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Killer dowel pin and type of blocks


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Anybody  know if the manufacture of our blocks makes any difference concerning the killer dowel pin? 

 

I've don't have number 53.  Only have very small numbers.   Supposedly Mexican block.

 

But wondering if both blocks have KDP problem or just one or the other.

 

I'm coming up on 100,000 miles,  maybe not worth the hassle of checking KDP anyways.  When do most dowel pins fall out?

 

Thanks

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I heard people say they almost lost one at 80k and some say 300k +, you never know. best thing is to open it up and look, like mentioned above its rare on VP44 blocks but it is a posibility especially on early models. I did one on 12 valve that had 250k and it was half way out, but that's not the only thing that falls out, all of the front timing cover bolts were lose too, I took out the ones I could put some lock tite on them and other ones just snuged back  down. also might as well change front seal and power wash radiator and cooler and do a vent mod. 

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I heard people say they almost lost one at 80k and some say 300k +, you never know. best thing is to open it up and look, like mentioned above its rare on VP44 blocks but it is a posibility especially on early models. I did one on 12 valve that had 250k and it was half way out, but that's not the only thing that falls out, all of the front timing cover bolts were lose too, I took out the ones I could put some lock tite on them and other ones just snuged back  down. also might as well change front seal and power wash radiator and cooler and do a vent mod. 

 

Vent mod??? ...Talking about slobber tube?  That's the only "vent mod"  that comes to my mind.  Any others?

Thanks

Edited by 015point9
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Thanks…never saw the "vent tube mod" before.  Looks like really good idea.

To play it safe,  I better check the dowel pin.  Which brings up other questions.

 1.       Best way for backyard mechanic to clean radiator?…spray with (dish soap or simple green etc) , let it soak and then pressure wash?

2.        Anything else I should do or replace going that far in?

3.       I need a special tool to remove the fan right?

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  • Owner
14 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Best way for backyard mechanic to clean radiator?…spray with (dish soap or simple green etc) , let it soak and then pressure wash?

 

Remove the radiator completely and power wash from both sides. You might want to use a better quality degreaser that really clean up the caked greasy oil. This stuff really works good.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759

 

16 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Anything else I should do or replace going that far in?

 

Front seal would be a good thing. Double check all your gear case bolts on the inside too.

 

16 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

I need a special tool to remove the fan right?

 

I highly suggest you buy a 36mm fan wrench and a fan pulley holder. I know of people using a punch rod and knocking the fans off with a hammer. Not a good idea being it puts stress on the hub bearing do that. Just shortens the life of the bearing. It is a left hand thread so think backwards.

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The bolts on the inside...

1. Remove and lock tite them to be sure?

2. Where does one find the torque spec's on them?

 

What is your opinion to seal up case...

RTV then gasket then RTV again?

RTV only (no gasket)?

 

Off hand "guessimate"...how many hours to R&R?

 

(WOW, this project bigger than I thought)

 

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All I did was pull the cover clean everything up. Installed my front crank seal. While the cover is off, just retorque the bolts you can get at with the cover off. Clean your mating face up and with ultra gray silicone glue your gear cover back on. As for the KDP I've got the same thing of the updated case. As for odd report I've seen a single reported 2002 Dodge Ram with a KDP repair and seen the actual Dodge Dealer repair bill. Very rare, but there were a few that got in the pile. DSCF6456.JPGDSCF6462.JPG

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