Grid heater manual control...

[Royal Squire]

Can you put a battery disconnect switch in those wires?

[Mopar1973Man]

So simple to just take a 1/2 wrench unscrew the nut slip the wire off. Replace the nut. Do it twice a year, once in the spring (April) and then again in the fall of the year (October). I wouldn't use a battery disconnect because of the high current loading of the grid heater. It would be very possible to have a fire caused by a weak connection of the switch as the grid heaters draw 195 Amps during the initial key ON. So This is way the grid heater is directly wired to the battery because of less likely of weak connections during high load operation of the grid heaters. 

 

We are taking 195 AMP load here so it's always best to have a good solid feed of power. Any weak connection will cause huge amount of heat and possibly a fire. 

Edited April 26, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[Cowboy]

WE NEED FANCINESS!!!!  If that means burning the truck to the ground, then it was worth it!  Lol

 

Seriously, if you really want it, the right battery disconnect switch will do fine.  The couple dozers over here all have a battery disconnect switch that all the juice goes through, that includes the starter.  Another option is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP90250-250-AMP-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00TPKZV82

 

Even doubles as a circuit breaker.

Edited April 26, 2017 by Cowboy

[Mopar1973Man]

Nice idea... 

 

Then I would take that mount it to the fender or firewall use slightly heavier gauge wire then omit the fusible links in the stock setup.  

[JAG1]

Just reread this thread. Thanks all for the informative talk. 4 Thumbs up 

[dave110]

A little late to the party. I was thinking of disconnecting the grid leads from the battery, and putting a heavy duty relay like those found on golf carts or snow plow setups in between. Then run the trigger wire to a toggle so you don't have to pop the hood all the time. I'd like to disconnect my heater once the truck is running even in the winter since it more than doubles the AC noise output of my alternator once it cycles. I have a lot of short trips and it seems my batteries never get charged in the winter once the grid starts to cycle. And some of my trips I never get to 20MPH to stop the cycling. It's always in the winter when my TC hunting problems start and then go away in summer. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Optimally... I would figure out the resistance the ECM needs to think there is solenoid in the system. Then you could wire up a toggle switch so the ECM sees the needed load to be happy but the solenoids are disconnected. This wouldn't require any heavy duty switch or relay then. 

 

Or you could buy a single grid heater relay and hook it up before the OEM one in the power lead and use a toggle switch for that one to connect and disconnect the power. 

[dave110]

Your second suggestion is exactly what I'm talking about.. It would be no different than manually disconnecting. You'd just be able to do it with the flip of a switch. I would think any 200A or greater relay would do like golf cart relays are 300A.

On another thought, why not switch the grounds on the original relays? That way there's no chance to damage ECM by a possible short to the power wires like mentioned above.

[dave110]

Just to update. I ran the relay ground wires to a switch in the cab. I tested it all last week while hunting. Close the switch to enable grids to start truck and once it's running open the switch to disable. Now till the end of the week my batteries were much happier because the grids were not stealing all the charge. I do get a code doing it this way but no CEL. Very happy I did it.

[Mopar1973Man]

You can't alter the grid heater trigger (smaller) wires only the power supply wires. 

[dave110]

Well, I'm not sure what you're implying, but I did what I posted and it works fine. Only side effect is the 2 trouble codes which is not a deal breaker for me.

[Mopar1973Man]

If you have vehicle inspections or smogging make sure to leave that switch on and reset the codes. ECM can sense the trigger wire failures hence the P0380 and P0382 code.

[Tractorman]

2 hours ago, dave110 said:

 Only side effect is the 2 trouble codes which is not a deal breaker for me.

 

I wired the intake manifold heater in my truck in the same manner right after I bought it in late 2001.  I mounted a momentary switch on the steering column so it is very accessible and cannot be accidently left on.  I don't mind the two codes that are set since I know what they are.  My truck has been wired this way for over 280,000 miles and has never required any repairs.

 

Mopar1973man makes a good point for those who live in areas that require vehicle inspections or emissions testing.

 

- John

[hex0rz]

What about utilizing this idea in a different fashion? Triggering the grids on so they stay on longer after 18mph to help the truck warm up better?