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advice on rv or 5th wheel


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5 hours ago, Me78569 said:

I dont have any RV experience, but I can say my gooseneck horse trailer pulls and backs WAY better than the old bumper pull we had.   I can get the trailer in and out of much tighter places even though it is longer than the bumper pull bt a good bit.

 

 

Yes, a gooseneck pulls better and backs better than a bumper pull, I agree on that.

 

However, when push comes to shove and there is no working room for your tow vehicle, the bumper pull is better. Physically and scientifically, this is a true story. It takes a lot of front end swing to steer a gooseneck, only a small amount will steer a bumper pull, due to the swing of the trucks rear overhang. What happens with a gooseneck when you make a sharp 90* turn? It cheats like crazy, bumper pull only cheats a little. The trucks tail swing will steer the trailer and help it follow the truck. It is this action that makes a bumper pull "tail wag the dog issue" that the gooseneck wont do because it don't steer the truck, like a bumper pull can. 

 

If I have to back down a tree lined or railroad tie lined narrow drive way, that is long and crooked, give me a bumper pull. I can almost take a bumper pull dump trailer where my pickup will go, not so with a gooseneck.

 

 

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I've had both bumper pull 24' trailer with a class 5 hitch and 27' 5th wheel; I prefer the 5th wheel.  The ride comfort as well as the stability of the 5er is superior to that of a bumper pull.   So, consider the pros and cons of both then make your purchase, that's why they still make both. 

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Like in my choice I needed to keep my bed free. I like to haul my ATV with me on trips. I didn't like the toy haulers nor did I like the smell of gasoline inside my home. The ATV rides in the truck bed and the trailer is pulled at the bumper. Still works well as long everything is balanced correctly and not overloaded. 

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On 12/31/2018 at 9:29 AM, NIsaacs said:

 

This only works if there is room to swing the tow vehicle. If there is very limited room for everything, then a bumper pull works better, it will follow the truck better, forward or back.

 

I beg to differ, I drive both a day cab and a sleeper in NYC and make deliveries. When you start bending your tractor to 270degrees, where your trailer is 4 inches from your cab you have allot of room to get around. I was taught by the best to button hook, and make hard turns in the narrow and tight streets of the shittiest corner of the USA, next the California haha NYC, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Scranton etc.

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1 hour ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

 When you start bending your tractor to 270degrees, where your trailer is 4 inches from your cab you have allot of room to get around. 

Apples and oranges, we are not talking about the same thing. You make deliveries that are designed to receive them, with a big truck. We are talking pickups and small trailers making deliveries in 1/4 acre lots. If you recall, I said you need room to swing your truck, than all is good (270*). I also said, if you don't have that swing room, the bumper pull is better. This is a physical fact.

 

This is what I am talking about: Apple trees on the left and evergreen trees on the right. Note the fence on my left, at the start of the video. I have a 9'6" gate I need to back my 8'6" trailer though, down a narrow drive with grow boxes on both sides. Just as the truck inters the gate, I need to steer the trailer at a 45* angle off the driveway so I don't dump on it. This is at the last grow box on one side and another apple tree on the other. I did make this delivery with my gooseneck. With my bumper pull, I would not have needed to pick apples with my windshield, it would have followed my pickup in a much shorter arc, Fact. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISWqvyoh3Ng  

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39 minutes ago, NIsaacs said:

Apples and oranges, we are not talking about the same thing. You make deliveries that are designed to receive them, with a big truck. We are talking pickups and small trailers making deliveries in 1/4 acre lots. If you recall, I said you need room to swing your truck, than all is good (270*). I also said, if you don't have that swing room, the bumper pull is better. This is a physical fact.

