Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes

[Me78569]

Does the hot idle skip happen with TPS = 0?  

 

 

 

[TJ_00Cummins]

@Me78569 been a while, my torque convertor issues was just a low fluid level...added like 4 quarts and no issues.  Went to the drag strip today, had a great time and the truck performed flawlessly.  Lvl 5 seemed to supply too much fuel, so i went to lvl 4.  Hardly any smoke thru the entire run.  Left on 20psi.  Ran a 12.8 at 106.  Made 13 passes today all consistent between 12.8 and 13.2 with minor adjustments to the tune...i think ive got her pretty close.  Any tips as to what i could do to better utilize lvl5?

[Me78569]

It might just be too much fuel for the air you have.

 

You can drop fuel stretch, but that is really the same as just leaving it on lvl 4.

 

Did you try more or less timing?

[24v oil dropper]

On ‎2‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 7:29 PM, Me78569 said:

@JDHudsn tunes so far

 

Stock injectors.

 

 

Would these be good tunes for stock injectors and stock turbo? I see stock injectors listed at the top, just trying to wrap my head around all of this!! SO MUCH INFO!

 

Just noticed it didn't put the tunes in the quote for whatever reason... They are near the bottom on page 3 of this thread.

Edited May 9, 2017 by 24v oil dropper

[Me78569]

Give them a try. 

 

With Stock injectors you can be as aggressive as you want with the canbus fueling.   

 

Don't be afraid to be dumb with your canbus fueling, YOU CANNOT HURT ANYHTING with the canbus fueling stuff.    as an example a smarty offidle will ask for ~%150 of oem fueling.  I am pretty sure Quadzilla is gonna open up the canbus % to be anyhting between %50 and %150  from 0 -30 psi.  

 

so make your canbus fueling curve as aggressive as you like.  Max it out if you want haha.  

 

once you are happy with canbus fueling then start working with wiretap tuning.  Don't try to tune canbus and wiretap at the same time.

 

The only thing you should remember is you want your tune to give you full resolution of the throttle pedal, you want %50 throttle ot be %50 power at a given RPM, and %100 throttle to truly be WOT.  

[24v oil dropper]

Thank you! That makes me feel better for sure. I can't wait to try these out and start experimenting! I'm sure I'll be posting back with more questions haha, you've been very helpful on cumminsforum as well, my handle is "12valveSilverado" over there. I wanted to change my name so they would both the be the same but I don't know how to LOL

Edited May 9, 2017 by 24v oil dropper

[TJ_00Cummins]

On 5/5/2017 at 6:44 PM, Me78569 said:

It might just be too much fuel for the air you have.

 

You can drop fuel stretch, but that is really the same as just leaving it on lvl 4.

 

Did you try more or less timing?

@Me78569 sorry for the slow reply, work has been busy.  I tried both with the timing.  Its set at 16, 19, 21, 23, and 25 right now.  Im also noticing what appears to be some hazing at idle, and at low rpms (less than 1500) while cruising at any speed.  

 

Timing? 

[Me78569]

mechanical injectors.  Since we cannot alter injection pressure we have to accept that we can only atomize so much fuel through that size of a hole.  

 

  Try a touch more timing in the hope for a longer burn.  

 

Keep in mind I am no tuning guru, try stuff out and see how it works.  

[Me78569]

Quote

Another Stock injector truck tune from CF

 

DAILY TUNE-

Power Levels: 6

Timing-
MAX Load Timing Offset: 2
Low PSI Timing Reduct:3
Timing Reduct Scaling: 100%

Light Throttle Timing Adv: 2

Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30

Max Valet mode power - 25%

Timing vs rpm-
1500: 17
2000: 19
2500: 23
3000: 25
Timing Max: 26

Wiretap-
Pump Stretch: 1500
TPS Pump max: 100%
TPS Pump Min: 25%
Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0%
Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 10

Boost Scaling: 40

RPM Limit: 3400

Power Reduction:

0 PSI %:100
1 PSI %:102
2 PSI %:102
3 PSI %:103
4 PSI %:105
5 PSI %:106
6 PSI %:108
7 PSI %:109
8 PSI %:110
9 PSI %:112
10 PSI %:113
11 PSI %:115
12 PSI %:116
13 PSI %:118
14 PSI %:119
15 PSI %:121
16 PSI %:122
18 PSI %:126
20 PSI %:129
22 PSI %:132
24 PSI %:136
26 PSI %:139
28 PSI %:143
30 PSI %: 147

 

HOT TUNE-

Power Levels: 6

Timing-
MAX Load Timing Offset: 2
Low PSI Timing Reduct:3
Timing Reduct Scaling: 100%

Light Throttle Timing Adv: 2

Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30

Max Valet mode power - 25%

Timing vs rpm-
1500: 16
2000: 18
2500: 23
3000: 25
Timing Max: 26

Wiretap-
Pump Stretch: 2200
TPS Pump max: 100%
TPS Pump Min: 0%
Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 50%
Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 0

Boost Scaling: 40

RPM Limit: 3400

Power Reduction:

0 PSI %:101
1 PSI %:103
2 PSI %:105
3 PSI %:107
4 PSI %:110
5 PSI %:113
6 PSI %:116
7 PSI %:119
8 PSI %:122
9 PSI %:125
10 PSI %:128
11 PSI %:131
12 PSI %:134
13 PSI %:137
14 PSI %:140
15 PSI %:143
16 PSI %:146
18 PSI %:149
20 PSI %:150
22 PSI %:150
24 PSI %:150
26 PSI %:150
28 PSI %:150
30 PSI %: 150

 

Edited June 15, 2017 by Me78569

[TJ_00Cummins]

@Me78569 dyno'd the truck today, made some adjustments to the timing, canbus, and pump stretch....this was the end result.  Pretty happy with it.  Curve looks pretty nice to me.  Thoughts?

