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What happens if you don't do an apps reset?


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OL is overload.  The volts that you are measuring are too high for the range you have set.  You shouldn't have to measure in mV mode.  Set it to measure in 0.000 V.

 

That DVM will work just fine.

Edited by Hawkez
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Okay.. received your message before I walked into Sears.. lol ran the test in the parking lot. Set to 0.000 .. I measured from each battery first.. drivers side fluctuates 0.044 - 0.050  passenger side 0.035 - 0.039 

Positive lead touching metal connector around large black wire on alternator and neg lead to passenger neg battery terminal. . I get 0.108 - 0.110

 

Can someone tell me if these measurements are in range or out of range... or are so whacked that I'm still doing it wrong? I'm sooooo ignorant :-(

Edited by dodgedieselnewbie
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According to Mikes article on this...

 

"Normal output of the alternator is 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC but when flipped over to AC Volts it should never rise above 0.1 volts AC. If it does then you found your AC noise source."

 

So it looks like your literally on the cusp of being in and out of normal range, which would probably explain why this issue seems intermittent for you.

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New development.. I was checking all my connections and tested some more with no change. I pulled the plug on the back of the alternator and see white residue in the plug.. 

 

How do I clean this connector.. can I spray anything in there? Compressed air only? I plugged it back in and the reading got worse... up to 0.2xx   :-(  

 

Help!

 

yvqO6hLl.jpg

Edited by dodgedieselnewbie
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I can't really tell either.. but I don't think so.. too much white stuff in the way. I can't tell if it's corrosion or the white part of the plug is disintegrating. 

 

Edit: I just got a got a paperclip and pulled out some of the white stuff.. it's a pasty cream texture. Some kind of grease? Should it be there?

Edited by dodgedieselnewbie
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2 hours ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

Positive lead touching metal connector around large black wire on alternator and neg lead to passenger neg battery terminal. . I get 0.108 - 0.110

 

FAIL... Anything over 0.1 AC volts is a fail...

 

0.010 to 0.030 Normal good alternator working normally.

 

0.050 Marginal. Some issue are reported typically and random in nature comes and goes...

 

0.100 FAILED. Diodes are shot and allowing too much AC voltage through.

 

Beyond the 0.1 and up you start to see electronics failures like ECM, PCM, or VP44 more commonly.

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Not according to the dude working there. I questioned him... He said I had to know which one I had. I didn't drive the truck there so he couldn't look at it. I'm going to Napa tomorrow. They're more knowledgeable there. 

 

The Denso was $135 while the Bosch was $240

Edited by dodgedieselnewbie
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Well... I ran around to 4 different auto parts stores. I asked if I could check for AC noise and a couple looked at me like I was nutzzz as I explained why. I put my meter on them at 2 stores but couldn't get an accurate reading. It bounced all over the place. Not sure why... but one guy was so argumentative with me.. I was getting ticked off. He said you can't believe everything you read on the internet and said it was probably my transmission. I said.. no.. I trust the info I was given and when I unplug the alternator I don't lose lock up. 

 

Anyway.. I bought one at the parts store that the woman was most helpful and understanding. She said if the AC voltage   doesn't measure up (down) and I continue to have issues with lock up.. no problem bringing it back. 

 

Found this break in the sheathing when I removed the alternator.. that I taped up until I can replace.

 

dGpxAISl.jpg

 

It's installed and all seems well. No lock up issue anymore and no TPS low voltage code. Yay! Thanks Mike!!!

 

I reset my Apps too.. I kind of liked it before I reset it. I actually need to step on the pedal now instead of just resting my foot on it.. lol

 

 

Edited by dodgedieselnewbie
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