APPS voltage Adjustment - Stopping the Myths!

[Mopar1973Man]

@dripley

 

Could be worse we could all buy OEM APPS which should be better but actually its worse off being the logic chip inside to control the IVS states. Timbo's is the best option for APPS sensor. Wells ain't bad but its back to logic chips to control the IVS state again. 

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

@dripley

 

Could be worse we could all buy OEM APPS which should be better but actually its worse off being the logic chip inside to control the IVS states. Timbo's is the best option for APPS sensor. Wells ain't bad but its back to logic chips to control the IVS state again. 

At least my spare is a good one now. 

[wil440]

The el cheapo I took off worked fine at idle and it came off idle fine too. Part throttle, code everytime, code cleared no problem but came back at the same throttle point, I did take voltage measurements but can't remember what they were, I do remember at the code point it was anyhow

[57pan]

Hello All, 

 

I wanted to jump into this thread because I'm experiencing a dead throttle pedal issue as well.  I've replaced the apps with both a Timbo and Wells and no luck.  I had Mechman build me a new alternator thinking that I was getting high AC levels, no luck.  For some reason, the previous owner installed a jumper from the #3 pin on the apps to the 23 pin on the ECM - orange/black wire (data link/fuel inj) .  I'm not following this logic.

 

I drive the truck on Friday 150 miles without a problem but, yesterday I had a dead pedal 7 times in 5 miles. 

 

Ready to sell if I cant get it figured out.

 

Thanks for the help, 

Chris

Edited October 21, 2019 by 57pan

[Jwirth]

I had a similar problem after installing my Wells APPS.

First, the splicing and cutting you are talking about is the ATS fix which by-passes the ECM. 
I undid that fix, but did keep the splice to #4, black/yellow, on the APPS to ground.
I sanded a good ground to the body where a ground wire from the battery connected and replaced the terminal end. 

I think that ground put me over the top on a torque converter lock I have been fighting for a year.

 

After I installed the Wells APPS and tried the setting voltage myth, my idle was over 1100 and I had a reoccurring dead peddle. 
To fix it I readjusted the APPS for free travel, the middle of the torx screw slots and forgot about the voltage.
I disconnected the batteries, again, for over 30+ minutes.
I reconnected them, turned on the key, pressed the peddle to the floor and back up slowly, and started the engine.
My idle went to 850 and I have not had a dead peddle again.

In short, I suspect you need to clear and reset your APPS memory by disconnecting the batteries.
The only other issue could be if someone has jacked around with the idle screw and it is not reaching the idle signal of the APPS.
All the accelerator peddle controls on the engine is the APPS.

Lastly, listen to Mopar1973man over me. 

I know what I did, but he knows what he is doing. 

 

Edited October 21, 2019 by Jwirth

[57pan]

Jwirth thank you for the advice.  In another effort in futility, I disconnected the batteries for 2.5 hours today, then reset the apps module after hooking them back up.  To my dismay,  the truck went into dead pedal less than 2 blocks from the house.  

 

Argh!  BTW, I've cleaned every grounding point.  I guess it's back to tracing wires.

 

[Me78569]

Codes?

[57pan]

Today's code is P0121 - TPS A circuit range/performance. 

 

Thanks

[Mopar1973Man]

Should be no wiring mods to the APPS wiring. Either to the signal or ground legs period. Sensor ground is NOT body ground.

[57pan]

Moparman,

 

I finally had some time today to further investigate the spliced wires on my APPs sensor.  The first was with. The blue/green splice to a ground.  The second is the blue/white going to pin 23 of the PCM.  

 

I disconnected both splices and now my wait to start light flashes and the truck wont start.   Does this mean I have a bad ECM and was the blue/white splice a workaround?

 

I should mention that the originally wiring is intact.

 

Thanks,

Chris

Out of curiosity, I reattached the splice going to the ground and my WTS light stopped flashing and the truck started.  I've left the splice to the PCM unhooked for now.

 

Chris

Edited October 31, 2019 by 57pan

[Mopar1973Man]

This is why I do not suggest this mods...

 

Wait to start flashing is a bad thing and the ECM is done.

[dripley]

Well my electrically challenge arse has to ask, Why would grounding the idle validation switch 2 make it work? I kept thinking maybe something was bad in the ground splice in the harness but those wires are blk/lt blu for the sensor grounds.