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Did my VP go too?

Marcus2000monster
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notlimah

notlimah

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Well a sump is more simple then a drawstraw but there’s potential legalities with a sump. 

 

Generally leaks are pretty simple. If you’ve narrowed it down to the leak being somewhere in the tank you could drop the tank and remove the fuel module and tighten everything up, or worst case, change out all the fittings. 

 

But to answer your question, yes as long as the leak is actually in the fuel module.

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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Man idk what I should do. Dropping he tank and removing the bed is a pain in the A**!!!! I have the Draw straw dojo light as well put that in but gee it’s going to suck.... I was thinking about just getting a Beans sump so I wouldn’t have to drop the tank ilor raise the bed but heck I have a Draw straw on my bench. I’m sort of worried about 1/4 tanknissues tho. Hopefully the stRaw will solve my issues cuase I get madder by the day because the truck won’t run right! :doh:

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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17 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Well a sump is more simple then a drawstraw but there’s potential legalities with a sump. 

 

Generally leaks are pretty simple. If you’ve narrowed it down to the leak being somewhere in the tank you could drop the tank and remove the fuel module and tighten everything up, or worst case, change out all the fittings. 

 

But to answer your question, yes as long as the leak is actually in the fuel module.

Still questioning if it’s a leak or Bad VP44. Hoping the straw will tell me.... 

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If you are using your truck offroad at all I would steer clear of any sumps. If you hook that sump its game over for the fuel tank. Finding replacement fuel tanks are rather tough these days. 

Never been off road yet... I’m just going to tear into it and stuff that straw in there. Iv got a feeling it’s going to be a waste though.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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15 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Just put a draw straw in if you already have it, make sure you cut bottom like @Mopar1973Man and have it an 1/8 or so of bottom if tank is full. It will flex a little too. You can always put a cap on it if it doesn't work later and do something else.

 

I cut my straw flat on the bottom with the thickness of a single quarter coin. I lightly notched the tip with an angle grinder. I did all my measurements on an EMPTY fuel tank this way as the fuel weight will bow the tank away from the straw tip. This way as the fuel tank empties it will pull the bottom up towards the tip of the straw. 

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dripley

dripley

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Did you ever determine whether that you did have air getting into the system? Neither way will stop air infiltration if it is getting in after the fuel tank.  I personally would not cut a hole in the bottom of my fuel tank.

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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8 hours ago, dripley said:

Did you ever determine whether that you did have air getting into the system? Neither way will stop air infiltration if it is getting in after the fuel tank.  I personally would not cut a hole in the bottom of my fuel tank.

We think we narrowed it down to air getting in at the top of the fuel basket. So I ordered the Draw Straw to fix that. Still don’t know for sure that it’s air though. 

Couple more variables. First off the truck never starts hard! I have done a ton of research and looks like everyone with air leaks has hard start issues. Next right after I installed the Fass the 3rd time I started it with the new pump I got the crappy idle and a TON of white smoke. None of that smoke is there now. Just throwing that out there......... We’re going to get thus figured out and make her run good again!! Thanks 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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As for the sump idea... At any rate the seal or o-ring will fail eventually on that sump. Sure would suck later in life that sump seal is no longer manufactured. Then end up trying to patch a massive hole in the bottom of your fuel tank. I've already had two people down this road and fought to replace the fuel tank. 

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for the sump idea... At any rate the seal or o-ring will fail eventually on that sump. Sure would suck later in life that sump seal is no longer manufactured. Then end up trying to patch a massive hole in the bottom of your fuel tank. I've already had two people down this road and fought to replace the fuel tank. 

I done screwed that idea. Lol. Getting ready to go work on the truck again this morning. If the Draw Straw don’t fix it what should I look at next? 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I'm not sure what kind of connection fittings you are using. I'm using strictly Parker push lock JIC fittings. If you got any kind of Quick Connect fitting that will be part of the problem. The newer AirDogs I known use Quick Connect Fittings and are know for the o-rings to roll back and start an air leak only while pumping. Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performace about this he can explain it.

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm not sure what kind of connection fittings you are using. I'm using strictly Parker push lock JIC fittings. If you got any kind of Quick Connect fitting that will be part of the problem. The newer AirDogs I known use Quick Connect Fittings and are know for the o-rings to roll back and start an air leak only while pumping. Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performace about this he can explain it.

THe only quick connectmis on top of the fuel basket soon to be eliminated. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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2 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

THe only quick connectmis on top of the fuel basket soon to be eliminated.

 

My money is on this connection. I bet if you cut the fitting off and just hose clamped it temporarily it would solve the problem. Those fitting even back in the AirDog days in the early 2000's had issues. 

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