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Quadzilla Adrenaline Economy and MPG


Mopar1973Man

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Since @Me78569 and company have the tuning thread for performance side. I'm going to start the ecomony and MPG thread for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. I'll be posting up my MPG logs and all data I can provide of what I've got going on. I've been keeping hand math logs of all fuel purchased as well as my tablet running OBDII link LX and data logging from that direction too. I'll share my tunes and settings as well. 

 

QUADZILLA TUNES CURRENTLY LOADED (Check back often file is updated at random times)

 

 

Quadzilla Ardrenaline.xlsx

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Story line...

 

Being I've got MoparMom dialysis trip I've got to do every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday I've got at least 362-mile trip to Boise and back home. Now it's 4 hours of driving to get to Boise, and then she is there for 4 hours, then 4 hours to drive home. So, this gives me good time for focusing on MPG tuning for a single day.

 

Ok,  got some figures for you guys to toss out. I'm sure you all going to roll your eyes like what I thought your doing better than that. I know my tablet is very close to correct but there are a few factors to be aware... Idle time is one factor. Being it has been so cold I've spent many days going back out to fire up the truck to keep the dog from freezing to death in the truck, some days I would go back out to the truck and take a nap or if I had MoparMom with me I would leave her in the truck idling to keep her warm. The tablet cannot track idling fuel consumption at all. Now, high idle 3 or 6 cylinder produces enough load that it is tracked knowing the consumption rates I don't normally use them for very long. Also, there are days around the house where I don't fire up the tablet or have it in the truck so those trips to the dump, local town, were not tracked. There is a few you'll see I did fire up and shows a way low reading. 

 

jan.jpg

 

Now the tablet... The tablet isolates by days not by tank to tank runs like the spreadsheet above. So I'm do my best to make sure from this point that I'm data logging every single trip to getting closer matching number. Remember the tablet below is by day and not tank. The spread above is tank by tank and logging idle time (staying warm in the cab) where the tablet can't.  I tend to favor the tablet more so being it allows me to be free for some days and play and work hard without worrying about destroying my perfect MPG logs for tank to tank. Which just one show off run or one good heavy trailer run will do that and bring the spreadsheet numbers down fast. Where day to day you can focus for the day and buckle down and then relax the next day. Much more flexable. 

 

Screenshot_2017-02-03-07-57-01.png

 

So remember... Some of my weather has been bit cold... (dated)

2djpc1g.jpg

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Mine is not much different than your fill up logs. My truck idles a good bit on the job since it is sometimes my office. But I have never seen 24+. The best I have seen was a couple trips running bio mass diesel on pure interstate run where I got just over 22. Appreciate all the hard work. 

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ECONOMY TUNE

 

TUNE PARAMETERS

Number of Power levels:  7

RPM Limit:  3500

 

VALET MODE PARAMETERS

Maximum Valet Mode Power:  20%

 

PUMP TAP PARAMETERS

Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1800 microseconds

TPS Pump Maximum: 100%

TPS Pump Minimum: 25%

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0%

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 11 PSI

Boost Scaling: 40 PSI

 

TIMING PARAMETERS

Fuel Load Timing: 2*

Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3*

Timing Reduct Scaling: 100%

Cruise Timing Adv: 4.5*

Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit: 10 PSI

 

RPM TIMING MAX

1500 RPM: 17

2000 RPM: 19

2500 RPM: 23

3000 RPM: 25

Max: 26

 

BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS

0 PSI:100

1 PSI:101

2 PSI:102

3 PSI:103

4 PSI:105

5 PSI:106

6 PSI:108

7 PSI:109

8 PSI:110

9 PSI:112

10 PSI:113

11 PSI:115

12 PSI:116

13 PSI:118

14 PSI:119

15 PSI:121

16 PSI:122

18 PSI:126

20 PSI:129

22 PSI:132

24 PSI:136

26 PSI:139

28 PSI:143

30 PSI:147

 

This is my current tune I'm running. Now I'm kind of bind coming to the new "Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit" being when you do crank up to 80 MPH your bobbing up and down the boost pressure between 10-20 PSI depending on the roll of the land. So this tends to make the trigger point way too high for slower travels. 80 MPH is a real tough one to keep going and getting good MPG's. One day it can show great numbers and then another day be rather low. The other part is making sure you not tripping into your wire tap state. This why I've got my minimum TPS value set high to 25% to give a wider range of throttle without wire tap and not rely on the boost pressure. The other thing I'm seeing is when it does lock into cruise state it does jump up to about 20* to 20.5* of timing which is about right but when it kicks out its dropping to 14.5* to 15*. Now I kind of wondering if the fuel load timing is the problem here and drop it to ZERO.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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3 minutes ago, dripley said:

How do you install this or any of the others? Do you have to key all this info in?

Do you have an andriod phone? If so load the APK In the thread pinned to the top of the page.  Play with it.

 

 

Mike, Why not just bump your cruise timing psi to say 15 psi?   For me at least I almost never sit at 13-20 psi,  If I am at cruise I am below that and if I am on the throttle, even a little boost is above 20 psi. Is your truck less cut and dry?

