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Will get started on removing the drivelines today. Mopar I was looking at the manufacturers links on your web site and found Standard Transmission and Gear listed. Have you or anybody else here ever done business with them? Found a place out of Memphis called High Gear Transmission also. High Gear had this info

THIS IS A STANDARD SHIFT TRANSMISSION, NV5600 6 SPEED, FOR THE DODGE 3500 SERIES DIESEL TRUCKS.WE HAVE THESE IN 2X4 AND 4X4. THESE UNITS ARE REBUILT, UPDATED AND DYNO TESTED. (MY DYNO TESTER COST $80,000. BEFORE YOU BUY A TRANSMISSION FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE, ASK IF THEY HAVE MADE THAT KIND OF INVESTMENT IN THEIR PRODUCTS.) ALL THIS MEANS THEY WILL WORK WELL FOR YOU WHEN YOU GET THEM. WE DO SEVERAL THINGS TO MAKE THESE TRANSMISSIONS LAST LONGER. ASK US ABOUT IT WHEN YOU CALL.

listed on the tranny Will give them all a call on Monday. Will a 3500 fit my 2500 ?I just found the link to the transmission write up from the dodge forum http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-cu...rk-nv5600.html that will be very helpful. Nice write up by that guy. I also need a clutch. Found a SBC 1947 OFE at TV diesel for 650.00. Does that sound like the right one for me. I don't do a lot of pulling. Haul a cabover to Montana once a year and occassionally pull a load of firewood. Just a few questions. I notice some clutches come with a fly wheel can I just reuse mine or do I need a new one? Is there anything else you would do while you have this tranny out. Rear main seal ? Any other thoughts or suggestions or tips to make this job any easier would be a appreciated.

Thanks Rob

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hawkeye....I may not be one of the best as far as information on here but I just recently replaced the clutch in my truck ....most of the south bend clutches come with a new fly wheel ...it is my understanding that yes it is possible to reuse your current flywheel BUT..it will possibly need resurfaced..and i believe it has to b free from major defects ie cracks and major divots...the replacement flywheel from southbend is pretty stout hopefully you have either a few friends or some very nice shop equipment ..i had friends laying out in the snow :lmao:I really couldnt have done it with out friends ...there are a few write ups on the forums about doing this ...also a bottle jack and a 2x4 to slightly spread the frame rails will make the job easier.....not sure about any thing else you might want to do while it was out .....I am sure that michael and a few others will chime in shortly

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Ok got the tranny pulled tonite. Man is that thing huge or what. Not really looking forward to putting it back in. Ordered a reman tranny from powersource. They do the upgrade of drilling the case and drilling a hole in the race to allow the lower gear to get more oil. 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty on tranny. They told me to add 2 extra quarts or pints will have to look at my notes. Spoke with Peter and he said the 1470 O would be the clutch I would need so got that ordered today also. Will pull and have my flywheeel resurfaced also. I am going to replace the rear main seal while I am in there also. (anybody done this before, tips or anything). Ok time for stupid questions.:ahhh: Mopar or (anybody else) on your clutch writeup I noticed you put the bell housing (separated it from tranny) and then stabbed the tranny. correct ? Is it the same for the 6 speed ? I also will have to separate the transfer case to change over to the new tranny would you leave it off (less weight) to stab the tranny. Anything anybody has to offer on making stabbing this monster any easier would be greatly appreciated. Also on the slave cylinder I just unbolted will I just bolt it back on or do I need to do anyhting else. If I have missed anything so far please speak up. I can turn a wrench alright but I am far from being a mechanic.:smart: Thanks in advance Rob

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Ok got the tranny pulled tonite. Man is that thing huge or what. Not really looking forward to putting it back in. Ordered a reman tranny from powersource. They do the upgrade of drilling the case and drilling a hole in the race to allow the lower gear to get more oil. 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty on tranny. They told me to add 2 extra quarts or pints will have to look at my notes. Spoke with Peter and he said the 1470 O would be the clutch I would need so got that ordered today also. Will pull and have my flywheeel resurfaced also. I am going to replace the rear main seal while I am in there also. (anybody done this before, tips or anything). Ok time for stupid questions.:ahhh: Mopar or (anybody else) on your clutch writeup I noticed you put the bell housing (separated it from tranny) and then stabbed the tranny. correct ?

Yes... Do you clutch assembly on the flywheel and then place your bellhousing up with clutch fork and throw outbearing then stab it...

