rancherman

well, now's the time to kill 2 birds with one stone! (heater core and evap!) You sure don't want to do this twice!! I've seen some real nasty coating of slime/algae/disgusting snot growing in high humidity evaps! OH GEEZ... I just about forgot to ask!!! IS YOUR DRAIN TUBE BLOCKED????

does it start out cold, and fizzle out? or is it the same all the time? make sure your hot air door is shutting see if you are icing up the evap, your statement on the high humidity/low humidity difference in cooling makes me wonder about that! I'd still consider a r/d and tube change out, and flush, the color isn't good! I swear, some AC shops will 'add' crap just to have repeat business... their fix helps short term, but you will be BACK in a few weeks!

Reddish brown makes me think there is a ton of stop-leak type crap in your system. Not so sure on the rusting... not very much ferrous iron in these systems. I think the pistons in the pump are even stainless.. You've said it's been serviced a few times in the past..and probably been subject to various 'recipes' of instant fix.. Probably time to flush the whole shebang, replace the receiver dryer and expansion tube... and draw the whole thing down.

well, actually I was thinking anyone of the so called 'antigel' treatments 'howes', powerservice, etc. plus the 2 stroke. Then theres always the 'winterized' fuels, and the blended.. Winterized around here is kinda up to the discretion of the supplier. it could be 50/50 #1 #2, or any ratio up or down, then any number of his 'secret' additives' could be blended in too~! I wonder if there's a independent lab me or you could send samples to? A quick search only gave me a couple of global type mega labs. I"d like to send em a sample of what I have out of the barrel, then one treated with a product such as powerservice ( at recommended and ahem, 'actual' dosage ) and yet another with 2 stroke too.

Has ANYONE ever tested treated fuel PLUS 2 stroke?

Gotcha! Thanks man.

these Vision 81A are a steel rim riveted to an aluminum center disk? More searching found me several sets for what you said... 180 each 'delivered'. Their open cap clears the spyntec hubs ok?

Thanks John .. What's your axle ratio? I have the 3.54 on the '00, Seems just about right for what I'm doing.. and have a choice of either the 3.54 or 4.10's on my project truck.. (getting the nv5600)

ya know, I'm at a crossroads here on my project truck. I've thought I'd just dual up the rear, and keep on truckin.. Now, I see it's not quite as easy as just bolting on the rims.. apparently the 3/4 ton rear brake drum is a little larger on the OD than the 'made for duals' 1 ton. So, a very expensive spacer is required. The rim will hit the drum before it's all the way on.. Not to mention I'd have to carry 2 spares, unless I convert the front axle too.. I'm aware the 1 ton axle is already 4 inches wider than the 3/4 ton, but apparently the backing plate/drum configuration is different! Then, spring to tire clearance is minimal too. Another thing, our 2000 ram is worthless as **** on a boar when its unloaded, and when in sand. Thank goodness it's 4X4... After reading about your conversion, I'm wondering if going this route would be smarter for me? Main reason for the duals? stability when loaded. OK OK< duals look 'cool'... especially under a flatbed... Main reason for no duals? well, fuel economy, and ability to 'cut trail' in muddy/sloppy/snowy conditions! As far as ride quality.... I'm seriously considering air seat suspension and the best seat money can buy. My back can't take it anymore! (whole 'nother subject/thread there!) Thanks for your thread! Methinks I've probably answered my own questions! Ok, 20 minutes later, and I see those same rims on Ebay for 795 for a set of 4, and additional 160 for trucking. Not as bad as I was expecting! Tires too were only a 'tic' higher than what I've been buying for the '00. (235 80 16's ) $119 for the 245 70 19.5, F rating $133 for the G rating $149 for the H rating. (treadwrights)

I got similar type kit off of ebay, and it's Chinese... what else is new! there's tons of these out there.. The price you show is about average. Like you, I too just need the occasional pump down and recharge tools. So far, so good. Sure, these smaller pumps take a little longer to pull, but the end result is same.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMBO-3CFM-1-4HP-AIR-VACUUM-PUMP-HVAC-REFRIGERATION-KIT-AC-134A-MANIFOLD-GAUGE-/271235699782?hash=item3f26e85446&item=271235699782&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr This is what I have, it's 134.99 free shipping

2 years ago I purchased my first NEW gooseneck stock trailer. 2 7000# torsions hold it up. I can say when empty, there is no movement! in fact I had a flat tire 2 days ago, and didn't even need a jack, just a 2X6 to drive over with the good tire. Trailer just goes 'boing' boing.. I can't imagine that would be very nice on the innerds of a nice TT ! 'course, I'm about 4500# empty, probably a lot lighter than a loaded TT? Oh, the boxes of parts I've replaced on my sprung trailers over the years, Springs, shackles, mid links! Oh, then we learned how to set up hitch heights... which helped on longevity of these parts. ( annual greasing doesn't hurt either! )

we are quite a collection of missing body parts, well-worn organs, plugged pipes, and chipped teeth! Man, If only I took as much care of my carcass as my vehicles! (well, maybe that's the problem! ) ha ha! Missing hair isn't worth mentioning is it?