 

This is what I am talking about: Apple trees on the left and evergreen trees on the right. Note the fence on my left, at the start of the video. I have a 9'6" gate I need to back my 8'6" trailer though, down a narrow drive with grow boxes on both sides. Just as the truck inters the gate, I need to steer the trailer at a 45* angle off the driveway so I don't dump on it. This is at the last grow box on one side and another apple tree on the other. I did make this delivery with my gooseneck. With my bumper pull, I would not have needed to pick apples with my windshield, it would have followed my pickup in a much shorter arc, Fact. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISWqvyoh3Ng  


yes and no, i have places I get into and out of that are stupidly tight, I'll have to dig up some photos from Brooklyn Methodist hospital. Allot of the places i go to were built 100 plus years ago before we even had semi trucks. and running tanker sucks because my wheels are fixed at the back of the trailer as well. 

 

If I was using my dodge i would have cut the wheel and backed up to tighten the turn up, and spun the trailer. once you back up and cut the wheel and tighten your truck you can pull the trailer and it will tighten and drag your trailer. I know the maneuver you speak of growing up hauling boats since I was 16 I'm familiar with it, but for me 5th wheel or goose neck is superior in tight places when your driving in the city.

 

Edited in what I found on my phone.

 

KIMG0733.JPG.ca0529c5be3e974339173b59448b501b.JPG

The space on the driver's side to the fence. The passenger side is about the same. This place is very narrow.

 

KIMG0732.JPG.45447e2cea0827babafd2b40e1cbd16c.JPG

This is the space between the driver's side and the gate in reference to my welding gloves for work. And yes the truck is fully in the dock here that is the sidewalk the tractor is in the street.

 

KIMG0731.JPG.ea0219e9b9315aa6f98c5b42eb39d945.JPG

This is a shot aiming at the street, this is one of the larger places we get into, there's a scrap yard in northern Manhattan that sucks wise then here. I have to jump the curb on the other side to climb around because I'm too fat to get in between the truck and the gate.



I'm not trying to get into a pissing match, but just showing that regardless of size, this wouldn't have been able to be done with a bumper pull, even my 1 ton dodge can walk circles around this thing when i run my 5th wheel since I learned how to do these turns at my job. NYC is a very unforgiving place! None of these hospital holes we go to here can i even get a 45 foot tanker into, let alone a straight job, this place here requires some really intricate maneuvering, let alone dealing with walkers and other cars jumping the street curbs to get around you.

 

Edited by pepsi71ocean
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  • 4 months later...

Well it took me a while but yesterday I got a 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum 30ft bumper pull with one slide, it's had a lot of new stuff inc new rubber roof (no water damage inside anyway) new brakes, new cooker, new microwave, new sounds, new carpets, new seating, new toilet and shower new fridge/freezer,  new mattress, it is basically new all done at a rv dealer, weight is around 9500lbs and I'd say it was cheap as no Jap/Euro vehicle/pickup is able to tow it legally here in the UK

 

I decided on a trailer rather than a motorhome due to my brother buying a 32ft rv and after taking a look at that I thought the motor bit looked way over complicated and the electrical system certainly left a lot to be desired especially after the conversion to UK electrics, so I already have the ram so why have to tax, mot and insure 2 vehicles.

 

I figure that while the ram and a 30ft trailer is longer than a rv I have a pivot in the middle ish and the trailer also has a pivot so I'll be able to get into tighter areas, I also prefer that I have transport once unhooked, I collect it next weekend around 100 mile from me.

 

I have to fit a electric brake controller to my truck which the seller included the controller and a wiring kit in with the price, It's a POD Pro and after reading instructions it needs a 12v positive, negative and a brake switch feed then a wire goes down to the tow bar to operate the brakes.

Is there a dedicated brake switch feed to use on the truck ??? and where is the best place for the 12v supply ?? my guess for this would be the PDC and as I've done the ground and power mod I have a spare stud so off of that fused ?

s-l500.jpg

Edited by wil440
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Can't help you with elec questions...but

Congratulations on trailer.  

My 30 footer's tongue weight is 930 pds. Real close my oem's "max tongue weight"  of thousands pounds (with weight distribution hitch)  

Here's to lots of enjoyment of your new purchase.

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Very nice and good luck with it.  Don't let JAG1 near it.

