Constant brake issues

[KATOOM]

Just now, digidoggie18 said:

 

 Where I thought I should be. With that being said when the shop did my drums they were in fact seized, it took them a day to get it all apart

 

Likely they were NOT seized but just hard to get apart...which is common practice for anyone trying to get their rear drums off.

One old trick in doing so is to place the rear axle on stands, remove the rear tires, on both sides put three lug nuts back on the wheel studs just far enough for the threads to reach the end of the nut.  Meaning they're very loose...

Then start the truck and put it in gear.  With the drums spinning put the transmission in neutral and slam on the brakes.  The drums will shoot off from the force.  Obviously you can see now that the loose sitting lug nuts are there to prevent drums from rocketing across your garage.

Other than that, the R&R process is to do one side at a time so you dont forget what goes where and how things are supposed to look and fit together.

[Tractorman]

1 hour ago, KATOOM said:

Other than that, the R&R process is to do one side at a time so you dont forget what goes where and how things are supposed to look and fit together

 

This is good advice in general, but keep in mind if one is not very knowledgeable regarding drum brake operation and the parts are installed incorrectly from a previous repair, one may duplicate those errors and continue to have braking problems.

 

A photo of the correct rear drum brake assembly from a repair manual can be very informative.

 

- John

Edited January 18, 2019 by Tractorman

[KATOOM]

Especially since everyone has a smartphone sitting in their pockets at all times...  Taking pictures as you go is GREAT advice.

[digidoggie18]

My sliders were replaced during the last job but they still looked awkward so I'll replace those again when I do wheel bearings hopefully soon. Withthat being said, does anyone have a link to a service manual four a 2001 24v?

 What causes this? Improper install or bad sliders? This was the questionable side..

Also, what's the easiest way to do hubs?

[Dieselfuture]

Sorry that's not the sliders I'm talking about, the ones I'm speaking off are round and have rubber boots on them. You have to use special high temp lubricant inside, don't use regular anti seize it dries out

[digidoggie18]

I solely put copper antiseize on all bolts, hardware, etc...for that reason, hooefully replacing that hardware will be ok, I just don't know why it would have shaved that sliding bracket though as everything went together stupid smooth

[pepsi71ocean]

@digidoggie18 hubs are very easy to do. Even for me in a Jersey rust truck. I'm doing a write up for us rust bucket trucks as we speak.

[digidoggie18]

12 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

@digidoggie18 hubs are very easy to do. Even for me in a Jersey rust truck. I'm doing a write up for us rust bucket trucks as we speak.

Yes, these came apart like butter, my rust bucket  is tough normally I didn't even have to tap on the hubs the drivers unbolted and feel right out

[KATOOM]

23 hours ago, digidoggie18 said:

 What causes this? Improper install or bad sliders? This was the questionable side..

 

 

This looks like a result of the pad backing not fitting properly in the clip...  Actually, you must have forcefully crammed the pads in the caliper brackets for anything to look like that.

 

When I install my pads I'll set the clips in place and then file away whatever paint and extra metal material is on the pad in order for them to rest easily in the clips, and also move smoothly back and forth by hand.  Otherwise the pads have to be shoved back and forth by the caliper and then likely hold the caliper from returning to its proper position.  Thats when you get uneven pad wear...

[digidoggie18]

3 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

 

This looks like a result of the pad backing not fitting properly in the clip...  Actually, you must have forcefully crammed the pads in the caliper brackets for anything to look like that.

 

When I install my pads I'll set the clips in place and then file away whatever paint and extra metal material is on the pad in order for them to rest easily in the clips, and also move smoothly back and forth by hand.  Otherwise the pads have to be shoved back and forth by the caliper and then likely hold the caliper from returning to its proper position.  Thats when you get uneven pad wear...

I didn't force them in though, this side went in extremely smooth, I replaced the guides this morning. I think the clips holding them in place broke and that was what caused the issue, hopefully it is rectified once she goes back together

[KATOOM]

But its actually peeling the clip material as it moves back and forth...

 

Whatever the cause...hopefully you get it all figured out and working good.

