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Showing results for tags '12v'.
Found 25 results
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In need of a wiring diagram for a 1994 cummins pcm/ecm thanks -
I am fixing to replace my tappet cover gasket as it has decided it wants to leak quite a bit. Before it was a 1 maybe 2 drops on the ground total and now the side of my block is black and it leaves a bigger puddle of oil than what i would like too on the ground. Not very much still and oil level is checked to make sure its safe! But, I want to know if I can purchase this 12v tappet cover off ebay and bolt it right up with a new gasket? Or will it not work? I Want the extra vent and c ant jar loose of $300 for a billet one.
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Heres what I got done so far. Bout 3 hours worth. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=98 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=99 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=100 Those damn timing cover bolts were finger tight. I have seen that out of a lot of 12v's so if you ever get in there, lock tite the hell out of those bolts!
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I know several people have asked about grid heater times and when it starts... Well here you go... GRID HEATERS Above 59*F ........................ 0 Seconds ............................ No Post Heating 15*F to 59*F ...................... 10 Seconds .......................... Post Heating 0*F to 15*F ........................ 15 Seconds ......................... Post Heating Below 0*F ........................... 30 Seconds ......................... Post Heating Remember block heaters tend to offset the intake air temp so be aware that block heater will do this. Also be aware that there is 2 grid heaters and during the pre-heating both elements are used during the post heating it might be 1 or 2 depending on temp at the IAT. Now each grid heater is 95 AMPs a piece for a total of 190 AMPs total draw so this is why is so critical that your batteries are strong in the winter time!
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Alright heres a video of my truck. Now here's what I want to find out. If you notice, the voltage is 11.7 while it runs initially, then whatever that something is lets up and shows the grid heater only drawing it to 12.2, then it lets off and 14v is seen. So what is the initial thing that draws it down to 11.7? Does the grid heater have 2 power levels? -
bout a year ago when i bought the truck i redid the timmin and the KDP and i noticed a few days later it started leakin oil and now its leaken so bad bascally everytime i turn around i gotta put oil in it i got a few idea's or hints right where my AFC housin starts to back of the engine its caked on with oil so i took off the AFC housin and got some silicone and put on it got everythang back together and took it for a drive came back and its still leakin oil i think its commin from the bottom of the pump or behind the pump thats the cover for the anitfreeze passages if im thinkin right but correct me if im wrong then also too my steerin pump and steerin gear is leakin too i know mopar1973man said a few thangs but im gettin ready to take out the pump and i may take the VP and take all the hoses off and inspect and clean but is there any adjustments on the steerin gear bc i got alot of play in the steerin and just hope it aint out of round? but holler back and see what yall think! -
this was about a 100 miles ago or alittle less one of my powersteering lines were clogged and i clean and rebled the system when i putted the fluid in it i over filled it just a little bit but i just noticed this evenin that i lost about a pint and i can not figure out where its goin and also another think i noticed was the fluid was a light brown and it smelled like oil but i putted fresh fluid in it but i dont if this is normal but i purty sure it aint
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I have a question for you guys.My sister in law has a 96? CTD, and the side of the truck and the motor says it has a 24 V Motor, I thought that the 24V's were from 98 up. It looks like a 12V motor as far as the IP goes ect. What's up. Could it be an "early 24V" motor? ..............
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question, does ur eng harness have the tps plug, just hanging? think its a 3 pin.... -
Recently bought my 2nd 97 12v. Currently has a long warmup cycle 20 miles + and was going to replace the thermostat (with a big block per Michaels suggestion) Turns out I have a small amount of oil in my coolant :sad4:. both the thermostat and oil cooler have formagasket and the heater core was recently replaced. I am suspecting that the oil cooler was recently checked or replaced and perhaps the form in place gasket is not so good. Question is what year make and model thermostat do you suggest? Secondly does the oil cooler break down and leak with age like the heater core? I do not seem to have coolant in the oil and am hoping it's a problem that replacing the gaskets on the oil cooler will fix. Hopefully not a blown HG. Any suggestions welcome.ThanksRich
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In short, yes. Though we will not have devastating results from not using it like the next generation cummins, it does help the lift pump and all parts of the fuel system. I noticed a ticking in my lift pump one day, dumped in some 2-stroke and it fixed it right up. Another thing I noticed was it does not smoke as much in the morning with the 2-stroke. Having the timing up, the beast hates the cold and smokes like a freight train until the EGT's are over 400, but the other day, I started it and couple minutes later went back over and said uhhh, wheres the smoke! All I saw was a blue haze instead of a white cloud. I am not exactly sure how 2-stroke can have such an impact on smoke with a cold engine but the results were obvious. I also believe it helps with MPG, the added power is enough to keep you off the pedal just a little bit more keeping you over 20 as long as you are under 75mph.
