rancherman

Ebay. Those bearings are like 10 for 6 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-10-608-2RS-two-side-rubber-seals-bearing-608-rs-ball-bearings-608-rs-/130963688741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e0b4d25 can't quite make out the number on the seal... Throw your specs on and google that number! No doubt you'll come up with plenty! edit.. I think I got 031072v1 if so, this should work http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/transcom/031072vtby.html The 'v' should be the Viton material (diesel resistant) You may have to use one of the interchange numbers and try searching those

what's yer opinion of cast aluminum?

Good to hear! I know those double cardans can be a total *****... hope you been vaccinated!

glad to hear you are pulling the cover to install the seal. I've never like the idea of putting any kind of force on a cover when it's not supported from behind.

hey, I've seen air powered clutches on big rigs, Is the wire for electric engage?

I'm not 100 percent, but just plain ol breaking off 'was' the fear some years ago. The stingers didn't like a particular vibration when mounted in certain positions.. Don't hear much of that these days.. I was surprised when I mounted my Autometer electric.. they wanted the end of the stinger at least midway in the stream. That seemed like a heck of a lot of skinny *** thermocouple hanging in the breeze!

As long as the fitting can screw in more than a couple threads before it gets tight! Don't need to see a new post; "starter threads stripped out..now what???" :D honestly, I'm more concerned with the tip of the sensor breaking off and destroying the turbine.. than a few chips of cast. Cast tends to make pretty small chips, where steel will be more a long curly q.

DO run the tap in a little further than 1/3. (but don't allow it to bottom out and break off!) The female threads need to be fully cut, the fitting is the tapered part, and you want to make sure the threads on the manifold are opened up far enough to engage several threads on the manifold.

I put in a sliding glass shower door in the tub/shower over Christmas.. I got tired of water on the floor, and being 'attacked' by a clingy ice cold shower curtain! I'm just a tic over 6 foot, and have learned to 'duck' whilst egressing the shower! The top rail is just right for scalping!

actually, not quite. my 2000 is a 6 speed, and standard output. our 6 speed is only 1-1/4 inch input

I'd support the housing itself and push the center hub through the inner bearing 'outwards'. Probably a couple of arbor plates along opposing sides. Hopefully I can use more than just the ears of the housing itself! The hub will need to slide through the inner race (roller part) of the inboard bearing. This where the real force will be needed, as the inner race on the outboard bearing will just 'ride along' with the hub as it moves out. I'm not too thrilled at putting that much force on the actual rollers, if re assembly is is the plan. This is just a 'looky' mission.

I did a quick search on Ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DODGE-NV4500-5SPD-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-4WD-4X4-NO-CORE-RETURN-REQUIRED/291262975379?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D2733377748e34939aa98248412e7f48d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D271637012517&rt=ncand found a couple of 'brand new' nv4500's These are set up for 4X4, I'm not sure what you have. 1700 bucks seems like a decent deal for a brand new trans. Last NV5600 cost me almost $3300! Even a local wrench could probably install without too much trouble for you. I see they are already upgraded to the cast rear extension, and have the 1 3/8ths input shaft.. No core return, and a warranty. This one is in Dallas http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-DODGE-NV4500-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-4WD-/331155991855?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1a6f6d2f&vxp=mtr EDIT for 3rd time in 24 hours ha ha, you got me in the transmission mood.. I looked up the vendor that built my nv5600. http://highgeartransmission.com/ ( am in final stages of gathering parts for my build on a 98 12v) I see they are offering rebuilt nv4500's for ~ $1200 (ebay) or going straight to their 4500 page http://nv4500transmission.com/they show them for $997. The difference is ebay is 'free' shipping. (actually, shipping is built in the price) The 5600 they built for me 5 years ago is still strong. I'm going with another 5600 from them for my project. point is, I think 1200 is pretty close to what you'd pay for someone to rebuild yours. They run them on a trans dyno for an hour to make sure they are correct..

I can almost place his voice on the phone with this image.. Gear is now installed and hooked up. I can't believe we got the steering wheel indexed on first stab!

hmmm, 1000 lbs isn't too bad, unless you are feeding a 5 or 6 inch cylinder with 1000 lbs! that would be just shy of 15 ton on a 6 inch cylinder. After looking at that spyn tec page, with the dismantled bearing, we can see a shoulder that stops the tapered part from being pressed in too much. These in effect would be totally non adjustable. (press the bejeezus out of them and they will never be too tight) I'm going to knock my old ones apart and see for myself how much there is. I am a little concerned though when pressing out the hub, all force is going to be transferred to the inner tapered bearing. Not the best way to press through a bearing.. My old ones are the sacrificial lamb.. just to see what's what.

as usual, I'm curious on these bearings! I found a spyn tec article on how oem are designed. http://spyntec.com/00-13_dodge_factory_unit_bearing_photos/ Diesel4life; when yours pulled apart, how hard was it to press back together? Did you need a press, or did you just use the spindle nut to run it back?

