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post-2-138698165088_thumb.jpgFor all of you that are looking to help you Cummins Turbo Diesel breathe better well there is several different kits, filters, etc. on the market. I'm not going to bend your arm to follow my lead but I will explain why I made this choice.First off there are filters like K & N on the market that are washable and re-useable. Well I'm going to suggest you forget using these filters. When you wash a filter your going to put wear on the media and eventually open holes up in the media to allow passage of dirt. Another problem is most people over oil the filters and the turbo sucks oil in on the compressor wheel. If there is a dirt leak you will see a dirt compressor wheel and it will cause turbo damage.So when you look at a BHAF or similar filter you will see a completely sealed unit. There is no way for dirt to get pass the filter into the engine. Also the BHAF is roughly 3x bigger than the stock panel filter so this allows more air to enter the engine unrestricted. Another bonus is the media is a dry paper element so the dirt will not stick to the media and cause it to plug premature.The down side to a BHAF is the price. They are roughly $50-60 bucks. So if your smart you buy a filter and get the outerwears pre-filter for it. It will protect the filter from heavy dust and water. It will make the filter last for a very long time.I've gotten about 60K miles on my BHAF now and it is now just getting really dirty.Here is also the listing of different part numbers for a BHAF below...Part Numbers of BHAF filters
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Good info on the traditional paper BHAF. I am running an AMSOIL Nanofiber 4510. It is also a dry filter and costs about the same as a BHAF. I can also clean it with compressed air. I still have my old BHAF that I used to run, and it was a great filter. I'd like to see comparative CFM testing side by side with the Nanofiber and the traditional BHAF. Based on many customer reports, the Nanos have yielded more turbo whistle, lower EGTs, and quicker "seat of the pants" spool up. Of course, the overall point to all this that I think most diesel guys will agree to is that the key to good air filtration on diesels is to run a dry filter. Oiled filters start to cause problems in the real world under the CFM demand stress of these engines.-Chuck

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  • 1 year later...
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I believe DD is one of many dealers for all AmsOil products... seen his posts on CDF. Amsoil sells a variety of nano-fiber cylindrical & oval filters for aftermarket air intakes as well as a drop in filter for the stock airbox. The nanofiber drop in filters better & still less restrictive than stock pleated paper. These finters can be cleaned with compressed air, restoring them to use.I had a drop in K&N oiled filter... did nothing for the truck & I pulled it back out. There are some really nice aftermarket intakes but they're just out of my price range (unless I hit the lottery!) I'm considering a drop in nano-fiber element for my stock truck.I read over on CDF, about someone who customized the stock airbox to take a cylindrical Nano-fiber filter. I had thought of this... I'm wondering if anyone else has tried it? Considerations: stock airbox is not all that big... limits filter size. Maybe ok for stock or light mods? Air into airbox is limited, additional air would undoubtably be advantagous. Thoughts anyone?Russ

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the main benefit to the BHAF is its size or surface area. more surface area = less energy spent drawing air. if you took your stock square filter and tried to "wrap it" around the BHAF you would notice that it would take at least 2 square filters to get the same coverage. i notice the a lot of "cold air intakes" used cone filters. in every case i looked at the cones were smaller than BHAF, therefore having less surface area. by removing the filter box your not forcing the intake through a little hole in the fender. on a side note, i skipped the outerwear and some leaves got in there. with the moisture from them it made the metal cover rust and the paper nasty in the top corner. i noticed it during an oil change. wish i had that outerwear now :) the damage is minimal thx to early detection(only a 1/2" spot near the plastic)

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  • Owner

Hey Jacob... Would you believe I lost my outerwear's profiler last year (wore a hole in it and only had it for a year) But my BHAF is 5 years old now with a 109K miles and still going with all the dusty dirt roads of idaho... A filter minder is a must to determine if the filter is actually plugged...

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yeah the hole thing.... make sure you do something about the studs left over from the stock airbox removal, I'm sure you did, but there are others that might just let the BHAF sit on them. Where I am there is so much dust you wash the car and 2 days later there is dust all over it. That's why I wash the truck everytime I change the oil. LOL

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I think the black looks nice. w/o an outerwears you will only get about 30k out of it, less if you live with dust. I was too cheap to buy one and now am ready to replace my 3rd BHAF since I bought the truck at 120k. You will spend about $80 for BHAF + outerwears shipped.

I think that i will do this to my 2002. i was thinking about an cold air intake, so i started to do a little research and found your info. No one has said anything about the fuel milage increase that they are getting. It makes since there would be some. Does anyone have any records of this?
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The reason people get BHAF's is because turned up trucks need more flow from the filter near the top end (when you build over maybe 30psi). I don't think there is any mileage effect. If your driving economically, then your not going to need much air flow, so any filter would do. Speed is the main factor of mileage. I lose 2mpg per 5mph over 55.

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when i did mine 2 years ago. i got 1mpg...but i think it was because of my trucks tune. my fuel system was in bad shape. i didn't have my airdog and the fuel pressure would get low and i would have poor performance.any increase in air will be matched with fuel as long as the ecm's map is stock(assuming you have a 24valve). a tuner might help.

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