Greaseable UJOINTS

[JOHNFAK]

Ok - I sure seem to be fining weird stuff lately.

 

Rang around for A spicer 1480 ujoint today ...... couldnt get one. Settled for an Advanced Auto Part #295 Greaseable Moog Ujoint (20054BF).

Installed fine.

 

When i finish buttoning her up ....... I notice 2 things.

 

1) The grease nipple wont go all the way in ........

2) There is a small amount of play ...... say 1mm ..... rather than being pure tight on the end caps with teh straps. The cclips appear tight.

 

Thinking its probably they need grease - load up the grease gun - but it doesnt seem to want to go in ...... spills out everywhere. Not sure if this is due to nipple not fully seated ....... but wouldnt think it needs to be far in to provide passage.

 

Anyone seen this before - slop in ujoints if not adding grease ??

 

I typically always use the nongreaseable.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Being all I got locally is NAPA I typically just get grease-able u-joints. No issues here.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/U-Joint-Rear-Driveshaft-at-Transmission/_/R-PUJ295_0408505239

[Dieselfuture]

I think something is out of wak, grease shouldn't keep it tight it should be tight to begin with, but not too tight. Sometimes they come with different thickness clips to use that would shim them but not sure on your application. If you hammered hard on the old joints or even new you could of bent something.

[JOHNFAK]

Well I pulled away from the yoke and measured everything out thinking I got something jut slightly out of spec.

The book calls for 4.188 inches or 406.5 mm......

I measured around 407.5mm for the safety tabs inside to inside ...... and around 407.1mm for the ujoint length itslf.

 

I took the end caps off and added some grease and got the nipple in further using some pliers ...... put her all back together. There is still play ..... but seems very minor.

So unsure if it was the grease ...... or just me being a little particular last night ........

 

on we go .....

[Dieselfuture]

Is this on rear driveshaft where it connects to rear end, if so guy at Sadler power train claims that some of them yokes go bad not sure where or how but he said they replaced a few on doges and a lot of times they just put a bigger one on and ether use a conversion joint or weld a new end on driveshaft.

[JOHNFAK]

I think if I keep the truck I will head to a 1 piece ..... and have it all balanced true at a shop.

Right now since my 3 months spedor abs/ordeal I have to get everything to where I need it ........ so tackling the small outstanding things now.

 

Rear Ujoint and chase down small vibration when not locked up - if I get lucky done here

Some small rust and paint issues - mostly done but need to revist

Get her on a dyno.

Remove some CC of fuel out of injection ....... different set of injectors on there way to test, play with pump (rack/starwheel/afc housing etc)

If do this ^^ then drop the secondary to a smaller turbine and compressor (62/65/12 instead of 63/71/14)

Fix a slight steering pull to left under braking - and possibly new front rotors/pads.

Then possibly adjust timing, valves, fix a small exhaust leak ..... so on an so on  

 

Never ends ...... sometimes its fun ......sometimes its ......why am I doing this

[JAG1]

Hang in there John, I know there are many times I've had stretches with many trouble free miles.

[dripley]

My list, although different, is about as long. Need some time at home to do them. Good luck with yours John.