No start after fass install

[Towrigdually]

Prior to entering the garage the truck started and ran no problem, mechical fuel gauge worked, and had 3/4 tank, truck is 2002 ram 3500 24v h.o.

I've noticed over the summer the old airdog has been dying so I bought a new 95gpm fass pump.

completely removed the airdog fuel lines, wiring harness, mounts and everything needed for it.

Followed the instructions for the new fass install, I used a pre existing draw straw in the tank to pull fuel. installed the new fass pump, primed the system and hit the key to cycle the pump to push fuel into a bucket, ran about 3 gallons no problem, then hooked the the supply to the VP and opened valve for fuel gauge. Crack injector lines 1,3,4,5 then proceeded to crank the truck over till fuel came out, only got fuel lines 4 and 5. I then cracked 6 and still no catch anything. I closed all the lines then and tried to start and got nothing.

Also, codes are pcu 1693 and Ecu 0234 0230 0577 currently.

I tried hooking up the snap on scanner and it would read ABS but I couldn't connect at all to the ECM but after all this I'm at a loss, am I missing something here?

[Mopar1973Man]

Is the fuel squirting out of the lines or just oozing out? If it's just oozing out them more than likely the VP44 still has air in the pump. Typically it will take two rounds of 30 seconds of cranking. I rarely ever crack lines I just crank till it fires up. Typically within about 60 seconds of cranking total. If you cranking for very short burst you have the harder time getting it primed up. Every time you rest it bleeds the pressure off and the air bubble expands again. 

[LiveOak]

If you are using the factor fuel filter canister, you likely have air in it.  You will need to purge the fuel lines upto and through the fuel canister, then you can crack a few injector lines and watch for the definitely pronounced fuel spray, then tighten.  If you can get 2 or 3 cylinders to fire, the rest will push the air through the injectors and catch on.  The engine will sound like it REALLY does not like it until all the cylinders fire. 

 

I have the same year and type engine in my truck.  It is very finicky about any air in the factory fuel canister after changing fuel filters. 

[dripley]

The last time I had my fuel system open was to replace the lift pump motor. It took for ever to get it to fire. Never had any trouble before this getting it to fire off but it was a pain this time. I did everything you did with no luck. It did start not too long after a pulled the factory fuel filter. I think yours is just being finicky like mine was that time. If the pump is pumping fuel you just have some air trapped in there somewhere. 

[JAG1]

My truck is strange because after a whole new fuel system upgrade and new lift pump...... fuel draining out of the VP while doing the work, I was able to get it started by opening the fuel connection to the VP. I had to do it a second time (thinking no way will it work) after I needed to reroute one of the fuel lines. It worked perfect again, don't ask me how  cause I always cracked the injection lines before for years.

 

I think the VP is able to hold prime in the pressure lines even though the VP drains and then somehow let out the air thru the cracked fuel main inlet. All I know is it worked cause someone over torqued the pressure lines so I couldn't crack them open.

Edited September 4, 2017 by JAG1

[Towrigdually]

14 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Is the fuel squirting out of the lines or just oozing out? If it's just oozing out them more than likely the VP44 still has air in the pump. Typically it will take two rounds of 30 seconds of cranking. I rarely ever crack lines I just crank till it fires up. Typically within about 60 seconds of cranking total. If you cranking for very short burst you have the harder time getting it primed up. Every time you rest it bleeds the pressure off and the air bubble expands again. 

Yes It's just oozing out. I've tried in 20-30 sec intervals of cranking and barely getting fuel to 4 and 5 injectors. 

Is there a way to bleed the VP?

13 hours ago, LiveOak said:

If you are using the factor fuel filter canister, you likely have air in it.  You will need to purge the fuel lines upto and through the fuel canister, then you can crack a few injector lines and watch for the definitely pronounced fuel spray, then tighten.  If you can get 2 or 3 cylinders to fire, the rest will push the air through the injectors and catch on.  The engine will sound like it REALLY does not like it until all the cylinders fire. 

 

I have the same year and type engine in my truck.  It is very finicky about any air in the factory fuel canister after changing fuel filters. 

I wish I still had the factory filter setup. The previous owner hacked the factory system and the airdog upon install. 

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

My truck is strange because after a whole new fuel system upgrade and new lift pump...... fuel draining out of the VP while doing the work, I was able to get it started by opening the fuel connection to the VP. I had to do it a second time (thinking no way will it work) after I needed to reroute one of the fuel lines. It worked perfect again, don't ask me how  cause I always cracked the injection lines before for years.

