Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine

Dieselfuture
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted

I really don't care to bother with oil sample and testing. By the time I reach 500k miles the truck will be 26 years old and ready to be replaced. I just going to make my journey back from the moon now and be happy. Again there is a lot of over the road truck out there making hundreds of thousands of miles in there life. I'm sure I can do the same without all the oil testing and special lubricants.

 

The other thing is regardless all lubricant have to meet the minimum requirement of the CJ-4 API grade. So at that point all oil are equal till each manufacture adds their special blends of additives to the oils to make it their own brand. The weights are all the same if your running 15W-40 all then have to flow the same at the different temperatures. So it just comes down to the additive packages or the bonus of each brand.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I really don't care to bother with oil sample and testing. By the time I reach 500k miles the truck will be 26 years old and ready to be replaced. I just going to make my journey back from the moon now and be happy. Again there is a lot of over the road truck out there making hundreds of thousands of miles in there life. I'm sure I can do the same without all the oil testing and special lubricants.

 

The other thing is regardless all lubricant have to meet the minimum requirement of the CJ-4 API grade. So at that point all oil are equal till each manufacture adds their special blends of additives to the oils to make it their own brand. The weights are all the same if your running 15W-40 all then have to flow the same at the different temperatures. So it just comes down to the additive packages or the bonus of each brand.

I'd have to agree on sampling part, but getting back from the moon I think you might be home already. According to some people on internet moon is a lot closer and might not be there as a chunk of rock in orbit at all, but rather just a facade for something behind it, I now sounds crazy but how would we know anyway. Little of subject.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes you can run ZDDP in your truck. It's made specifically to stop premature wear on high pressure surfaces such as the tappets. The shop that machined my engine does man high hp (bully dog truck), stock hp, and medium hp builds and he requires it in all new motors because much of the zinc has been taken out of today's oils. 

 

His exact word were: "If anyone is running conventional oil, which I prefer you should put some sort of zinc additive in to keep from wearing the high pressure areas. I have personally rebuilt 4 engines that were 2013 or newer that had cam lobes worn off. I also run 1 bottle of ZDDP in my 12 valve just to make sure things are lubed properly. You will more than likely be just fine running without additive in older, broke-in motors but chancing it with a new motor just isn't smart."

 

Take that as you will; I know I will run ZDDP in my truck for the rest of its life.

What brand of zddp do you put in your oil and how much, Thanks.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted
His exact word were: "If anyone is running conventional oil, which I prefer you should put some sort of zinc additive in to keep from wearing the high pressure areas. I have personally rebuilt 4 engines that were 2013 or newer that had cam lobes worn off. I also run 1 bottle of ZDDP in my 12 valve just to make sure things are lubed properly. You will more than likely be just fine running without additive in older, broke-in motors but chancing it with a new motor just isn't smart."

 

My question is where the engines stock or modified? I can see modified engine with a puppy behind the wheel eating cams and other engine parts. But stock engine with normal human driving I don't see where you'd need it. Would be a good idea for break in process but as a constant use I would say no for a daily driver. But racing another story because its a modified engine and special requirements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Staff
JAG1

JAG1

Posted
  • Staff
Posted

Mike, I remember you suggested I go to a main Chevron oil distributing Co. and by bulk CI-4 OIL. Which the only way to get it.

My 1st gen has had CI-4 almost all it's 400 k miles and when I put in the CJ-4, only 3 times now, I notice differences that make me want to go back to the CI-4. I know it's better oil so I will be ordering a 55 gal. drum from Chevron. They deliver free at least.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Vais01

Vais01

Posted
Posted (edited)

I really don't care to bother with oil sample and testing. By the time I reach 500k miles the truck will be 26 years old and ready to be replaced. I just going to make my journey back from the moon now and be happy. Again there is a lot of over the road truck out there making hundreds of thousands of miles in there life. I'm sure I can do the same without all the oil testing and special lubricants.

The other thing is regardless all lubricant have to meet the minimum requirement of the CJ-4 API grade. So at that point all oil are equal till each manufacture adds their special blends of additives to the oils to make it their own brand. The weights are all the same if your running 15W-40 all then have to flow the same at the different temperatures. So it just comes down to the additive packages or the bonus of each brand.

There are a few oils out there claiming API CJ-4 (non brand name) that are not CJ-4 rated oils or even 15W-40. I say this only to say one thing. Use a reputable oil company's oil so if anything happens you can be almost 100% sure it's not your choice of oil that caused the failure. Rotella 15W-40 has roughly 1220 PPM of zinc. Rotella T6 averages just a bit higher in the 1300 PPM of zinc. Private testing averages are where I drew those values. Edited by Vais01
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Vais01

Vais01

Posted
Posted

Mike, I remember you suggested I go to a main Chevron oil distributing Co. and by bulk CI-4 OIL. Which the only way to get it.

My 1st gen has had CI-4 almost all it's 400 k miles and when I put in the CJ-4, only 3 times now, I notice differences that make me want to go back to the CI-4. I know it's better oil so I will be ordering a 55 gal. drum from Chevron. They deliver free at least.

Marine oil is CI-4 but is only recommend with non biodiesel blends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted

Mike, I remember you suggested I go to a main Chevron oil distributing Co. and by bulk CI-4 OIL. Which the only way to get it.

My 1st gen has had CI-4 almost all it's 400 k miles and when I put in the CJ-4, only 3 times now, I notice differences that make me want to go back to the CI-4. I know it's better oil so I will be ordering a 55 gal. drum from Chevron. They deliver free at least.

As for me suggesting I will suggest buying bulk but CI-4 most likely not. Like here it very very hard to come by.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...