New Issue P0230 - What should I do next?

[Dieselfuture]

Look around his site he has both 1/2 and 3/8. If it was me I'd just do it in 1/2 and be done with it. 3/8 is better than what you have but if you're doing the work you might as well. Biggest restriction is in fuel basket, unless you modify it to be truly 1/2 in there, no point in big line kit. There are fittings that are 1/4 or smaller inside of basket. Or do old stile draw straw, just a single 1/2 tube and return to filler neck. Just need to make sure you don't cut it too short, then you don't need to mess with fuel basket. 6 of one half of dozens of the other. 

And about running a line from tank to vp that's the whole idea of big line kit, you eliminate factory inlet line all together, and only going to use factory return from vp and back of the head.

Edited December 23, 2017 by Dieselfuture

[leety]

1 minute ago, Dieselfuture said:

Look around his site he has both 1/2 and 3/8. If it was me I'd just do it in 1/2 and be done with it. 3/8 is better than what you have but if you're doing the work you might as well. Biggest restriction is in fuel basket, unless you modify it to be truly 1/2 in there, no point in big line kit. There are fittings that are 1/4 or smaller inside of basket. Or do old stile draw straw, just a single 1/2 tube and return to filler neck. Just need to make sure you don't cut it too short, then you don't need to mess with fuel basket. 6 of one half of dozens of the other. 

 

Sorry for the likely dumb nub question but here goes:  What is a fuel basket?

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Vulcan Performance sells the big line kit for the stock filter to the VP44 injection pump.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-p/ffipn375.htm

 

Just found this debate!  Great stuff!

 

 

Based on what I'm reading there 1/2" appears to be the better choice.  There appear to be some smart folks around here.

 

 

[dripley]

FWIW,  my pickup is only 3/8" and in the basket, came that way from AD. It is suffecient to maintain good pressure. I do see about a 3.5 psi drop between idle and WOT but still maintain above 14 psi at minimum.  19 at idle and 15.5 at WOT. Knowing what I know now i would have put a 1/2" pick up in at the time. But as long as it keeps working like it does i dont see any need to change the size or the location.

 There is more than one way to do this and accomplish the same thing. Now comes the fun part, picking YOUR way to do it.

[Dieselfuture]

10 hours ago, leety said:

 

Sorry for the likely dumb nub question but here goes:  What is a fuel basket?

I believe right way to call it is fuel module, but we call it a basket. Maybe it's because it's full of surprises. Here is mine modified. Once you get yours out it will make more sense if you go that route. Picture where it's in the tank, top view, notice there is one fitting with a cap, that's old style draw straw that is cut about 3/4" too sort and I had to keep my fuel level above 3rd or every time I stop too fast or take off I'd be sucking air, and how you tell is fuel pressure drops and fuel pump becomes loud.

[leety]

11 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I believe right way to call it is fuel module, but we call it a basket. Maybe it's because it's full of surprises. Here is mine modified. Once you get yours out it will make more sense if you go that route. Picture where it's in the tank, top view, notice there is one fitting with a cap, that's old style draw straw that is cut about 3/4" too sort and I had to keep my fuel level above 3rd or every time I stop too fast or take off I'd be sucking air, and how you tell is fuel pressure drops and fuel pump becomes loud.

Thanks for the language translation.  I see we have another caviate that I was unaware of.  Good to know.  Every vehicle has them, the good news is they appear to be all known and mostly overcomable on these trucks.  Years of people tinkering and upping the engineering game on the shortcomings.  One of the cool things about this truck.

2 hours ago, dripley said:

FWIW,  my pickup is only 3/8" and in the basket, came that way from AD. It is suffecient to maintain good pressure. I do see about a 3.5 psi drop between idle and WOT but still maintain above 14 psi at minimum.  19 at idle and 15.5 at WOT. Knowing what I know now i would have put a 1/2" pick up in at the time. But as long as it keeps working like it does i dont see any need to change the size or the location.

 There is more than one way to do this and accomplish the same thing. Now comes the fun part, picking YOUR way to do it.

Indeed that is true!!!

 

I'm leaning in the direction of 1/2" lines with a redundant dual pump system, one mechanical, one electric @ the stock location on the block.  I'm a big fan of redundancy.  More research to do though before I decide.

[dripley]

If you still have the OE basket/module it will not look anything like the one in @Dieselfuture 's picture. That is for the in tank pump upgrade, and I use that term loosely. The OE is a good bit different but can still be modified.

[leety]

4 minutes ago, dripley said:

If you still have the OE basket/module it will not look anything like the one in @Dieselfuture 's picture. That is for the in tank pump upgrade, and I use that term loosely. The OE is a good bit different but can still be modified.

I do not have the in-tank "upgrade" is there something I should be considering doing to whatever is in my tank?

 

Do I need to drop the take or tip up the bed to connect the 1/2" line kit?  Would that be a good time to address this.  Unfortunately I have a full tank of gas right now and I'm doing this work on 3/4 rock so dropping the tank won't be too fun.  If I have a choice tip up the bed sounds easier.  Your thoughts?

