rancherman

Pm sent to you Dave, seemed ok at my end.

Were these ON-OFF only, (Batt voltage) or did they put in a variable concession for different loads? *vp 44's*

Ideas on the final 'finish' yet? padded/upholstered, or au natur'al?? Almost a mini semi tractor console ya got going!

What I took away from their description of the special X, was definitely more timing.. from Idle on up... and also expect the engine to rattle accordingly at idle... I bet it starts harder too.. they didn't elaborate on what they do, but apparently they swap some things around inside.. I don't have a tuner now, but like you said, we could duplicate electronically what they are doing mechanically, plus able to go back to stock if needed!

That was them?? Gotcha!

Thanks, I was just reading about their 'special X' pump. little more hp, little more economy... all for an additional 300 bucks... That would put it well north of 2k..

What's the skinny on BC? yea, nay?

X2^^^ I've put space heaters pointed right at the filter too.. It's good until the filters plug again, (sometimes within 10-15 minutes) so the 911 comes into play.. I've shook goop out of the filter and re filled with pure 911.. Let it 'cook' a little before cranking ... it does take a little time to dissolve the wax. If you got new filters... nevermind. Make sure the little screen in the bottom of tank is clear as well. More times I've had a blockage there. Easy fix: blow backwards through the line to kick the offending crud/ice off.. and check your water drain tap!! If full of frozen water, that may be part of the problem too.

I just installed a carter 4600 (black) on a tractor this week.. got it through amazon.. I couldn't believe the owner ratings and comments about how many are putting them in the 24 valves... some single, some double. And you're right, run 2 of them, and when 1 croaks, you'd still have the other to limp home on. Doubtful both would go **** up at the same time! I put on about 1000 hours a year on this particular tractor, and if it lives beyond 1 year, I'll give it my blessing... 50,000 mile equivalent would be pretty good service life for 180 bucks! (2 pumps X $90)

Nice having a unit right here to examine! I unscrewed the WS100 and gazed down the hole. Paper element. I'd say that is more than adequate for pump life (lift pump that is) What is the order of events in these? Tank-water separator-pump- filter- internal bypass....Then off to the engine? or is the internal bypass before final filter? If it's the final filter first, I'd say Mikes dirty block mounted filter is from dirt just getting blown through the donaldsons. Basically a no brainer, who knows what kind of pressure those donaldsons are seeing. But if it's regulated fuel that is getting to the final, then perhaps the Donaldsons aren't as good @ 18 psi.. and are being overwhelmed. It's got to be one or the other. Paper filters are good for a certain amount, at a certain PSI.. when exceeded, something must 'give'. .... a round peg WILL fit in a square hole, just need a big enough hammer... edit.. unscrewed the FF too, and I seen how the 'magic' air separator works.. Just a simple draw tube going to the bottom of the filter. Same principle as our fuel tank. 'air rises' and goes out the top.

I'd be suspicious as hell Mike! Have you ever cut open the donaldsons to see if they are still 'intact'?

Doesn't the fuel go through the first filter (water separator) before it enters the pump?.. I have a 100 micron 'screen' before my fass 02. It's right beside the starter, and is the first thing I hit with the heat gun when the truck quits from gelling.

17k hours is INDEED a lot! Back in the day, it would've meant the same as 850,000 miles. (50 miles equivalent per hour) well, you and I know that ain't gonna happen! LOL, these days, aftermarket suppliers are hoping the vehicle is sold, traded, crashed, long before most warrantees are needed. Most vehicles are! The averages are on their side.. So, plaster some 'number' on the box stating an exorbitant value.. Poof. People line up like sheep to buy. This bunch (belonging 'here') is probably on the outside of that box! (Not trading every 2-3 years) Mike, on your filter statement above, I got to thinking about these systems. (and their location) I'd BET as soon as you put in a tighter filter 'down there' you'd soon join the rest of us 'normals' in the gelled fuel club.. Keep those filters 'as is' and let your block-mounted "tight and warm" do the rest of the filtration.

oh, but they are 'scientists'. Geez, even they agree that we've been in several ice ages.. The last one wasn't that long ago either! wouldn't that be considered a climate change?? So, man comes along, and that exact point of existence is supposed to be 'normal'...

yah, that hint was intended for the guy who hasn't drilled too many holes in thin cast iron.