'Rocking' is a method big rig guys use to 'see' if their brakes are completely released. They just roll a couple feet, push the clutch in, and feel how the truck comes to a stop. (in both directions) if the truck comes to a stop, and the driver 'feels' even the slightest drag just as the momentum stops- viola; hanging brake(s) Sometimes going up a slight incline will help. The exact instant the truck comes to a stop, you should feel zero 'hang time' as the vehicle immediately reverses direction. You'll see them stick their head out the window too to watch and listen for a tight spot of the rotation on the tires. I like to get just enough speed to get a full rotation or two.. just in case there's an out of round drum. sometimes a hanging brake will sound a slight 'eeek' noise just as the truck momentum stops. As far as your situation.. I've never been that deep into mine yet, are these trucks equipped with an adjustable pushrod coming off the brake pedal? The thing may be screwed in too far.. I think what MnTom was getting at was to 'rock' the truck with and without the vacuum attached to see if there was any difference in the 'glide'. Try putting your foot UNDER the pedal with pretty good force too, and see if that helps

seeing you are a modeler, you probably know you can tighten up the packing nut- when the stem starts leaking. (it's probably the material they use for the packing "not diesel compatible") Needs to be at least Nitrile. I wonder if its an o ring, or if it's just a very short section of rubber tube

today was a little slow, I got a tractor split in half that needs my attention.. but got some done on the '00. Got the new bushing popped in the axle. Easy to snare the old one out with a pry bar through the CAD opening.. and drove the new bushing back in with a 1 inch threaded rod with a nut on the end.. and a large flat washer.. The threaded rod went clear out the end of the axle tube. I held everything lined up, and my son tapped it in from the outside. Was able to install the innermost shaft, and got the passenger knuckle back on. Both knuckles seems to rotate nice and smooth, lock to lock. Hopefully tomorrow, my new hubs will show up and we can get those installed. I got the yokes all apart, and need to get the new crosses pressed in the shafts. New 'blue top' steering gear is staring at me as I type, and will get that bolted up too. I'll snap some pics for tomorrow.

I've heard too that the isspro sending unit is stout enough to withstand the pulses. I think WildandFree told me he is running isspro w/o snubber. edit: has anyone tried to just use an airlock... like used in household plumbing. It'd be tee'd into the line, and the sensor would be on THAT line, and BEYOND the sensor would be 6-8 inches of dead end air. probably need to keep that part vertical. Make it about double the size of the line.. 3/4 inch should do it.

sigh, well, you know me! gotta beat a dead horse/chase ghosts.. LOL. and I should've said it appeared to be drilled in the square part of the housing. I was wondering how the sensor would respond to having grease in contact with it? anyone have any pics of these in dismantled condition?

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311901 This is where I snagged those pics! not MY shop! The hole is on the round part, apparently between the 2 bearings edit: 'square part'

NO boldness here mike! I snagged that off the link I showed in previous post! After diesel4life mentioned he relubed his after inadvertently separating his bearing, and said 'us with abs' could do it easily, I searched this topic and found that post about drilling!

I was the one who mentioned 'drilling'. And my sudden case of the 'willies' of trying it!

my son when he was in the Marines and based in 29 palms Cali, said they had a LOT of 'unauthorized' vehicles running through the desert, and totally blacked out. The only way to see em is with infared. He said they was moving out real fast too! those fuses are a good start, and I'd even go old school; simple hand valve in the fuel line, somewhere that is kinda hard to see, Down by the starter, or even back closer to the tank. I'd use a simple ball valve, 1/4 turn ON-OFF , 1/2 inch capacity.

That drilling and tapping of the bearings seems like a good 'how to do' article for 'here'! hint hint. I found this article http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311901 Kinda gives me the willies drilling into a cavity, and hoping ALL shrapnel makes it out! That guy drilled almost through, then busted out the last part with a magnetized punch. Would a cone shaped nozzle on the end of a grease gun seal up against the abs sensor hole?