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Thought I had my trans sorted out but unfortunately that's not the case. Currently the TV lever on the side of the trans pushes back so hard I'm unable to push the throttle pedal down much beyond idle. I'm unfamiliar with how the TV interacts with the VB so I have no idea what could be causing this. I need to know if this is something that I would be able to fix tonight or if I'm just screwed. 

Edited by The_Hammer

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  • If you are looking to dive into the tranny I would suggest you ask Dynamic for his recommendation, he is VERY knowledgeable about this type of stuff.

  • I think it was on purpose to be honest. Before all this I was having issues with my converter slipping so I took it back to the shop (before I knew better). I was told my converter was shot (rem

  • Just a final update: I finally got the T/V cable adjusted and my shift timing is very nice. All of the issues that I had before stopped once I installed the new VB. My shifts are quick, firm, yet

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  • Author

I ended up getting sicker overnight then the job got cancelled due to rain. 

This is my only vehicle so I have to figure this out asap. The only trans shop anywhere around here is the one who screwed me over so that's a big ol' negatory ghost rider. I can rebuild engines, differentials, hydraulic pumps, hydraulic cylinders, ect, but a damn automatic transmission eludes me :doh:

I'm thinking I may just have to drop the VB and see what's going on. I need to pick up either a FSM or ATSG manual, not sure which would be better.

I appreciate any and all information :)

  • Author

Well, I've decided to pull the trans and go through it so I can verify what parts were actually upgraded. I'm not taking the word of the of shop as they've proven themselves to be nothing more than crooks.

I downloaded the ATSG manual (from the ATSG site) and have been going over it for a while now, doesn't seem too bad actually. I'm going to inspect the VB and if it's good for a core I'm going to buy one built by a known reputable company who has the ability to function test their units. Needless to say this is no longer an emergency so feel free to move or lock this thread.

 

 

 

My 47re had the shift linkage over tightened (by me) where the post sticks out of the valve body. It made the TV cable very sticky and you could feel it in the throttle. I loosened the shift linkage so it was snug but not binding the inner control post. I tested it by hand to make sure the tv cable moved freely, and problem solved.

If you are looking to dive into the tranny I would suggest you ask Dynamic for his recommendation, he is VERY knowledgeable about this type of stuff.

  • Author

@isaac hall: With the TV cable removed, trans in N, you can't push the TV lever more than an 1/8" without pressure forcing it back.

@Me78569: I'll do that. I'm wanting to turn this from a "being so angry I want to beat a refund out of the jerk!" thing in to an enjoyable learning experience. So far I'm still leaning towards beating a refund out of the jerk lol.

I would be mad too, 

 

but I did enjoy building my trans, if I can do it anyone can.

  • Author

I Talked to Dusty at HTS earlier and he said it sounds like the TV bore is wore out and needs to be sleeved. He said he would accept my VB as a core so I'm getting one of his. I told him I was planning on going through the trans to verify what parts were actually upgraded and he said that if I ran in to any issues to give him a call. 

I'll keep yall' updated on how everything goes. This is an issue I haven't found on any forums so if a wore out bore is the confirmed cause it would be nice to add it to the database. :)

  • Author

So, what happens if part 331 and 332 are installed backwards? Meaning, you slide 332 on to 331, then flip it around and install it in the VB. That's how it was installed from the transmission shop. 

Screenshot_2015-11-12-17-36-17.png

Edited by The_Hammer

Sound to me like your tranny shop screwed up, maybe not intentionally, but it can't work right backwards. Hopefully that was your problem, but I would go trough as mach of it as you can and double check, could be more than just one mistake. 

  • Author

I think it was on purpose to be honest.

