road, try some PS "911" Take the filters off, shake out as much gelled fuel as you can, and refill with that product. Put the remainder (up to the required amount) in the tank. Your fuel is clouded, and no amount of howes, or any product similar will work to clear it up. Pulling it into a heated garage speeds it up too.. Man, just as I've said for several years now.. just because they claim 'winterized', or blended.. it's still a crap shoot.. I used to make a 50/50 blend of #1 and #2 work just fine... now it has to be closer to 75% #1 I like your name, there is a guy not far from here that has a slant 6 in a modified tractor puller, called the same..Buzznhalfadozen I wonder if I could call my Jeep "buzzinthirddozen"?

Damper shouldn't be an issue. 4th gear is straight through... and SOMETIMES, the countershaft will 'rattle' around when the harmonics and the stars align.. Is the noise with foot totally off the throttle? are you braking, or coasting? Rolling as slow as 1000-1300 rpm in 4th is getting pretty 'luggy'. Can you describe the noise more of a whirring or whining type sound?.... or more of a chirping/grunting type?

I really like any needle type gauge over a digital. You can 'see' how fast change is much quicker than watching a scrolling set of numbers.. You can concentrate on a trend, rather than an exact number... which may help concentrate on the road ahead! of course, this is from my lifetime of nothing but needles, Your experience may vary! I have the autometer pyro ultra lite 4344 on several of my tractors I don't even fool around with the high limit warning, I just turn the body of the gauge so when the needle is 'left' of straight up.. I'm good.

guys, When we find a filter snotted over, don't assume it happened overnight, or with the one blast of cold. Believe me, It's probably been building up since Thanksgiving or even earlier, and this last cold spell was the final straw. Lord only knows what kind of snot is in there from a summer of running biodiesel. Keeping spare filters ONHAND is the best investment... changing out the filters OFTEN is just a necessary evil of diesel ownership. Cousin runs otr truck, and he runs a gauge between the lp and the pre filter (suction side) when it drops to a certain level, he changes the filters. Not sure how'd this would work on a airdog or fass, maybe there is a port on the pump body?

I was afraid you'd say that! *exhaust system is good* And the fact you can feel the engine drop a cylinder. Hey, I'm too lazy to go back and read. Did you use a leak down tester, or just a compression tester? Also, to the best you can remember, did this come on all at once? have you noticed a increase in soot build up in the tail pipe? what is your oil consumption doing?

I'm wondering if you can just monitor the overflow coming out of the vp with a clear hose.. 2 questions. where are you 'hearing' this miss? in cab, or at the rear of truck, by the tailpipe? You feeling a stumble too? Does this miss disappear when engine is under load? (you only hear it when engine is freewheeling?) Then, what kinda shape is your exhaust system in? Turbo- through- tailpipe? Yesterday, I fired up my ol Massey with a 540 perkins, and right where the 'y' brings both exhaust banks together, it's a little loose. Simple slip fit, just needs the clamp tightened. Standing back 20 feet while I was closing a gate, I could hear a sporadic pop-miss, ever so slight. I says to myself.. hmmm, I wonder if that dude is mixing air and getting a pop... or he has a little oil leakage on the turbine side, causing a little pop-miss.. There is a slight chance of a broken ring, that when 'static' it will seal up under pressure. And it's fooling you.

.... starting to look very very similar to the winter of '48-'49 around here. It's been snowing a little every other day, and the dang wind has never stopped. See the sun for a few hours every 3-4 days. Snow is now belly deep on my cows... with a possible 3+ months to go.. My Lucas fuel treatment experiment went south last weekend. Now running blended #1 at least 60% of the mix.

Just being silly with the tiny print. Like the guy whispering in a convention hall during a heated debate..

our 2000 did the same thing.. usually after a long day of running. It seemed to come on after the truck cooled down, ususally in the middle of the night. I just bent the bracket a little so the switch was a little closer to the brake pedal. Been good now for a year. (no more jabs in the middle of the night: "Honey, the Dodge is all lit up outside"...)

I like the idea of a small accumulator.. for 2 reasons! First would be the smoothing out of the impulses, with the added benefit of a small reservoir always 'on demand'... and well, it'd be the perfect isolator for the fp gauge! 'spose a air-over type or would a spring/piston type used here?

