Time for a clutch

[Dieselfuture]

17 minutes ago, trreed said:

I would leave the rear main alone if it's not leaking.  Nothing is better than stock.

Hey now  let the man decide for him self 

I guess that brings a question, how many miles do these seals go before developing a leak.

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

I have never slipped my clutch with the EB. That was on the the oe, the Valair, or the SB OFE.

I changed my non leaking oe one at 370k when the SB went in. It now leaks. Where was that advice 2.5 years ago.

370 is very good for a seal, I guess I'd leave it alone then

Edit

I tend to over think things, so my advice is based on OCD ( whatever that means) I just had a few bad valve seals and instead of simply changing them I spent like 2 grand on parts I didn't need. So yeah, not that bright. But as soon as clear valve covers become available.... ohhh ya  

Edited August 17, 2018 by Dieselfuture

[Mopar1973Man]

Dual disc is typically for 550 HP and up. Talked to Peter at South Bend as well on this and shift behavior is a bit different. Single disc typically performs better. Like I'm on my second Con OFE clutch and no issues towing or exhaust brake usage.

 

https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/258-south-bend-ofe-clutch/

 

 

[trreed]

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I guess that brings a question, how many miles do these seals go before developing a leak.

Well now there's a question with a ****load of variables.  Machining tolerances of both the crank and the rear cover will affect it, as well as the tolerances of the seal itself.  Was the crank machined 0.0005 larger than spec while the seal was formed -0.0005 below spec?  There's quicker wear on the crank and more chance of leaking.  Does the seal fit tight enough in the rear cover that the sealant is more effective than a looser fit?  What kinds of heat cycling has the seal seen?  How much lateral and axial play is in the crankshaft? Is the seal true or out of round?  This list can keep going for a long while.  Sure, you can calculate an 'average mileage' for the seal life, but with so many outliers in both directions an average won't mean much.

Edited August 17, 2018 by trreed

[dripley]

3 hours ago, trreed said:

Well now there's a question with a ****load of variables.  Machining tolerances of both the crank and the rear cover will affect it, as well as the tolerances of the seal itself.  Was the crank machined 0.0005 larger than spec while the seal was formed -0.0005 below spec?  There's quicker wear on the crank and more chance of leaking.  Does the seal fit tight enough in the rear cover that the sealant is more effective than a looser fit?  What kinds of heat cycling has the seal seen?  How much lateral and axial play is in the crankshaft? Is the seal true or out of round?  This list can keep going for a long while.  Sure, you can calculate an 'average mileage' for the seal life, but with so many outliers in both directions an average won't mean much.

Thanks for clearing up the mud on that. I feel better already, still got a leaky seal though.

[LegendaryKing]

8 hours ago, dripley said:

As stock as you are, why the dual disk?

 

Truck is stock for now.  I'm researching the most reliable way to meet my 400-500 hp goal and I'm conservative and tend to over build for reliability.  This comes from my time building racecars.  Light weight, high strength, low cost; pick 2.  I'll probably end up building a truck capable of handling 700+ and feed it a diet of 450ish.  At least that is the track record I have so far.

 

I have driven and built a number of multi-disc clutches over the years.  The shift quality remains OE in all of them; however the clutch tends to grab right away ... There is no slipping a clutch in traffic to keep you out of the guy in front of you's trunk.

 

If the rear main seal isn't leaking I'll leave it be.  Thanks for your help everyone.

 

BTW, clutch is already here.

 

[Dieselfuture]

5 hours ago, trreed said:

Well now there's a question with a ****load

Nothing is simple anymore,  I hear ya.