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I know there are a lot of people wondering about where the "sweet" spot is on the cummins for mileage and I am here to tell you that there is no sweet spot. Speed kills. I have ran numerous tests and proven that every 5mph gain costs you 2mpg. A while back I was testing this theory and on a 70mph trip I got 21mpg, on a 60mph trip I got 25mpg, at 55mph I was at 26.6mpg. So I theorized that doing 65 on this 700 mile trip would yield 23, and I was exactly right. I got exactly 23mpg. Less RPM=less injections per minute. Less speed=less wind to push out of the way. It's simple, and it works. I know some people out their are claiming 26mpg at 70mph or something crazy like that but if thats the case, why aren't they posting 30+mpg numbers when they do 60! :confused:
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i just picked up a low mileage 95 12v 6bt engine at a slavage yard for next to nothing. its missing a few small parts but is pretty much complete. i am missing the belt tensioner, which i found on ebay. im also missing the idler/fan pulley pulley and bracket. will the 24v pulley/bracket be a direct bolt on replacement. the reason i ask is that there are a few on ebay right now and i was hoping to grab one. that or if anybody has one to sell that would be sweet. -
I decided to rewire the engine compartment a few weeks ago. I cut every wire in there and took every piece of black tape and ribbed sheathing off and have been left with nothing but wires. My plan is to put the PCM/Fuse Box/Grid Heater Relay on the hood, right on the back drivers side corner. I don't think there will be any issue with slamming the hood and everything getting shock absorption. I have some plans to absorb it a little anyways, though I don't think anything will happen. The initial plan was just to take the ribbed sheathing crap off in lieu of braided nylon sheathing, like what the cruise control has on it going to the throttle. I was going to put it on every single wire. After looking at it some more, I decided to redo everything, every part of routing it. By putting the pcm on the hood, I can get rid of the entire loom that runs along the top of the firewall. I starred at it some more and realized I can get rid of the entire loom that runs along the top of the engine next to the valve covers. There will be hardly any wires on it now and they will be hidden. I am going to use the fuse box for now, but I have plans on getting rid of that big piece of crap as well. This thing has taken me a long time because of how many wires there are and how to run them and where to run them and.... but I finally got one ran to the passenger side headlight lol. I have been working a lot so I don't have much time to work on this thing but I am going to aim for one connection a night now, be done by 2012
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Found something the mill was good for Yes I know it knocks Those things are mirror perfect now. You can see how they were when I pulled them, and a comparison of a polished to before, and just a polished one.
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I need some information on how to change out the injectors on my 95 12v, what the torque specs are and all that good stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks..
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I have a friend with a 98 12 valve. His fuel pump is going out. He wants to put a stock pump back on for $500.00 (includes labor). I told him to get a lifetime pump from one of the three big guns. Are the fuel pumps on the 12 valves as bad as the 24 valves?
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Just bought a 95 12v 5 speed with 278k miles, I've done general maint. to it, cut the factory exhaust off so could breath, put a K&N air filter on. I have noticed on this truck that it spins over more before it will crank than my 02 24v does. I would like a little info on that, and also what I can do safely to give it a little more power, since it has high mileage. Thanks for any info..
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I found a daycab 1995 Freightliner FL70 with a 5.9 12v cummins and a eaton 9 speed transmission. Can you guys list any reason I should/should not buy this compared to a Cat 3216 motor or was is 3126... The Cummins only has 120k miles on the truck as well! I'm going to be pulling a 50 foot car hauler 3-4 cars and a 28ft container, but mostly for the car hauler.Thanks.Oh, and do all the mods swap to this truck that the regular road trucks do? -
I don't know is this the right place to put this, but maybe you want to check it out. http://s163.photobucket.com/home/Juice70/allalbums
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Boy there is a lot of Cummins floating around with lot of miles! WARNING: Foul language is used... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=x64Ay8EnOhU -
ihave a 01 2500 sport diesle.i put anew tranny and tourqconverter in and after 300 to 400km the tourq will not un lock any ideas
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is there any reg maintenance I should be doing to my 95 other than oil,gas .BHAF,straight pipe,kdp done. streering needs addressed. don't drive it much but would like to make it have more power without spending 5000.
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Hi, I have a 97 4x4 club cab, 5 speed. I found a "cat back" 4" exhaust on Craigslist for $50.00. I'm trying to determine if the stock downpipe is worth the cost to replace (seems it's about 75-125) also. I believe it's 3.5" from the turbo down to the bend under the passenger seat (correct?). The truck is stock (and will stay stock) except for BHAF. I'm looking to make the motor exhale better, but not sure that the difference in the downpipe will be worth the cost. I occasionally haul a trailer (4.5 to 9 k) but the motor never gets hot, nor do I push it. What do you think? I'm also making the "cat " either go away or be just a hollow shell. I would appreciate input please....Thanks,paul