[Mopar1973Man]

Impressive...

[TJ_00Cummins]

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Impressive...

Is it? Cant tell if there is sarcasm there lol

I saw that u liked the post.  Sorry, been up for like 36hrs....lol

Worked all night then went right to the dyno.

[Me78569]

31 minutes ago, TJ_00Cummins said:

@Me78569 dyno'd the truck today, made some adjustments to the timing, canbus, and pump stretch....this was the end result.  Pretty happy with it.  Curve looks pretty nice to me.  Thoughts?

I'd like to hear your thoughts about tuning haha you know more than my at this point.

[TJ_00Cummins]

Thanks for all the help guys, seriously.  I was lost without this forum.  Thanks for dealing with a ton of dumb questions and helping me learn a little bit!

[Mopar1973Man]

16 hours ago, TJ_00Cummins said:

Is it? Cant tell if there is sarcasm there lol

I saw that u liked the post.  Sorry, been up for like 36hrs....lol

Worked all night then went right to the dyno.

 

 

Being honest... I'm impressed, it's good power curve and 551 HP / 1055 TQ is nothing to sneeze at. I'm curious of the tune your running for this?

[TJ_00Cummins]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Being honest... I'm impressed, it's good power curve and 551 HP / 1055 TQ is nothing to sneeze at. I'm curious of the tune your running for this?

Thanks I appreciate it.  I will post the tune tomorrow when i get back to town.  I actually ran Lvl 4 and made more power than Lvl 5.  I will post it when i get home!

[TJ_00Cummins]

On 10/28/2016 at 0:15 PM, Me78569 said:

Power Levels:. 6

 

Timing

Fuel Load Timing: 2°

Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2°

Timing Reduct Scaling: 100%

Light Throttle Timing Adv: 0

Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 0

Timing vs rpm

1500: 17

2000: 19

2500: 22

3000: 24

Timing Max: 26
 

Wiretap

Pump Stretch: 1800

TPS Pump max: 100%

TPS Pump Min:  20%

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 25%

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 0

 

Boost Scaling: 38psi

 

RPM Limit: 3700

 

Power Reduction: 50%

 

0 PSI %: 74

1 PSI %: 74

2 PSI %: 75

3 PSI %: 76

4 PSI %: 77

5 PSI %: 78

6 PSI %: 79

7 PSI %: 80

8 PSI %: 81

9 PSI %: 82

10 PSI %: 84

11 PSI %: 86

12 PSI %: 88

13 PSI %: 90

14 PSI %: 92

15 PSI %: 94

16 PSI %: 96

18 PSI %: 100

20 PSI %: 104

22 PSI %: 108

24 PSI %: 112

26 PSI %: 116

28 PSI %: 120

30 PSI %: 120

 

@Mopar1973Man here is the tune.  I think ive got everything in there lol

Edited June 15, 2017 by Me78569

[Mopar1973Man]

25 minutes ago, TJ_00Cummins said:

Timing vs rpm

1500: 17

2000: 19

2500: 22

3000: 24

Timing Max: 26

 

 

I was curious about the timing setup your running. I want to compare your timing setup and see if it was close to what I was running and now gives me kind of a feel for the power curve. I know your injectors are different but should be close.

 

This is my cruise as of right now. 

 

Timing vs rpm

1500: 17.5

2000: 20.5

2500: 22

3000: 24

Timing Max: 25

 

The only tweak is I'm running 5.5* of timing for cruise and cruise boost level to 12 PSI. This nets me around 20.5* at 2K RPM's. When I drop out of cruise it retards about 1 degree (fuel load timing)

Edited May 15, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[martinique78]

On 3/29/2017 at 10:32 PM, Me78569 said:

tell tail sign of the ecm memory doing hte way of the buffalo. 

 

The WTS light is the light to show that the ecm is turning on. Think of the WTS light as

 

I seen this post a while back and I wanted to correct you on this.  The wait to start light is actually an indicator for the pre-heating of the intake air heaters during cold starts.  Ford has a similar light and its for the pre heating of the glow plugs.  GM has an instant start system (which i use to calibrate for GM) and an intake air heater.  The wait to start has nothing to do with the ECM starting up.  I dont have a wait to start light on my Fummins swap and i go right from off to crank without waiting.  I'm giving this knowledge from 15 years of diesel cold start calibration experience.  We even tried to supply Cummins with our grid heater for some time but they are the if it's not broke dont fix it kind of company lol.

Edited May 30, 2017 by martinique78

[Me78569]

9 minutes ago, martinique78 said:

I seen this post a while back and I wanted to correct you on this.  The wait to start light is actually an indicator for the pre-heating of the intake air heaters during cold starts.  Ford has a similar light and its for the pre heating of the glow plugs.  GM has an instant start system (which i use to calibrate for GM) and an intake air heater.  The wait to start has nothing to do with the ECM starting up.  I dont have a wait to start light on my Fummins swap and i go right from off to crank without waiting.  I'm giving this knowledge from 15 years of diesel cold start calibration experience.  We even tried to supply Cummins with our grid heater for some time but they are the if it's not broke dont fix it kind of company lol.

 

 

The WTS light has 2 roles,

 

Role 1 is to tell you that the ECM is booting.

Role 2 is obviously to let you know if the grids are firing.

 

The two do not happen at the same time.  When you key on the first thing that should happen is the WTS light should flash on then off ( if warm).  If it is cold then the light will stay on as the grids are cycling.  

 

If you key on and never see the WTS come on then it means that the ECM is unable to boot and the truck will likely not run. 

 

Same goes when you program the ECM you will see the WTS flashing as it is being programmed.  

 

Point being that the WTS light is an indicator for more than just the pre heat cycling.