 

[dripley]

I dropped the tank,  not hard to do. A lot of folks tilt the bed, sounds easy to do too. Never done that so I can't compare. I have a5th wheel hitch and decided to just drop the tank. I do all my work in a gravel drive also. I have a couple of foam mats like you use on a shop floor i lay on. A piece of plywood will work also. I have pulled my NV5600 twice using the plywood method. It works but a concrete floor would be nicer.

 If you are doing a draw straw outside the bsket/module there might not be any reason to remove the basket, don't know for sure. Vulcan sells this module under the name "Liberty tank module" I believe. Eric could tell you if it is the same. Just more money to spend. With what you are considering doig a good look at the basket would be a good thing to do. It might be on its last leg from age. Your fuel level sender is part of it also.

[leety]

1 minute ago, dripley said:

I dropped the tank,  not hard to do. A lot of folks tilt the bed, sounds easy to do too. Never done that so I can't compare. I have a5th wheel hitch and decided to just drop the tank. I do all my work in a gravel drive also. I have a couple of foam mats like you use on a shop floor i lay on. A piece of plywood will work also. I have pulled my NV5600 twice using the plywood method. It works but a concrete floor would be nicer.

 If you are doing a draw straw outside the bsket/module there might not be any reason to remove the basket, don't know for sure. Vulcan sells this module under the name "Liberty tank module" I believe. Eric could tell you if it is the same. Just more money to spend. With what you are considering doig a good look at the basket would be a good thing to do. It might be on its last leg from age. Your fuel level sender is part of it also.

Makes sense.

 

The fuel level sender is a must.

 

My philosophy, If you know something is going to go bad in the near foreseeable future, and you have the easy opportunity to replace it wile something else is apart, it's nuts not to replace it.  Seise the day!

 

Reliability is my primary goal here.  Fuel economy is #2.

[Mopar1973Man]

Fuel sender is pretty cheap and can be purchased at you local dealer. Make sure you keep after parts guy that you only want the level sensor.

[01cummins4ever]

2 hours ago, leety said:

 

I'm leaning in the direction of 1/2" lines with a redundant dual pump system, one mechanical, one electric @ the stock location on the block.  I'm a big fan of redundancy.  More research to do though before I decide.

GDP Fuel Boss Mechanical Belt Driven Lift Pump System 98.5-07 Cummins

If your thinking of going mechanical, give this site a try. Richard @ glasier diesel power will get you steered in the right direction, they have good instructions as to install and keep your factory lift pump for back up or priming if that's what your after.

I just installed the mechanical fuel boss a couple months ago after my raptor 100 crapped out . I chose the mechanical pump and also chose not to have a back up electric pump just to simplify the system, I really dont see the need for all the extra plumbing and wiring as these pumps are quite simple and reliable, but your opinion may vary..

I would also highly recommend dropping your tank (or removing or raising the bed what ever works for you) to install a draw straw and to make sure the inside of tank is clean being the fact that you probably dont know what condition its in, and starting out with a clean fuel supply is a plus. 

I do like having 18 psi. at idle and holding steady at WOT with no pressure drop.

[leety]

2 minutes ago, 01cummins4ever said:

GDP Fuel Boss Mechanical Belt Driven Lift Pump System 98.5-07 Cummins

If your thinking of going mechanical, give this site a try. Richard @ glasier diesel power will get you steered in the right direction, they have good instructions as to install and keep your factory lift pump for back up or priming if that's what your after.

I just installed the mechanical fuel boss a couple months ago after my raptor 100 crapped out . I chose the mechanical pump and also chose not to have a back up electric pump just to simplify the system, I really dont see the need for all the extra plumbing and wiring as these pumps are quite simple and reliable, but your opinion may vary..

I would also highly recommend dropping your tank (or removing or raising the bed what ever works for you) to install a draw straw and to make sure the inside of tank is clean being the fact that you probably dont know what condition its in, and starting out with a clean fuel supply is a plus. 

I do like having 18 psi. at idle and holding steady at WOT with no pressure drop.

Yes that's the one I was considering.  Great to hear your feedback.  I agree about looking into the tank to see what lurks.  Since the tank is virtually full and I'm working in gravel I see the bed removal as the best process for my situation. 6 to one half dozen to the other.  I agree with simplicity but will probably make redundancy a concern, it's kind my way.  Perhaps that's why I had 4 kids LOL.

[leety]

Finally got this figured out.  The wire on the lift pump was dangling.  It broke completely off when I took out the connector to test the pump.

 

The connector has since been fixed.  Once the wire was fixed I took the truck for a quick drive and the check engine light turned off on it's own.

 

Now I can pull codes again with the ODB2 scanning tools. I'm thinking the flaked out wire connected to the lift pump was the cause of the ODB2 communication failure.  Just a theory though.

 

Thanks for all the info ya'll very helpful.