I was pumping up tire on the vehicle about 8 years ago, and it exploded right beside my right ear. Not having 'stereo' capabilities made it impossible to locate noises! I've adapted, but the worst part is the DANG NON STOP RINGING.. If I make myself 'listen' to it, it's deafening! I've pleaded with the doc to just 'disconnect' the dang thing and be totally deaf in that ear... but he won't consider it! farmers' ear, farmers' lung.. quite the profession eh?

very possible. slaves tend to loose their seal if not exercised.. 'Lose it too" sheesh.. LOL

nice calculator Mike. thanks for posting!

well, here we go. a 'pump' (turbo) is only as efficient as it's plumbing. Just because there is a heck of a force (please don't consider a piston coming up a good reason to move gasses, otherwise too much energy 'gained' in the flywheel from the powerstroke would be needed to push this gas out) Sure, the piston does help, but if we rely on the piston to provide the power to spin the turbo, it'd be like thinking we could add a generator to the front axle, just to drive the rear axle motor, for free... uh, no. anyone ever wonder what the cylinder pressure is JUST BEFORE EXAUST VALVE OPENS??? well, the 'pop' sure isn't the piston pushing it out! Back to first paragraph!.. the PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL ON BOTH SIDES OF THE TURBO is the only way to get WORK done. HIGH on one side, LOW the other. There is a reason the temp differential in exhaust is about 150 -250 degrees cooler on the downside of the turbo. It's gone from high pressure to relatively low pressure.. and has EXPANDED considerably! It needs way more room too. Ever wonder why air tools get cold when they run? Same principle going on here.. Moparman, This is the exact opposite reason why your question on intake mods earlier is answered here. 'Intercooler'. Imagine our systems without the cooler... and trying to stuff 200 degree compressed air into our engine. There simply isn't enough pipe capacity 'as designed' to get the job done. (not enough moles of O2 in that hot charge). But, cool it down to more manageable temps.. ~100-125* (half the temp, doubles the density) then we see some results! Intercooler mods would be needed if it isn't large enough to cool sufficiently. More surface area, more cores, etc). An I'd think until we start winging our engines to 3200 + and up rpm, the capacity of our intake system works pretty well. Then of course, larger pipe going in, and going out. Dang it, I got a little ahead of myself on the piston driving the turbo.. Nothing is 'free'. we are taking the energy still available in the very hot energy-packed exhaust gas, to do work for us.. We still want a happy medium of relatively packed HOT gas (pre turbo) and extract this energy as much as possible in the turbo, without degradation of cylinder scavenging. Keeping the gas hot and still 'packed' before the turbo is the key. Getting the 'spent' gas away from the turbo is just as important to maintain amount of 'work' done inside the turbo.

after searching for a fuel lab to do some home testing.. I found this site. http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf It is 7 years old, but had some pretty good info on various additives still on the shelves today. I always wondered what the hfrr stood for, and in a nut shell, they take a steel ball bearing, and it's rubbed across a steel bar at high frequency for 90 minutes, immersed in the test fuel. At that time, the ball bearing is microscopically inspected for wear, and the 'scar' is measured in microns. the actual measurement of the scar is the fuel rating.. I can't cut and paste that page to here, but I promise it's worth taking a look at! our wally world 2 stoke was in the game @ 474 score... but only tested at 1:200 ratio! sidebar: NOT ULSD COMPLIANT, MAY DAMAGE 2007 SYSTEMS. wth? are they talking about the duramaxes and their optic eye in the fuel system?? anyhoo, #1 with a hfrr score of 221 is the SOYPOWER bio diesel blended at 50:1 with 'normal' fuel. My beloved theory of running weo fell short! They used Shell Rotella 15w40 at 200:1 ratio, with only a score of 634... only slightly better than the baseline fuel. almost a statistically insignificant amount. Sidebar: not ulsd compliant. I'd like to blend some various amounts and send off to be tested of my recipe! maybe the Rotella is the problem??

LOL, you don't 'like' the ring ding ding of the kids' 1.5 inch pipe organs? I'm like you, the deeper the better, even if it's a touch loud.

yep, stainless isn't quite as 'vibration proof'. It'll crack a little quicker than mild/aluminized Just a tad more brittle, and it work-hardens

now you can install...... air starter, air actuated radiator cooling fan, hmmm what else??

I'd like to tell you it'll seal back up, but usually a non pressurized seal won't. Sometimes they do! I'm pretty sure the input shaft is just above the oil level, even with added fluid (for improved lubrication inside the trans) I have a re located fill plug in our 2000, and it's still just below the centerline of the trans So, unless your trans was REALLY overfilled, or truck was parked steeply downhill, I am thinking it's coming out of the front bearing support plate/gasket.. check out what's still in the trans, and compare it to what's on the ground... make sure it's the same stuff! Are you the original owner? Geez, I've seen people dump in 'seal conditioners' to save a transmission... ugg, that works, for awhile! then when the seals are all 'poofed' out wham! flood city.

since I'll be in the market for a system here shortly.. are all these aftermarket pretty much the same gage? I've heard some drone more than others.. is this the thinness of the tube.. or just lack of a muffler? Would a heat wrap help out?

I'm up in the north central part... Dang near the South Dakota border.

X2! I'd like to run 5 inch, but geez, the cost difference is substantial! probably go with a mbrp 4 system here.. maybe a 5 or 6 inch tail

cool. like Mntom stated, larger systems are for higher hp.. (which means we are adding a lot more air and heat (fuel) to the original system.) So, the extra air from the 'now well-lit turbo' and the heat from the extra fuel HAS to be able to exit fairly freely!... hence the 4 or 5 inch pipe. In gassers, dual exhaust usually does the trick. (but, remember in gassers, I 'shift' at 6,500 rpm) and the amount of cfm going downpipe is at least double of what factory ever expected!)