 

Do you have a factory trailer hitch with a 7 pin connector?  There should be a factory connector for a brake controller under the dash above the and behind the park brake peddle assembly.  If the trailer brake controller they gave you will plug into it you'll be golden.  You might have to get a connector to make it work.  A couple of weeks ago I took one out of JAG1's work truck.

 

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I'm sure the enjoyment will outweigh the ££££ 

12 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Very nice wheel shack :thumb1:. I like the looks of this one. Can I borrow it for a week or so?... my wifes on a Tyraid I figure will last for a week or so

My wifes also on one cos I bought it BEFORE finishing the house I've been building since 2009 ?

 

50 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Very nice and good luck with it.  Don't let JAG1 near it.

 

Do you have a factory trailer hitch with a 7 pin connector?  There should be a factory connector for a brake controller under the dash above the and behind the park brake peddle assembly.  If the trailer brake controller they gave you will plug into it you'll be golden.  You might have to get a connector to make it work.  A couple of weeks ago I took one out of JAG1's work truck.

 

I have a 7 pin on my other truck so i'll check for the plug under  the dash as that has factory tow pack

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I got the controller just about fitted last night, I haven't got anything to fit the factory plug so i'm going to remove that and use a 4 pin Cat plug, made up a short harness from the controller to the plug just really got to get it down the back now

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Got the controller fully wired last night, tonight I checked underneath for the blue brake wire, nothing at the back so I checked the build sheet and the truck wasn't built with a tow pack so everything at the back is UK spec and of no use for the electric brake wire.

Found the blue at the left wheel arch plug so I cut it out of the plug as I haven't got a terminal for the other part as it was blanked so added enough blue to get me to the back with a soldered joint and heatshrink and inside protective ducting, I'm going to leave it coiled at the back until I get to the trailer then complete the wiring as needed

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collected it today, 150 mile there cruise on at 55/60 used 1/4 tank diesel, hooked it up and spent a while fitting a trailer light board from my UK spec tow plug and messing around with the E brake wire to get them working, brakes all good to the point of Ebrake on manual full, truck will not move, got back onto M5 which is a 3 and 4 lane motorway/highway for the 150 back, set the cruise at 55, OD off, trailer tows really smooth, truck pulls it easily.

On the way there just the truck IAT was 40C back 48C, coolant there 86C back 90C, boost there never went over 7psi, back hit 20psi once, these were all OBD with my SnapOn Modis plugged in so not sure if boost is accurate but it's a figure none the less to work from.

I've towed quite a bit with my 3500 and I always thought it rode better towing, this 2500 feels better towing, empty and not towing both are choppy and bouncy, get some weight either in the bed or on the bar and they are so much smoother.

I don't drive hard or tow hard nice and easy catches monkey but I can see that 9klbs towing isn't nice for a stock auto, M5 fine no probs, little roads to and from the M5 highway is a whole different game..... me thinks flexplate, tork, VB and a trans build THEN more power.

Funny thing is truck used a 1/4 tank back same as going.

I am happy truck ate the job easy :burnout:and it's bog standard with no power mods at all

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11 minutes ago, wil440 said:

I can see that 9klbs towing isn't nice for a stock auto, M5 fine no probs, little roads to and from the M5 highway is a whole different game.....

Towing 8klbs on the highway I let it shift into overdrive and see trans temps at 65°-71°C.  When going up long grades down shift to 3ed and stay at 55 this will keep exhaust temps down.

 

 These trucks ride a lot better with weight in the back. 

 

Stop and go traffic or going up hills in 1st - 2ed gear the torque convertor can quickly drive up the fluid temp to 100°C.   A few weeks ago @JAG1 had me follow him on some back hilly roads while I was towing and the trans stayed in 1st and 2ed; I saw my trans temp hit 121°C.  

 

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Yes, I thought the route would be better than the stop and go thru town. Very long grade going into town as well so I went around on the back roads. But there was stop and go from a school bus :nono: I think IBMobile cleaned his ears out from the steam.

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