Is it the same for the 6 speed ?

Yeap...

I also will have to separate the transfer case to change over to the new tranny would you leave it off (less weight) to stab the tranny. Anything anybody has to offer on making stabbing this monster any easier would be greatly appreciated. Also on the slave cylinder I just unbolted will I just bolt it back on or do I need to do anyhting else. If I have missed anything so far please speak up. I can turn a wrench alright but I am far from being a mechanic.:smart:

Thanks in advance

Rob

Nope you sound like your on track for the most part...

Just take your time be safe about having that beast way up in the air... I use a pull strap from frame to frame to protect me from the trans if it should fall.

Make sure the throw-out bearing gets up on the collar of the input shaft... You'll know because the slave hole the fork will be close to the hole if correct if not it will be deep inside...

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Just wondering, what is supposed to be the typical operating temp of the nv5600. I have got mine hooked up to the edge attitude; just never really worried about it... until now, :stuned: Thanks Hawkeye! If you deside to do your rear main seal, again I would recommend quad4x4.com Looking forward to some pics! I may have to do a clutch in mine after awhile. Good luck and be careful, gravity is rather unforgiving. GB

Nope you sound like your on track for the most part... Just take your time be safe about having that beast way up in the air... I use a pull strap from frame to frame to protect me from the trans if it should fall. Make sure the throw-out bearing gets up on the collar of the input shaft... You'll know because the slave hole the fork will be close to the hole if correct if not it will be deep inside...

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ok not any pics of pulling tranny we didn't have a tranny jack because my GF oh never mind :cookoo:We had three floor jacks and got lucky we didn't get killed. Get a tranny jack DUHOh well moving on got the tranny out. I had replaced the slave cylinder six or nine months ago when my clutch started creeping at a stop. It fixed the problem and my clutch had been working great. So you can imagine my surprise when I pulled the slave cylinder out and saw this. I would have thought the plastic would have broke right ? I have never had a problem shifting. post-10242-138698167043_thumb.jpg

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Ok when I took the shift tower off and I found this post-10242-138698167051_thumb.jpgIf you look closely you can see a big melted glob above the ball joint. It is some kind of metal or plastic retainer clip to hold the shifter to the cup. Called the Dodge house about it the guy said it only comes in the shift tower kit. $320.00. I wont repeat what my reply was. Anyway I called the guy Noey is his name at Standard Transmission and Gear (listed on Mopars manufacturer's list) this guys definitly knows his stuff about these tranny's. I really wished I had bought my new tranny from them. But they are located in Texas and so am I so I would've had to pay the sales tax and they didn't pay the shipping so I saved about $400 (which paid for my clutch). I asked him about the retainer and he said he had some. I gritted my teeth and said how much and he said $1.00 and I said send me 2.:thumbup2:

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Sorry for the multiple post but for some reason I can only post one pic to a reply if I try multiples my puter quits responding :banghead:Anyway pulled the PTO coverspost-10242-138698167065_thumb.jpgLOL :lmao: that was funny everything looks good nothing sheared or any teeth missing on the things I can see.In the main case everything looked good thru the PTO covers and sown thru the shift tower.But I aint no tranny guy. Looking thru the back of tranny where the transfer adapter is you can see some chucks of metal but

post-10242-138698167058_thumb.jpg

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you can see the mangled bearing that comes off the main shaft of the tranny post-10242-138698167098_thumb.jpgand then this is the back of the adapter plate you can see one of the balls from the bearing laying there post-10242-138698167119_thumb.jpgThis is the part I need some help with. When I pulled this cover off there was this smaller shaft closes in the picture with the small washer on a roll pin post-10242-138698167105_thumb.jpgand from a different angle the small shaft to the upper right of the big gear you can see the pin thru the shaft post-10242-138698167089_thumb.jpg Well that shaft with the pin fits into the inside of the transfer case adapter here post-10242-138698167136_thumb.jpgand since I could not see I am not sure exactly what step this thing was on.:ahhh: I truly have no idea what it is or what funtion it serves.:banghead:. Man you just have to laugh to keep from crying but as you can see in the next picture there is a little plastic piece that is kind of chewed up . post-10242-138698167147_thumb.jpgSo I need some help on identifying this so I can find another one LOL:pray: that does not cost $320