 

also Tyler pointed out a bug, if you are using CC and the quad kicks out of cruise state timing due to a load spike or boost spike the quad will show you OEM timing on the screen, it is sitll using quad timing.  I will fix that  but don't think too much into what timing is doing when CC is on and cruise state is disabled.

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8 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Mike, Why not just bump your cruise timing psi to say 15 psi?   For me at least I almost never sit at 13-20 psi,  If I am at cruise I am below that and if I am on the throttle, even a little boost is above 20 psi. Is your truck less cut and dry?

 

I wasn't sure how it would work out with the slower canyon driving. So I was trying to keep it lower. But why not its all beta testing...

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Exactly.   I wouldn't worry to much about timing being too high at say 55 mph if cruise locks in.  It should be low enough to be troublesome.  If fuel does spike and load jumps then you should easily clear that 15 psi limit.  

 

 

Another reason why I love my VGT haha I can literally set cruise boost pressure.  I am able to do 80 mph at 2-3psi of boost 

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2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

@Mopar1973Man  I think you need a couple jerry cans and a scale.  Gas weights #7 per gallon.  Weight the can before and after you fill your take from a section of road.  That should give you exact amount of gas used for a trip even if you don't fill up hahahhaa.

 

:shifty: 

 

Be careful. Cetane levels will change the weight of diesel fuel. 

 

Again be careful... I don't run GAS in my diesel engine... I run FUEL... :wink:

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Ok... 

 

I learned a bunch more today. I was bugged about the offset of the hand math and the data logging of the OBDII link. So I started digging and doing some math against the numbers. So what I did was found entries and average out the pair MPG numbers and then calculated the percentage difference of the two numbers. I was seeing roughly 11-13% offset. Ok. Plug in +13% to the OBDLink and ran today. Numbers matched up good when I re-did my calibration. But I still was liking the numbers. Now after having the injector issue (as I posted in the other thread) I back off the timing the 2* and now I can clearly see odometer to fuel gauge a good gain in MPG but the OBDLink is even lower in MPG's. Basically just changing the timing curves on the Quadzilla will impact the calibration of the OBDLink for logging. So I'm back to the drawing board and getting thing back to calibrated status.

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7 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Are you running a cruise timing of 2 now?

 

Changes are in bold.

 

ECONOMY TUNE

 

TUNE PARAMETERS

Number of Power levels:  7

RPM Limit:  3500

 

VALET MODE PARAMETERS

Maximum Valet Mode Power:  20%

 

PUMP TAP PARAMETERS

Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1800 microseconds

TPS Pump Maximum: 100%

TPS Pump Minimum: 25%

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0%

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 10 PSI

Boost Scaling: 40 PSI

 

TIMING PARAMETERS

Fuel Load Timing: 2*

Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3*

Timing Reduct Scaling: 100%

Cruise Timing Adv: 2.5*

Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit: 15 PSI

 

RPM TIMING MAX

1500 RPM: 17

2000 RPM: 19

2500 RPM: 23

3000 RPM: 25

Max: 26

 

BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS

0 PSI:100

1 PSI:101

2 PSI:102

3 PSI:103

4 PSI:105

5 PSI:106

6 PSI:108

7 PSI:109

8 PSI:110

9 PSI:112

10 PSI:113

11 PSI:115

12 PSI:116

13 PSI:118

14 PSI:119

15 PSI:121

16 PSI:122

18 PSI:126

20 PSI:129

22 PSI:132

24 PSI:136

26 PSI:139

28 PSI:143

30 PSI:147

 

The only thing I can figure out why I've got to back down to your suggested 19-20* total cruise timing to 17-18* (2.5* cruise timing) is because of hole size of the injectors. Since I'm a much smaller nozzle and compared to you @Me78569 my atomization is finer and easily ignites. So over advancing was more or less getting the flame started the tip of injectors making them hot. Then when you come down to an idle state after a long run the pintles started hanging up a bit trying to pop at idle pressures. Now backing dow to the lower timing I've found that the MPG changed for the good (rise), idle miss is gone (injectors are cooler). 

 

This again shows more timing is NOT always better for economy. 

 

Now that I'm fairly happy with my timing table my next week I'll work on getting back to a good calibration on the OBDLink which I've also found a super simple way to calibrate. Basically, fill the truck make your run hopefully to return the same day to fill again. Now note the MPG of your hand math and the MPG shown by the OBDLink. Now head over to percentage difference calculator and plug in your two numbers. Now ADD this percent number to your current volumetric setting on the OBDlink. If you want a better average effect then like I did with my logs figure an average number for a month of fills and then use that number. This what I was going to use for calibration to hopefully pickup some of the wild idle offset. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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So in my case when I did it and turned out correct. OBDLink number in the V1 position and hand math in V2 position. So now if the results is a minus make sure to add the sign to your math. 

 

So if you had for example 63 on the volumetric setting and the calculator gave -8.4 for a result then you would add 63+(-8.4)=54.6 would be your new volumetric result.

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