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Fed up

hex0rz
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JAG1

JAG1

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Michael nelson says use non metallic organic pads to save the life of the rotors. I know he is correct as my 425,000 mile 12 valve has had them turned only once. The guy turning them could not believe  that it was originals on a 92 first gen.:lol3:

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leathermaneod

leathermaneod

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This all reminds me of my experience a little over a year ago now when I had a local Cummins service center do some work on my truck right after I bought it. They couldn't get the injector lines to stop leaking at the head. They tried telling me the head was cracked, then they tried thread sealant, which worked but was the wrong answer in my opinion. I finally told them to forget it and id fix it myself. A couple hours, carefully tightening and some scotch brite had the leaks stopped. I went back to show them and have them redo the new tapper cover gasket that had popped out of place a day after they installed it. I showed the service manager how I fixed the leaks and he asked if I was interested in a job lol anyway, overall a very bad experience with them. Now no one else touches my truck unless it's really necessary. As far as rotors go, I recently had to add new ones to my truck. It had some nice grooved ones on it when I got it, but they were badly pitted. I wanted to get them turned, but it was looking like it would have been more expensive than new ones, if I could evenfind someone to do it. Nice thing about autozone, they have lifetime warranties on everything including pads and rotors as well as many other things. 

Edited by leathermaneod
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JAG1

JAG1

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9 hours ago, IBMobile said:

                I've seen how you stop

      200ACM771VX.gif

I downshift coast a lot makes them tailgatin'  folks go around.

 

It's funny.... a lot of folks must be testing their brakes cause they sure speed up so they get to stop hard at the light. Taking about my 5 speed 1st gen DD.

Edited by JAG1
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Like my own rotors. At 185k miles when I did my first brake job. I had them turned on a lathe and trued.I had them measured bofore and after and only took .040" of a inch on the worst one to get it true again. So here I'm at 267k miles and still rolling on my OEM rotor and my second brake job no issue. 

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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In the seventies and early eighties the only time I would machine rotors, there was a brake lathe where I worked, was if the brakes went metal to metal. This was with the asbestos pads. 

When semi-metallic pad were introduced I stared to see brake rotors warping and rotors wearing out in 2 to 3 sets of brake pads, also a lot of noise complaints.

 I'm still up in the air about ceramic pads.  I haven't had much experience with them. The talk about them is they "do" and "don't" wear out rotors, less dust that doesn't stick, quiet,  last longer than other types of pads, don't dissipate heat very well and not good for heavy duty braking.      

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hex0rz

hex0rz

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Ceramics eat your rotors quicker than metallics. Pads are cheaper to replace than rotors if you go metallic. 

 

One thing that I'm really irked about is i have to remove the lug studs to do the brakes. I wish they would have of thought about that earlier than my truck...

 

I did find an auto shop that had a brake machine that could turn my rotors while still on the truck but they wanted 30 a rotor. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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5 minutes ago, 01cummins4ever said:

its oem or semi metalic for me, I would never consider ceramic pads due to brake fading and rotor warping due to high heat, i

 

Exhaust brake first, budget pads second. Typically it's very rare for me to even touch my brakes being I do major of stopping on the exhaust brake. Budget pads so I have the lowest content of metal in the pads to prevent eating the rotors. 267k miles and still using OEM rotors yet, turned once and never been replaced.

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01cummins4ever

01cummins4ever

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Exhaust brake first, budget pads second. Typically it's very rare for me to even touch my brakes being I do major of stopping on the exhaust brake. Budget pads so I have the lowest content of metal in the pads to prevent eating the rotors. 267k miles and still using OEM rotors yet, turned once and never been replaced.

yep, you got it going on with your set up, with the auto trans our trucks are probably working 3 times as hard as yours trying to stop, I haven't looked into alternative braking for the auto trucks a lot, but do know they are available, maybe one of these days when the funds are right. but until then I will just keep throwing pads on, I'm on my second set of rotors at 280k, but I change pads about every 40 or 50k and they still have life left in them when I change them

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KATOOM

KATOOM

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I have rear drums and and the proportioning valve for the rear axle and my brakes work very good.  As Moparman pointed out, exhaust brakes make a huge difference in overall wear and tear of service brakes since you learn to rely on the retarding power of the exhaust brake to do most of the "slowing".  "Stopping" is still reserved for the service brakes though. 

 

I replaced my front pads with only 115k on the truck.....and there was almost 1/4" of material left.  Why did I change them?.....well I'm not really sure.  I guess I had the new ones and I had everything apart so why not.  And maybe because I know that when the caliper pistons extend too far then they can start sticking upon retracting them back in place.  Heck, the pads were only $50 or so.

 

Yes, on the rear drums you have to make sure the star wheels remain properly adjusted, which can be more problematic in high corrosion areas.  If using the e-brake while rolling backwards doesnt allow them to click every so often then you have to pull the drums and see if the adjusters are seized up from corrosion.  Other than that, simply being hard on the brakes will generally cause more long term problems than not and eventually reduce braking ability.

Edited by KATOOM
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