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Stock clutch torque and hp rating


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About stock power.  Some people have good luck with stock clutches and a bump in power, but I ruined one with a smarty that was only adding half of the advertised power gains.  Granted, I had the 13" disk, which has less friction surface area than you would think.   

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The stock SO clutch will hold up to around 75 HP over factory.  The stock HO clutch will hold slightly less at around 60 HP over factory.  That said, not everyone experiences the same results as some can hold a bit more or a bit less.  Driving conditions and what you're doing with the truck will play a role too.

 

On 3/22/2018 at 7:41 AM, Tom Robarts said:

In 99 they changed from the 12 1/4 inch clutch to the 13".  I'm thinking 250hp and 500ft/lbs but can't find anything to verify.

 

The 13" clutch wasnt introduced until late 2000 early 2001, and only for the 5600 transmission.

Edited by KATOOM
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Thanks for the information, helped out on what I was going to do in regards to a clutch. Finally my long painful and costly mistake of using anything South Bend clutch is gone!!!!! Yeah!!!!

Edited by tonyjsan
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3 hours ago, tonyjsan said:

Thanks for the information, helped out on what I was going to do in regards to a clutch. Finally my long painful and costly mistake of using anything South Bend clutch is gone!!!!! Yeah!!!!

 

You had issues with SB?

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11 hours ago, KATOOM said:

 

You had issues with SB?

Yep, over past 4 years have had 2 South Bend clutches and 3 sets of there hydraulics, all failed within year to year and half. I don't abuse my truck, it's daily driver and pull 13k RV. In addition I suspect the faulty clutches also contributed to having to replace transmission as well. 

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7 hours ago, KATOOM said:

Has this been discussed in any threads?  I'd like to know more but dont want you to have to retype everything if you've already done so before.

I've not posted about the issue(s) I had with the SB stuff.

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I like SB products.....but you should always let people know just for sake of knowing.  Ya never know what people already know or would like to know before they spend lots of money.  Like maybe ownership changed hands and quality fell off, or any other random possibility.

 

As long as its shared in a civil respectable manner that is since you dont want to step on vendor toes. :thumbup2:

Edited by KATOOM
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I have a SB ofe in at the moment. Prior to that I had a Valair organic clutch that I never liked due to the grabiness of that clutch. Since then I have seen a couple members here install the same clutch and they love it. That was not the experience I had with the same clutch. I like the OFE but it is still a touch grabby on launch but it holds like an ox. I would still like to find the smoothness of the oe clutch and I believe the OHD is the way I will try next. I had no trouble with the OE clutch, 75hp tuner and rv275's. This makes me lean toward the OHD even with the Comp I am running now. Just my opinion.

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I currently have a SB dual disc clutch in my 2017 DRW 6.7 G56 fully deleted with 550hp.  Except the rattle I love it.  It hooks up hard and holds.  The stock clutch burnt up in 12k miles at stock power levels.  It slipped the first time I hooked my little single axle SkiDoo trailer on. 

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43 minutes ago, Tom Robarts said:

I currently have a SB dual disc clutch in my 2017 DRW 6.7 G56 fully deleted with 550hp.  Except the rattle I love it.  It hooks up hard and holds.  The stock clutch burnt up in 12k miles at stock power levels.  It slipped the first time I hooked my little single axle SkiDoo trailer on. 

So is dual disc more for towing, how's daily driving/having fun with it. I've looked at dual disc option before but most say stay with a single disk.

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Once you get used to how the dual disk engages, daily driving/having fun is no different than a single disk.  It's always going to be more grabby than a single disk, and feathering it is almost out of the question. Stop & go traffic sucks pretty badly.  But, if you're looking at 7x0.010's, you're going to be around 1200 ft-lbs of torque, which almost necessitates a dual disk for you.

Edited by trreed
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Over the course of 5 years (and lots $$$$$), I’ve had to replace 2 sb clutch’s, and hydraulics. Prior to all this I had a stock clutch, not sure what the brand is but i’ve been told it was probably a Luk clutch.