Been looking at the Fuelab's pumps, systems. After mopartechnician advised his experience with them. They are a couple hundred bucks more than the AD or FASS. But they are brushless, fuel actually is IN the motor.. (should help cool the motor) and THAT seal is no longer a problem. 2 year warrantee.. (limited of course) probably means they won't be responsible for additional costs when a pump leaves you stranded, or frozen to death along side of road.. I sent them an inquiry last night about what IS available for replacement parts.. still awaiting a response. Since this is a brushless motor, there are some electronics within the motor itself. Brushless motors are AC, and needs to convert the DC over... So there is always a potential problem there.. I guess, when looking at these alternatives, we should look at the track record, price means nothing if the dang thing would go 10 years! You know, a lot has been said 'pro' gerotor pumps... but when they are worn, you might as well throw them away. Most pumps are far cheaper to just throw away, than to re-gear them. These appear to have carbon 9 vane rotor heads. IF fuelab offers rebuild kits for these, (bearings, pump components) I'm going to really consider one. I look at it as economics.. buy a AD or FASS for 500-600 bucks every 18 months, or if mopartechnician is correct, 5-6 yrs. or more and costing 750-850.. The pivot point for me is IF PARTS ARE AVAILABLE!! IF we could find a source to 'maintain' our present day pumps, we should probably put a 'kit' in them annually, whether they need it or not. AD and FASS seems to rather sell brand new units! I'm also looking at a couple 'off the shelf' components to build my own system. (electric) I'm going to build it with considerations for fuel flow THROUGH the '44 for cooling FIRST. When those needs are met first and foremost, everything else should be 'duck soup'...

Honestly, PAY ATTENTION! When the bit breaks through, and you lunge the bit in and it breaks off against the opposite wall.... We'll be reading "whoops.. now I gotta take the manifold apart to retrieve busted bit"

you don't have to be overly ginger when putting the axle back in.. There's a 'funnel/guide' on the seal itself, which guides the axle up and through the seal.. Still, you don't want to ape- chuck it in!

Couple areas of concern on that posi locker! You've probably noticed that when you TURN the knob, it changes the setting of the notches. The other thing is just because the 4X4 light is on, doesn't mean it's fully engaged. The switch is now reversed to what was in there; so when the rod goes away from the switch (to engage) the switch immediately closes and lights the light. I need to adjust or screw in the switch deeper so It's accurate. And yes, when there is pressure on the axle, it's impossible to disengage. Try disengaging the transfer case first, roll a couple feet, and it should be easier. I had to back up a few feet today. Turning the wheel left and right should help too. The cable system they use is a standard type knob lock with 'turn to fine adjust' type latch. I have them on my stationary engines. Pull it out to a rough setting for engine speed, and turn the knob a little either way for zero in on exact rpm. Once the button is pushed, the screw adjuster is cancelled, and the original end notches take over. Reaching down and standing on my head... it's not to easy NOT to have a little turning action going on!! I'm wondering about building a bracket and mount the knob right on the transfer case shift lever itself.. But it's still WAY out of a comfortable zone for pulling Maybe up on the steering column? I think there is enough cable.. I got about 2 feet extra in a big loop under the hood to pull back into the cab. I routed my cable straight through the hole drilled using the template.. and went straight to the vp44, nice easy bend down to just ahead of the engine mount, and another easy bend to go past the differential... and straight into the CAD housing.

I put about 1/8th toe yesterday.. all new parts though. Handles very nicely! I posted on my thread yesterday, but it's buried pretty deep in the site by now.. Can someone confirm or condemn my idea of the steering stabilizer's job of not only absorbing the shock in the steering.. but the gas filled shock also keeps pressure on the link in front of the diff cover? ( and rotated away from said diff cover?) Once that tires' started to wear, it's gonna go quickly, even if you 'fix' the problem. (throw it on the rear axle) I usually put 4 new tires on the dually, and put the old fronts on the outside duals.

I wonder if by keeping the fuel totally clear, (Howes, Ps, etc) if that is what they call 'improved lubricity'. After all, when the wax is stuck to the side of the filter, it sure ain't going to the IP! I wonder if Mikes NON use of additives have helped with his longevity too? I know for years that as soon as we'd start blending #1 for winter use, we knew we were cutting our pump life down. #1 fuel, kero, all make pretty dang good parts cleaners!

DONE! speedy bleeders worked perfectly, and I got the dang wheel centered pretty close! Truck doesn't pull left or right, wandering is zip, Other than overfilling the PS and the resulting puke out the top.. no signs of leaking.. Brakes actually release I was a little concerned, My son wasn't near as delicate as I would've like to see when he installed the pistons! Both axles are now churning synthetic mobil axle lube.. 75w140.. I'm going to rethink the place where the knob is for engaging the 4X4.. It's really in a awkward spot... but I gotta admit, there isn't any real substantial mounting spots other than the bottom edge of the dash. (that has a steel framework to tie into). I'm happy with the Bluetop steering gear.. It's most definitely more responsive than the 4 turn gear that was in there. Tire noise is a lot quieter now.. I think I was plowing a lot of asphalt with the old worn parts! .... Time to put her to work, and get some payback on all the new parts! Thanks guys for all the input, and tips for getting me through this!

I'd think the key spots that need attention/mods for longevity.. Then maybe the 'gotta haves' when HP is built up...

congratulations!! First grandchild? It hit me pretty weird, being called 'grandpa' for the first time! Them's fightin words!! You'll get good use from those small parts pickin' hands and sharp eyeballs in a few years!

curious... Did you notice the cooling fan running more with the hotter stat?