post-10242-13869816713_thumb.jpg

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now to the clutch post-10242-138698167162_thumb.jpgremove the pressure plate and clutch platepost-10242-13869816719_thumb.jpgThis what the fly wheel looked like not sure if you can see it but the pilot bearing was just disentegrated. Just parts of the cage holding the bearing left. It was at this point I almost killed myself. After I unbolted the flywheel I figured it would be wedged on the shaft pretty tight so I put a screwdriver in between the fly wheel and the housing and gave it a mighty pry. Next thing I know I've got fifty pounds of flywheel coming at my face. It was so loose and I pried so hard. It was just my cat like reflexes that saved me. LOL:lmao: I can laugh about it now but man that was close. post-10242-138698167177_thumb.jpgNot sure if you can see it but there was some heat checking in the fly wheel I took it to the machine shop and he said not to worry he could get it turned out ? Here is the back of the pressure plate post-10242-138698167183_thumb.jpgnot sure if you can see the what was left of the pilot bearing here is the back of the clutchpost-10242-138698167169_thumb.jpgOk now after further review the bell housing bolts to the tranny from inside the bell housing so the bell housing on the 6 speed must be attached to the tranny before stabbing. I know Mopar when I saw how it bolted from the inside I thought now how in the hell am I gonna manage that shift fork. post-10242-138698167203_thumb.jpg Well there is a clip that holds the fork end opposite the slave to a post on the bell housing post-10242-138698167217_thumb.jpgyou slide the throw out bearing over the shaft and then push the fork down and the clip on the end opposite the slave down and the clip snaps onto the post and so now all you have to do is worry about stabbing the main shaft thru the pressure plate and splines of the clutch plate. NO holding that fork thru the slave hole trying to manipulate the fork and pushing the tranny forward. At least in theory I guess. The fork is actually pinned almost up against the bell housing. Its secured on one end by the clip and in the middle by the shaft and the throw out bearing so not much play as i see it. :hyper:But will see how it works. post-10242-138698167209_thumb.jpg Ok here is the rear main seal. I could use some help figuring out how to pull this bad boy out. It doesn't look as if has been leaking. I am big proponent of if it ain't broke don't fix it. But I am here and it's only like $26.00 to buy. Any suggestions would be welcome. post-10242-138698167155_thumb.jpgWell that's it for the nite. I could use some thoughts on the why the plastic on the slave cylinder stayed and my clutch still worked. I could also use some input on what that shaft is going into the transfer adapter is and how to set it back up correctly and where to get another plastic piece for where that shaft fits into the transfer adapter. Also on how to pull that rear main seal I could use some ideas.Well I am sorry for all the separate replies but it took me awhile to figure out the picture posting thing:lmao: It's kind of like the doing this. Never done it so its on the job training.If there are any other pics you would like to see just let me know. Thanks Rob

post-10242-138698167197_thumb.jpg

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Now thats a boatload of pics! :thumbup2:For some reason I think all of your problems stemmed from that slave cylinder not having the plastic off. They are supposed to break after you install it and push the clutch, yours obviously didn't. I don't know how it shifted fine, had just enough to relieve it enough I guess, though I don't think it went all the way and it looks like it was still partially engaged and just sat there spinning and toasting the flywheel and pressure plate. After it toasted the pilot bearing, things went south since it wasn't aligned by that bearing and the clutch started grabbing unknowingly and bending the shaft a little and therefore everything in trans. Stuff in trans gets very hot from this and then stuff melts and other bearings go. Thing is, I don't see how this went unnoticed for all this time. Scary to think stuff like that could go on without making a sound until it finally does make a sound, the sound of the trans falling out and hitting the road :lol: I am not sure on my theory but that slave cylinder leads a lot of suspicion.

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Looks like its going well for you, considering. Have you looked at any extra cooling? There are two options, Fast Coolers and Trans-Cool. The Trans-Cool are 2x the money, but look like they may work a little better; but I have never heard of anyone not getting a decent amount of cooling from the Fast Coolers. I run the Fast Coolers on mine, they hold 2 extra qts (Trans-Cool only adds one), so there is more fluid for cooling. Most recommend adding 1-2 qts over the stock fill. I think I am 3qts over with the fast coolers, and that has to help lubing and cooling. Did the place you bought the trans from suggest a fluid to you? I have been using Amsoil MTF with good results for the last 45K miles, going to change it at 50K mile intervals.