 

I would also state I do my own repairs however, I don’t have the tools or place to due a diy job like clutch replacement so I have to rely on a shop, finding a shop where I live that know’s what the hell they are doing is a huge challenge. 

 

First SB clutch I had installed was a DD, based on my research and recommendations from the shop they advised I go with a DD, so I did. Immediately after the DD was installed there where shifting issues, blocking / resistance going into gear grinding, basically acted like clutch was not releasing as it should. The shop that sold me the clutch said that the shifting issues etc, where normal cause of the heavier clutch, takes longer to spin down etc. The shop that did the work refused to pull the transmission and inspect for possible damage as a result of the shop installing the clutch wrong.

 

I finally called SB and talked to someone called Peter (despite the very bad experience I’vd had with SB clutch, I give SB credit for having a very knowledgeable staff person, Peter.). After telling Peter like 1 issue I was having he immediately rattled off the problems I had been having. I was sent a new 13”single disk clutch kit, free, I still had to get the thing installed more $$$$.

 

The Single disk (sd) clutch worked for little over year then I started to have same / similar issues, blocking clutch release issues and slipping towards the end. Also about this time I had to replace the transmission as the synchro where bad (I suspect the faulty clutch(s) accelerated the wear), and another set of hydraulics. After the re-build transmission was installed the SD clutch failed big time, to get the truck in gear I would have to shut the engine off, put in gear re-start while sitting in traffic. The blocking was bad as well as an odd vibration. I believe the SD clutch had a broken hub spring or was warped.

 

With all this said, as a consumer I have a bad taste for South Bend products, as well as the local shop that originally did the work for me. Myself I will never buy another SB product, however I do give SB credit in the customer service department, based on my conversation with Peter at SB.

 

The lesson I’ve learned and my opinion for what it’s worth, is unless running a crazy amount of HP / torque DD clutches are not worth the money, a good single disk works just as good, even stock, as I’ve gone back to the stock clutch. I am also not running a lot of hp/torque, with edge comp on 4 maybe 350hp, 760 torque. If I ever go over that, then I’ll re-evaluate the stock clutch choice.

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Thank you for sharing tonyjsan..... :thumbup2:  I have to say that it sounds like you were the subject of shop who 1) didn't know what clutch you should have installed.  I always suggest that people call the clutch manufacture and have them tell you what they believe is the best for your application, not a third party shop who may be completely clueless.  And 2), you may have been dealing a mechanic lacking the necessary skills and knowledge for the job.  Or the new shop kid who's learning how to work on stuff was your actual mechanic.  That unfortunately happens often as people are shafted by the "professionals" who claim to be doing a service.

 

Nonetheless, I'm not hear to defend SB or their products, especially since you took the time to let others know of your experience.  I too work on all my vehicles because I have little to no faith in automotive shops.  I used to work as a mechanic when I was a kid and learned that those places dont care about much.  Often times the excuse for failed workmanship is to blame it on another part which they didnt touch.....

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21 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

And 2), you may have been dealing a mechanic lacking the necessary skills and knowledge for the job.  Or the new shop kid who's learning how to work on stuff was your actual mechanic.  That unfortunately happens often as people are shafted by the "professionals" who claim to be doing a service.

I had that.  Kid put in 80w-90 in my NV5600 after a clutch change (light flywheel resurface and no new hydraulics....) and then swore up and down that's the correct fluid (despite the PTO cover stating the Texaco part #). So I cancelled the charge on the card and had a different shop put in a clutch I brought them.  New shop did good on the install and fluid flush with the exception of wrecking the pilot bearing upon install of the trans.  Since then, I too do as much work as I possibly can on the truck. (Which is basically everything because @TFaoro's shop has a lift!)

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9 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

So is dual disc more for towing, how's daily driving/having fun with it. I've looked at dual disc option before but most say stay with a single disk.

I like it.  It would get tired quick if you were in traffic often.  The clutch hooks good in play situations.  Very noisy in drive thru's and enclosed spaces

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12 minutes ago, Tom Robarts said:

Very noisy in drive thru's and enclosed spaces

My single is great in the drive thru's, it's the Cummins that makes me shut it down to talk the order taker. I cant hear them and they cant hear me with it running.

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