Before all this I was having issues with my converter slipping so I took it back to the shop (before I knew better). I was told my converter was shot (reman Suncoast triple disk from DPC) so after talking to DPC I sent my converter in for inspection. After cutting it open I was told that it appeared there was a lack of pressure coming from the VB, which caused the converter to slip. I told the shop who's reply was "bullshit, it's the converter". I told them to check the VB and after some arguing they did. Guess what? The guy hands me the converter clutch apply valve and says that it was sticking. He said my VB was wore out and that he could "fix me up" for $500, to which I declined. That's also when the front driveshaft fiasco started, which ended up with me threatening to lawyer up on them to get my front driveshaft back which they had tried to steal while giving me someone else's broken one that didn't even fit my truck. 

I've already ordered a VB from HTS, I don't want to take a chance of this one causing me any more issues. There wasn't any debris in the oil pan, filter, or magnet beyond normal wear, and the fluid looked like new. It has a billet input shaft, servo, accumulator, strut, and anchor. I'm going to replace the apply lever with a factory ratio billet piece as well. 

Because of screw jobbers like that shop I prefer to do everything myself. Put a new roof on my house, do all the electrical work (to code as well), install hardiplank, level the house, ect. Operate excavators, backhoes, dozers, trenchers, articulated loaders, graders, cranes, ext. Welding, fiberglass, paint and body work, ect. 

  • Author

After double checking the anchor it turns out that it's not billet, so it's being replaced as well. I don't believe this trans was running much (if any) over stock pressure.

  • Author

I ended up pulling the input shaft to see what it actually was. Turns out it is in fact a billet two-piece made by TCS.

I installed a billet 4.2 apply lever and billet anchor, there was a billet strut already installed so it stayed. Bolted up the new VB from HTS, installed the trans, filled it up, and was off for a test drive. 

The VB made a noticeable difference, (besides actually working lol) it feels like I'm really putting the power to the ground. I just need to fine tune the T/V cable to get the shifts where I want them and I. Idle pressure should be around 95psi and WOT about 180psi. 

Edited by The_Hammer
Posting from a phone sucks

  • Author

Just a final update:

I finally got the T/V cable adjusted and my shift timing is very nice. All of the issues that I had before stopped once I installed the new VB. My shifts are quick, firm, yet smooth. My converter used to lock so hard that I would always back off the throttle right before it locked, now it locks up firmly without feeling like I'm going to twist my trans apart. I'm also enjoying having full fluid flow in park, I no longer have to put it in N to fill the converter (check valve is removed). All in all I'm VERY happy to finally have this sorted out :cheers:

Great to hear it is solved.  Now onto fun things.

  • Author

Having a solid understanding of how this transmission works and knowing what upgrade parts are actually in it has given me the confidence to move forward with the fun stuff. With all the problems it was giving me I was afraid to add a bigger turbo and injectors, or even a GSK. 

  • 2 months later...
On 11/23/2015 at 11:43 PM, The_Hammer said:

Having a solid understanding of how this transmission works and knowing what upgrade parts are actually in it has given me the confidence to move forward with the fun stuff. With all the problems it was giving me I was afraid to add a bigger turbo and injectors, or even a GSK. 

Great article Hammer. Your explanations were easy to follow. It's sad to see crooks in business stealing from folks that don't know better. I'm not one to cause issues but I don't run from them either, can't run that fast, In the old days before there was a lawyer on every corner you could have pulled this guy in the back or out to the rock pile and whip him like his father should have.

Not taking away from anything you pointing out, where did you find a book or reference on the 47re and the pressures, understanding the hydraulic system and the flow and so on.??

I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the transmission too, if it wasn't for all the great members of this forum that take the time to read and answer back with suggestions I wouldn't be learning anything about my truck and how to maintain it. Great report Hammer, God bless all of you.

  • Author

@Greenlee

Trust me, I wanted to give that guy a beating of legendary proportions icon_smile_angry.gif.abdd420a946b8f00cd1

I download a copy of the ATSG service manual and read it cover to cover. https://www.atsg.us/atsg/chrysler-manuals-1/46re-47re-48re.html

I also watched some youtubee videos showing the basic principles of how an automatic transmission works. If there is anything I can help you with please let me know. 

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.