Jump to content

  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Odd spot for coolant.

903Dodge
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

Posted
Posted

I got the kit from genos, wanted new valve cover gasket just because and planned on putting new valve seals on, but after taking head to machine shop to surface and check for cracks discovered my valve guides were oveled out, so I had them put new guides in and do a valve job. 

Not sure on arp, I have the other kind that's no longer made I believe, forgot the name. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted
1 minute ago, DieselJunkie said:

That's a leaky head gasket. I've replaced 5 or 6 in the last 2 years due to that seepage at the passenger side front of the head. Certain 24v engines are prone to leaking there.

 

Hua?

 

Some of us have well over 15-16 years of age 300k to 400k miles and never changed a head gasket.

 

So either the head isn't flat. The block deck isn't flat. Poor quality head gasket. Head bolts are not torqued right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DieselJunkie

DieselJunkie

Posted
Posted

 

The first time I ran across that leak there I did a little research and found that 24 valves apparently have a tendency to leak there so I started inspecting that area every time a 24 valve came in and found a few more leaking there.

Mopar1973Man, While I've got your attention I was looking at an older post of yours from 2013 or 14 when you took a VP apart. I can go try to find the thread and post there but I'm looking for a source for the diaphragm on the distributor housing without buying the whole thing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Owner
Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

Posted
  • Owner
Posted
1 hour ago, DieselJunkie said:

Potato po tah toe.

:lmao::lmao2: I'm in Idaho so...

 

1 hour ago, DieselJunkie said:

Mine has a crack in the plastic where it seals on the inner o ring causing the accumulator to lose pressure

I actually have two pumps with this same issue. I haven't disassembled the second one yet but it is showing the same symptoms as the one I did take apart.

 

Hmmm... Might have to give Blue Chip a call and see if he will sell you the cover plate. Yes, I will not call it a diaphragm.:whistle: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DieselJunkie

DieselJunkie

Posted
Posted

From what I can tell the bad diaphragm causes hard starts and erratic idle. We run a lot of wmo on the old diesel junkers. Works fine in older mechanical fuel delivery engines and heui but the vp44 doesn't like it and after a while exhibits the hard start and erratic idle symptoms. I think it may be due to the wmo being too thick. We usually try to dilute it but sometimes not enough I guess. Still learning how to make the wmo work. The money we've saved on fuel is a lot though. Totally justifies the problems that comes with it. I put a 375 gallon tank in the back of my 99 24v, filled it up from a waste oil source without even filtering it and made a 4k mile round trip to the east coast and back from here to NM about 3 years ago. Didn't take enough fuel filters with me so paying $30 at the auto parts stores along the way was a little more painful than the $9 price we pay here on our fleet account but otherwise the trip was very low budget. I have since added a couple more large spin on filters down on the frame before the factory filter and pump and another electric pump to help push through them. The spin ons are even cheaper at about $3 each.

 

As far as the head gasket jobs go, it varies depending on how far the customer wants to go. Most of the guys around here want to chance just replacing the gasket without sending the head out to a machine shop unless they've overheated it or other problems become evident during the head gasket job. Mostly farm trucks or guys on low budgets. About $300 in parts and about $900 labor. The price can change a lot if the customer wants to do more but we aren't aware of any failures on the ones we've done so far.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
903Dodge

903Dodge

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Total cost for mine is going to be $2500 tax included. 

Removing head

Machince shop (Rebuilding the head and machine work if needed) $550 max (Could be less if no milling is needed.) 

Tappet cover gasket

Cummin Gaskets

Coolant 

ARP head studs (Could of saved $100 if I bought online.) $500

 

The biggest thing is the down time for the machine work. Up to 5 days here locally. 

 

I would do do it myself, but if you took into account the days I would have to take off, it would cost me more. 

Edited by 903Dodge
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing

Rate The Author

Please take the time and give the author a 1 to a 5-star rating for the information you have gained from anywhere on the website. All forum threads, articles, etc. If a members post is good information please don't forget to tell them "Thanks" or "Like"

Rate Us On Google

Please take the time and visit our Google Review page and give us a review of our services.

Tip Jar

If Mopar1973Man.Com has helped you with quick and timely information for your repair please consider tossing a tip in the Tip Jar

×
×
  • Create New...