[astiles357]

I recently flushed power steering because it gave several signs of needing it.

1. Whinning PS pump when cold.

2. Aerated Fluid puking from PS reservoir.

3. In cold temps, steering was extra hard and when the brake pedal was pressed steering would lock up.

4. Also brake pedal was extra hard. I am pretty sure I knocked my hips out of wack standing on the brakes one morning.

Power Steering flush as described by @mopar1973man on this forum has remedied all my above issues.

Edited January 20, 2019 by astiles357
grammar

[Mopar1973Man]

Power steering fluid should be changed every 30k miles. 

[astiles357]

I didn't know that ps fluid needed changed that frequently until I read that in your another post. I am used to driving/maintaining a chevy. This Dodge is a whole other animal! Though a chevy is not going to make a million miles either. I have never seen power steering fluid so nasty. When it was puking, it was bubbly chocholate milk! Made such a huge difference after the flush. I will definitely stay up on PM's I know about.

[KATOOM]

Use a higher quality synthetic PS fluid to help fight the heat the hydroboost system generates.  Thats not a suggestion not to change the fluid regularly but that you can help fight cold weather problems and help in hot weather conditions.

 

In a different thread, some shared how installing a PS cooler helped.  I installed a small one early fall and I'm curious to see if it does anything.

[Mopar1973Man]

13 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

Use a higher quality synthetic PS fluid to help fight the heat the hydroboost system generates.

 

Actually, I would look into what is creating excessive heat instead of band-aid with synthetic fluids. Being I go through summer heat as high as 115*F and only used petroleum power steering fluid (SuperTech). 

 

Being larger tires and wheels tend to amplify this problem. Then offroad use at slow speed and turning the steering while not moving creates huge amount of heat. Again larger wheels and tire make it worse. 

[KATOOM]

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Actually, I would look into what is creating excessive heat instead of band-aid with synthetic fluids. Being I go through summer heat as high as 115*F and only used petroleum power steering fluid (SuperTech). 

 

Being larger tires and wheels tend to amplify this problem. Then offroad use at slow speed and turning the steering while not moving creates huge amount of heat. Again larger wheels and tire make it worse. 

 

Its not that its "excessive" heat, nor is there any source other than the hydroboost system itself...  Its just that it runs HOT and there's even members who've reported scalding their fingers touching the hydroboost lines during summer days.  Anything that runs that hot needs more attentive maintenance...

[Mopar1973Man]

4 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

Its just that it runs HOT and there's even members who've reported scalding their fingers touching the hydroboost lines during summer days.  Anything that runs that hot needs more attentive maintenance...

 

That's the part I've got to ask why is the fluid this hot what is the cause? It's not normal. Even after all the miles on my own truck I've never had fluid temps that high. Even with all my 250 mile trip back and forth. Still in all fluid temperatures that high is not normal. That brings me back to causes. Like poor flow which is driving the pump to strain and return excessive at the pump own pressure regulator. Sludge, debris, damaged parts... 

[digidoggie18]

Ok, so I did hubs yesterday and redid brakes. I filed the pad mounting places like you said and added a very small amount of lube where the pad mounts and rests on those clips. I also checked my power steering and you guys hit the nail right on the head. My power steering is in dire need of replacement. With that being said, I mistakenly pumped brakes with the caliper off. Instead of pushing it back to the reservoir I pried on the poisons while opening the bleeder, I got absolutely no air out and was careful on keeping air from getting in. Since all that the pedal is nice and stiff and the pedal Moonves about 1/4" before engaging and braking power is much higher... The pedal still returns slow but maybe it's just me (3seconds to return from being pushed all the way down). 

Later this week I will be doing a power steering flush as well, thank you guys for the huge amount of knowledge that you were able to give me!

One other thing... Are all dodge ram 2500 service manuals the same? I.e. If I purchase one for 2000-2001 will most stuff be the same for diesel models or do they differ between gas and diesel?

[Haggar]

digi,

 

The FSM has both the gas and diesel in different sections. 

 

Send a Private message to Mopar1973man.  I think he may have what you need.

 

HTH

Hag