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Lift Pump/ Fuel Supply Question


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I would say that if you pull the relay power from the VP relay and the pump power from a constant on fuse it would only run the fuel pump when the VP has power.

Otherwise, you can find another relay that is on when you need the power to the pump. 

Another idea is to pull relay power off of DRL's or head lights relay. The head lights would have to be on for the pump to get power.

Relay power actuates power to the device.

That being said, it would definitely be better to fix which ever issue is causing the problem such as a pump drawing to much power. Test pump resistance to ensure it is, or isn't, the problem. 

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5 hours ago, dripley said:

 

5 hours ago, dripley said:

Mine will not do the first prime if you repeat it immediately. If I wait 15 to 20 seconds it will. I believe I have read here somewhere that that is normal. The ECM has to reboot for it to do the prime again IIRC.

Thanks for that , I was hoping someone would say they had this also . Might be a diff between 99 ecm , and 01 that I have now or the newer 99 flash I put in it

Truck runs well now , had an old Edge ez , now has Smarty S03 , which was a godsend to find that it can flash a blank ecm , instead of going to the stealership , seems to work better with the 75 hp injectors too , plus now I have high idle , I lived in CA and had to take off some stuff when smog happened , ez had a carb sticker on it ,now in NV and can breath again


 

5 hours ago, catnhat said:

I ran the relay like this picture

Fuel Pump Relay.gif

The red fuel pump  power wire I taped the power wire on the factor plug

That's how I planned to do it , but I might pull power from the alt ,or the PDC . I live in an area where I couldn't find a socket for the relay , didn't want exposed spades under the hood , had to order it on line

4 hours ago, eddielee said:

I would say that if you pull the relay power from the VP relay and the pump power from a constant on fuse it would only run the fuel pump when the VP has power.

Otherwise, you can find another relay that is on when you need the power to the pump.

Another idea is to pull relay power off of DRL's or head lights relay. The head lights would have to be on for the pump to get power.

Relay power actuates power to the device.

That being said, it would definitely be better to fix which ever issue is causing the problem such as a pump drawing to much power. Test pump resistance to ensure it is, or isn't, the problem.

That would be a good way to draw power with a bad ecm signal , but I think the IP relay power from ecm is not shut off during cranking the starter , might cause air up against the IP , causing a hard start

The service manual says "Normal current flow to the pump is 12 amperes . Mode 1:100 percent duty-cycle with a minimum pressure of 10 psi except when the engine is cranking . Mode 2: 25 percent duty- cycle with a minimum pressure of 7 psi with the engine cranking "

Power windows are shut off during cranking , as long as the truck fires right away with no other probs ,causing long crank before firing ,it works well as an alternate to the ecm signal being no good

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52 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Not sure about anything these days but, I think Dripley has his pump connected to the alternator somehow. Like I said I'm not sure how to do that one.

You are right. I forgot thats how I hooked it up. It was a method in the AD instructions and the wiring harnes was set up to do that. I have the hot on the back terminal of the alternator and it is grounded to the mounting bracket. never had any trouble out of it.

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  • Staff

That's bad news. I wonder if you could take it to a local electrical engineer for repairs.

One big enemy to the ECM is heat so that is why I installed an outside air cooler directed at the ECM with isolation washers between the engine block and the ECM.

As you can tell, I have too much time on my hands when off work.

Edited by JAG1
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40 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Where you clear about it being a Cummins Diesel?

I was clear about it and it may have been the year that sent him over the edge, not sure.

Mine is a 1999, they may do a 2000, or 2001-02. Not sure, didn't ask

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13 hours ago, JAG1 said:

That's bad news. I wonder if you could take it to a local electrical engineer for repairs.

One big enemy to the ECM is heat so that is why I installed an outside air cooler directed at the ECM with isolation washers between the engine block and the ECM.

As you can tell, I have too much time on my hands when off work.

That's interesting , the service manual makes a point to say "Do not apply paint to back of ECM . Poor ground will result ."   Are they metal washers?  I thought about heat being the cause of my ecm failure , I towed my fiver over the sierras from Placerville to NV last summer and the truck didn't like it much , had to stop 2 times to cool off

14 hours ago, eddielee said:

I contacted them and they said they have had bad luck with the Dodge ecm's and weren't doing them any more.

If you can find a 01 ,02 ecm that's blank or not, at a yard , and someone with a smarty so3 that will un- vin lock it from there truck , it only takes about an hour to call smarty and have them e-mail you the 99 auto or manual files and drivers to load into the smarty , then plug it into the osbd on your truck , couple of minutes later your good to go ,its easy if I can do it anyone can, im not very computer  literate .Plus them wit a newer year ecm you don't have to worry about scrambling your ecm with a programmer . You do then have to re- load the catcher files into the smarty to give it back  to the guy who loaned it to you  . You will have the 99 files on your comp for future use  .  For me it was worth the cost of the smarty to not deal with Dodge . If I had Cummins try to do the ecm it would have been a 99 for sure and they take the files off the damaged ecm and re install them into the rebuilt one , so it they are corrupted , you end up at Dodge anyway , Dodge wont let Cummins have the flash files or even a service manual for a Dodge truck

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18 hours ago, JAG1 said:

That's bad news. I wonder if you could take it to a local electrical engineer for repairs.

One big enemy to the ECM is heat so that is why I installed an outside air cooler directed at the ECM with isolation washers between the engine block and the ECM.

As you can tell, I have too much time on my hands when off work.

Pics? Write up? Curious about this myself!

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  • Staff

Well I took the ECM off and used nylon washers between the block and the ECM to reduce heat transfere. I then added a nice size ground wire from one of the mounting studs to the battery negative post.

Next I found some old shop vac hose that I added so it would scoop cooler air from under the front bumper and directed it to go between the ECM and the block.

Mike says I got too much time on my hands but, when I'm the last guy in the world to have a functioning ECM I know I'll have to have a full time guard watching my truck so Mike won't pilfer it.:lol3:

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28 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Well I took the ECM off and used nylon washers between the block and the ECM to reduce heat transfere. I then added a nice size ground wire from one of the mounting studs to the battery negative post.

Next I found some old shop vac hose that I added so it would scoop cooler air from under the front bumper and directed it to go between the ECM and the block.

Mike says I got too much time on my hands but, when I'm the last guy in the world to have a functioning ECM I know I'll have to have a full time guard watching my truck so Mike won't pilfer it.:lol3:

I might add a diode to the ground wire back to the battery so AC couldn't travel back into it.

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47 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Thank you... I'll look into that

you need one more thing to do. Mike might be right. Take the F'ing day off and forget about the truck, job, or what ever. Get a 12 pack and polish your toe nails with a belt sander. That will take your mind off some crap.

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