This exact same thing happened to my toyota last year. hinges were sprung, and the front door edge hit the fender when you opened and closed the door. I took a block of wood, and put it in the front jamb. manually pulled back on the door, and sprung the hinges almost to where they were originally. Gap is now almost perfect again I think some of the sprungness was the pillar itself was distorted. Except for the 'contact' area of chipped paint and the 2 dents where the front door edge contacted the hinges.. It's good as new. (almost)

well, NEXT time my vp goes south.. it'll be converted over to P pump. Already have an extra one on the shelf. Conversion kits 'on sale' are about 1300. *throwing in towel*

I replaced mine too about a year and a half ago, and pondered the same. Mine is a 2000 with a 6 speed, and the SO pump. I stayed with the SO, mainly because of it was a little cheaper, and the fact I didn't have a 17X pump to trade. Which would've made it a LOT more expensive! it's true with what yankneck says.. the SO pump has more 'future upgrade' potential. I dunno.. but just bolting on a HO pump won't give an automatic increase in power ..(215 to 235) doesn't the ecm need to be changed too???

I'd still check for air in the fuel.

This is exactly what drives me nuts on ANY forum! Wasn't it just a few months ago... we all sat behind our computers, and watched a thread unfold before our very eyes on the exact transistor that burns out? Theories on why it burns out.. etc. I took away from that experience, was THAT little transistor was responible for a majority of pump 'failures'... Now, Mike throws the fact out that 'AC noise' is what is killing the PSG. So, exactly what are we trying to prevent from 'overheating' inside the VP with multiple thousands of dollars of aftermarket fuel pumps that have a half life of a 'fart in a whirlwind' ???

another thing i've never understood is IF the main thing that is 'cooked' in the VP is the circuit board, why hasn't it ever been relocated?.. Is the servo motor that changes the timing intregal to this piece? Is it a moveable part that changes timing, or is there a piezioelectric gizmo that does the work?... Most vp pump 'failures' are electronic, correct?

so, all fuel entering the vp MUSt GO straight to the vane pump.. and what isn't needed by the HP part is then directed to the overflow?

Please refresh my memory here: Is the fuel that leaves the vp (through the overflow valve) fuel that has been THROUGH the internal vane pump.. which means the vane pump is boosting the internal pressures.. Or is it fuel that only subject to the lp pressure? Meaning, if the lp is supplying enough volume, then the internal vane pump takes it the rest of the way. (increases it enough to pop the overflow valve) This would only work if there is enough volume, and all needs are met. On the otherhand, is the overflow there to guarantee the internal vane pump is not subjects to anymore than it's preset level? iirc 14 psi?

maybe true when the electric pumps leave their factory.... Speed of the pump isn't the cure-all. In fact, an electric pump or any pump humping as fast as they sound is ridiculous for any long term life. WIDTH of the gear is what is needed for hy capacity... not rpm. Me? I'd figure out how to run a pump between the vacuum pump and power steering pump... or even figure out how to run a pto beyond the powersteering. Putting an alternator on with the 'out the back' pto is nutz.. those alternators are turning 6000+ rpm. Now, before all the posts about 'how would you prime'.. well, here goes. put a one way hand pump with check valves before the gear pump. the hand pump would get fuel almost to the gear pump... and the excess would go back to return/tank. when engine starts, fuel would be drawn through the check valves and hand pump. Still a lot of screwing around isn't it... putting lipstick on a pig..

Hey, all this talk of 'stoves'... anyone have a wood fired add on 'furnace'?? Not an outdoor deal, but one that is inside, and ducted through the existing ducts. I'm looking at the 'Shelter' brand 250k btu furnace. Menards sells them. I'm already set up with 8 inch chimney, and their largest should really have the 10 inch.

LOL< yah, I see you guys made National news this morning; Scottsbluff had the nations' low for the morning.. I was lucky, only 14 below, and now the wind is out of the SW.. NO PROTECTION anywhere in a S wind

I still suspect air in the fuel

When the engine is stumbling and/ or racing away, what is the exhaust doing for smoke?