 

I think the VP is able to hold prime in the pressure lines even though the VP drains and then somehow let out the air thru the cracked fuel main inlet. All I know is it worked cause someone over torqued the pressure lines so I couldn't crack them open.

I'll have to give it a shot to see if mine is doing the same. 

Would it be likely I would have to crack open lines from the VP supply connection, injector line on VP then lines on the injectors?

[Mopar1973Man]

1 hour ago, Towrigdually said:

Yes It's just oozing out. I've tried in 20-30 sec intervals of cranking and barely getting fuel to 4 and 5 injectors. 

Is there a way to bleed the VP?

 

Crank the line at the VP44 make sure there is fuel there. If so then cranking is the only way. 

 

Rare cases I've disconnected the grid heaters and given a light burst of starting fluid to get it to fire up. So while your cranking very quick spray of starting fluid typically will get it going. 

[LiveOak]

Is the pump (lift pump) coming on for a full cycle when you just bump the starter and release the ignition key?

Edited September 4, 2017 by LiveOak

[Towrigdually]

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Crank the line at the VP44 make sure there is fuel there. If so then cranking is the only way. 

 

Rare cases I've disconnected the grid heaters and given a light burst of starting fluid to get it to fire up. So while your cranking very quick spray of starting fluid typically will get it going. 

Thank you for the info. I'll Give that a shot tommorow when I get home from work

4 hours ago, LiveOak said:

Is the pump (lift pump) coming on for a full cycle when you just bump the starter and release the ignition key?

Yes it runs after I bump the starter. And I had someone listen to it while I was cranking and it runs then also. 

[LiveOak]

19 hours ago, Towrigdually said:

Thank you for the info. I'll Give that a shot tommorow when I get home from work

Yes it runs after I bump the starter. And I had someone listen to it while I was cranking and it runs then also. 

Just to ensure ALL air is purged, try loosening the fuel line fittings from the pump forward up to the injection pump.  You can do each fitting individually looking for a nice fuel spray.  Let it spray for a short moment looking for air pockets purging.  When a steady fuel spray appears, tighten that fitting.  This should take only few seconds at each fitting.  Normally this should be able to be done by just removing the cap from the OEM fuel filter canister, bump the starter and let the lift pump run until the canister over flows. I am not exactly sure of how your fuel system is configured so am playing it safe.   The OEM fuel canister you can manually fill and then torque the top tight or you can leave it setting loose on top of the canister and let it over flow and then try to tighten when it does. (this method makes a mess)  I have done both and prefer to just fill the canister from a known clean fuel container, allow for the new fuel filter to absorb the fuel, then install and tighten the plastic cap.  Move over to the VP44 pump and loosen the fuel line fitting and repeat the purge procedure.  Now bump the starter a few time to push as much fuel forward into the injector pump.  Finally loosen the injector lines to the first 3 injectors.  (more if you prefer)  Now you will have to turn the engine over with the ignition switch until you see a very pronounced fuel spray at each injector line fitting.  Continue for several revolutions of the engine to ensure all of the air in the lines is purged.  (yes this will make a mess).  Quickly tighten each fuel fitting as quickly as possible to minimize any air that may seep back into the fitting.  

 

Make sure all of your tools, rags, etc. are secured out of the way and accounted for.  Hold the throttle at about 50% and crank the engine over (ensuring you have a fully set of batteries).  Hopefully it will start and sound like a wounded buffalo but hold the throttle pedal at 50% and allow the engine to rev up but not over 2500 to 3000.  Hold this engine rpm until all of the other cylinders catch on and the run smoothly and push any remaining air through and out of the injectors.  

 

Hope this was not TMI.  This is what I had to do when my fuel sending unit went bad and I ran my truck totally dry on fuel.  Hopefully yours will fire right up as well.  Good luck! 

 

[Towrigdually]

Ok guys im sorry I haven't answered back in awhile, been busy with the farm. 

 

BUT! The good news is truck is back up and running, ended up having to pour diesel down the supply line and Romove the Allen head cap from the chrome top of the fass pump, then pour some in the hole also. About 10 mins later the truck was back up and running. It also really enjoyed the red dye diesel I primed the pump and lines with. 

[dripley]

Too much air in the system as suspected.

 

But happy you got it running.

Edited September 16, 2017 by dripley

[Mopar1973Man]

Ibe seen a few FASS systems that refuse to prime. Typically pressurized the fuel tank with air and have the line loosen at the VP44 pump. When fuel run out, just tighten the line and start the truck.