Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Recommended Posts

  • Owner
6 hours ago, dripley said:

 

So @Mopar1973Man has kinky hose and @JAG1 does not. This sounds a bit strange.

 

I was just pointing out a common issue I've seen. People like to use rubber hose for lots of things. Like when people attempt to do my crankcase mod with rubber heater hose the net result was some poor member stuck on the Al-Can Highway with the tappet cover gasket blown out and lost most of the engine oil. The only thing that stopped him was the Check Gage light and the Oil gauge being at Zero. 

 

So like the same thing happens with trying to get around that return tee in the back of the head. If you use rubber hose and for some reason, the return line should kink shut because of poor fitment then the front seal of the VP44 could be at risk. This is why I tend to suggest that the OEM return tee is kept and not modified.  

 

So have fun with your kinky theory... :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand the return line goes thru more fuel then vp44.  OK, I ve been wanting a access point to drain fuel into 5 gallon bucket or help somebody out that needs couple gallons. I think my return line is 3/16 but not certain. 

 

Does the return line need to be a certain size to create pressure on anything to keep things working right? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner
10 hours ago, 015point9 said:

OK, I ve been wanting a access point to drain fuel into 5 gallon bucket or help somebody out that needs couple gallons.

Disconnect the return line below the tee and insert a piece of tubing. The only problem the more you do this the more you'll have problems with air leaks later when the o-ring wear out in the fitting.

 

10 hours ago, 015point9 said:

Does the return line need to be a certain size to create pressure on anything to keep things working right?

Not really. Just has to be free-flowing. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m happy with the way my repair turned out. I used 5/16 id fuel line and I cut line just above that plastic disconnect and only removed the plastic line. I connected where it went to a steel line underneath. I don’t see any chance of kink. I put in a fuel pressure gauge and hear people talk about there fuel pressure, would someone look at mine and tell me where I went wrong, my aways reads pegged out at 30.

3B49B9A1-AB14-40C7-9B5A-979C52FD4E5C.jpeg

And my truck starts right up like it used to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

The first thing that hit me is the fuel line is too small. Second off it doesn't seem to be hooked up to the fuel filter at all. It appears to be hooked up to the return line which would be wrong. I can't even see the VP44 return in the picture which should run behind the fuel filter. The filter inlet is on the firewall side. The filter outlet is at the bottom. You line is going around the filter which has me scratching my head. 

 

The other thing I noticed there is no snubber seen in the tee before the sensor. Water hammer pulse most likely ruined the sensor. Not to mention fuel pressure sensors should never be hooked up right at the tap point they need to be reomte mounted. 

 

As you can see my return line here. 

Image result for mopar1973man vp44 fuel line

 

Then true 1/2" fuel lines. No banjo bolts. 

Image result for mopar1973man vp44 fuel line

 

As you see my fuel pressure sensor is nowhere near the VP44.

Image result for mopar1973man fuel pressure

 

As you'll see I've got a snubber before the line heading to the sensor. That's the final brass fitting after the needle valve. The needle valve is a protection if the tubing broke I can shut the line and continue driving. 

Image result for mopar1973man fuel pressure

Edited by Mopar1973Man
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

James Merritt you have me totally concerned about what you have done and what is showing in you picture :think::ahhh::shrug::nono:

 

Let me ask; Is that Tee your showing with the fuel pressure sensor on the return fuel line? A fuel pressure sensor has to be on the fuel supply line not the return line. So you got me more baffled than ever here.

 

Please respond before I send a big honkin chicken over there to peck your work to death or you to death which ever comes first. Believe me you don't want Dripley on your case, his peck is worse than a bite

Edited by JAG1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, James merritt said:

The T with the sensor for pressure is coming off the banjo on the bottom of the fuel filter canister 

I take you reconfigured the fuel line and added the tee? Definitely not stock. So it looks strange to say the least. You do need a snubber or something there to protect the sender. The pulses from the VP will destroy the sender pretty quick.

 

Happy the truck is starting as it should. Nothing like success. The hands will heal, mine always do after having them in tight places.

 

My peck aint as bad as the pecker heads above mention. 

 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

We give 'em a hard time James cause he builds chicken restaurants all over the country. He does know his stuff tho about what our injection pumps need. I do know you got too small of fuel lines if they are stock size it just slowly kills the VP44.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if I get a snubber for my pressure sensor I will get a different reading or just not kill my gauge if I haven’t already. I don’t understand the line size, to the best of my knowledge the banjo off the bottom of fuel filter canister is the stock line my truck came with, I continued with my tee for the gauge with the same size line, and isn’t this the line that feeds my injector pump? I’m pretty envious of morpar mans fuel line set up ,it looks very impressive and probably works that way to. My truck has been a real work horse for me over the years and I’d like to take better care of it. And I thought I was trying, when I bought the gauge I thought I put it where it belongs but it has read 30 psi since day one. It has pretty colors that change and flicker a lot. With this wonderful place for knowledge I may be able to do better. Since brand new I never missed or was late on oil changes. If you don’t do anything else change the oil is what I heard.wait till you see my leaf spring coming through the bed.

I like chicken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

You sensor is dead most likely. This is a reason I remote mounted my fuel pressure sensor now I can easily hook up mechanical gauge and verify. In you case you need a snubber distance from your tap point about 5 to 6 feet and fresh pressure sensor. You can start the engine and place your finger on the line and feel the pulsation from the VP44.

 

All the stock plumbing needs to go away. This was learned back 2004 when drilling banjos barely made the grade. Then Vulcan Performance came out with the first Big Line Kit. Then AirDog and FASS started using the idea as well. 1/2 lines gives the supply volume plus more.

 

Best way to see this your house is on fire and you trying to fight with you little 5/8 inch garden hose. Your losing the battle. The fire dept shows up deploys an 2 1/2 inch cannon. This thing will drown any fire. Same thing with you fuel system that tiny 6mm ID lines is smaller than 1/4 inch ID. Once you upgrade to full 1/2 lines you will stable fuel pressures I only see roughly 2 to 3 PSI drop from idle to WOT.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto on the above. I got away with the stock lines for about 230k. Lost my lift pump and Dodge blessed me with a $900 in tank pump. In about 20k more miles Imstarted having pressure issues with it and it made the VP act up. A band aid booster pump worked for a while and in the mean time I started learning about the fuel system, joined here and then found for $600 and my labor I could replaced the whole system. 

 If you plan on keeping it, the aftermarket systems are worth the money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...