Now thats a boatload of pics! :thumbup2: For some reason I think all of your problems stemmed from that slave cylinder not having the plastic off. They are supposed to break after you install it and push the clutch, yours obviously didn't. I don't know how it shifted fine, had just enough to relieve it enough I guess, though I don't think it went all the way and it looks like it was still partially engaged and just sat there spinning and toasting the flywheel and pressure plate. After it toasted the pilot bearing, things went south since it wasn't aligned by that bearing and the clutch started grabbing unknowingly and bending the shaft a little and therefore everything in trans. Stuff in trans gets very hot from this and then stuff melts and other bearings go. Thing is, I don't see how this went unnoticed for all this time. Scary to think stuff like that could go on without making a sound until it finally does make a sound, the sound of the trans falling out and hitting the road :lol: I am not sure on my theory but that slave cylinder leads a lot of suspicion.

That's an interesting thought. I wonder if the slave cylinder mfgr should be contacted about a defect? Or if the slave cylinder wasn't bleed properly? I think its probably worth a few phone calls to get an idea on what issues that could cause.
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hawkeye, Looks like you are on the right track. Looks like you are gonna go with the Southbend clutch and Southbend slave cylinder assembly. Best to get it ALL while you are in there. It is gonna be expensive but in the end you will have that part of your power train reliable and correct for a long time to come. Not sure if you are a TDR or Dodge Forum member but here are some links to NV5600 rebuilds and installs that may come in handy for info. and pictorial views. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/24-valve-engine-transmission-1998-5-2002/207775-nv-5600-repair.html http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-cummins-diesel/112548-diy-transmission-work-nv5600.html This kid did one hell of a write-up and job! His grandfather was a great mentor too! Hope these links help.

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I going on the hunch the slave cylinder wasn't bled properly. Then it would have a short throw. Even mine broke the tabs the very first pedal hit... Truely you don't need the tabs to install a slave it does help keep the slave from pushing out while trying to get the nuts on... What got me scratch my head is if the slave was short throw like it was and never broke the tabs so the trans should of been tough shifting because of the input shaft dragging with the flywheel. :shrug:

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DO NOT overfill it. Doing so inhibits proper oil slinging. They designed it to properly lubricate itself with 4.75 quarts- up to the fill plug. Overfilling is all over the internet forums with people doing it successfully, yes, but blumenthal in okc as well as Dodge says that overfilling will F one up over the long term. Never will do it with mine, that is for sure... If anyone says to, I would think twice... Lot of design went into the transmission, if they wanted you to fill it up with 6 quarts or whatever, they would have put the fill plug higher. I have a temp probe on my 6 speed tranny, and when I tried the overfilling thing, it ran 20 degrees hotter. Then I got smart, and called some people about it. For one, if you buy a tranny from Dodge, and you overfill it they will void the warranty. Just my opinion on this though....

---------- Post added at 04:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:02 PM ----------

I going on the hunch the slave cylinder wasn't bled properly. Then it would have a short throw. Even mine broke the tabs the very first pedal hit... Truely you don't need the tabs to install a slave it does help keep the slave from pushing out while trying to get the nuts on...

What got me scratch my head is if the slave was short throw like it was and never broke the tabs so the trans should of been tough shifting because of the input shaft dragging with the flywheel. :shrug:

Yeah that thing must have been a bear to shift and get in gear if that clutch disengage cylinder wasn't fully disengaging it.

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There has been lots of discussion on the overfilling, its rare to find any companies that don't endorse at least a qt over. That's why I stuck with about a qt on mine (and with the fast coolers, its much less elevation than on a non fast cooler trans).. But in the end its every persons decision on what to do, I don't think the NV5600 has seen a lot of failures either way. The increase in temp also has two trains of thought, the most popular (thou not always accurate) is that the extra oil is now bathing the bearings more, and pulling more heat from them.

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There has been lots of discussion on the overfilling, its rare to find any companies that don't endorse at least a qt over. That's why I stuck with about a qt on mine (and with the fast coolers, its much less elevation than on a non fast cooler trans).. But in the end its every persons decision on what to do, I don't think the NV5600 has seen a lot of failures either way. The increase in temp also has two trains of thought, the most popular (thou not always accurate) is that the extra oil is now bathing the bearings more, and pulling more heat from them.

Cool, I didn't think about it that way. I think I am going to look into those coolers, that is not a bad idea at all.

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I overfilled mine approximately 2 pints about 8 years ago. The first difference I noticed was somewhat easier shifting. I did the same thing with my wife's truck as soon as I got it. There was a minor improvment in shifting as well. I can't atest to any change in temps as I have no probe to measure temp. set up.

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