Fass Fuel Systems and air in fuel issues.

[JAG1]

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

@JAG1 Stay in Oregon, then the rattles stay there too. 

He does that you you turn right around and have to spend more money at his shop. 

[Marcus2000monster]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I've seen the pickup tube crack on stock baskets and cause the truck to run out of fuel at a 1/2 tank. Now did you install a draw straw?

Check out my signature. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Sorry I missed it. 

 

@Marcus2000monster yeah the tool came back it's here. Neighbor picks up my mail for me keep things dry. 

[Marcus2000monster]

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Sorry I missed it. 

 

@Marcus2000monster yeah the tool came back it's here. Neighbor picks up my mail for me keep things dry. 

Lol. Great. Wish it would have fixed my problem but alas it didn’t. I still need todo more digging but I don’t have time. 

[Marcus2000monster]

On 1/27/2019 at 12:14 PM, JAG1 said:

Marcus2000monster ,It seems that if it were an air problem, the symptoms would go away with a full tank. Or at the least be less noticeable.

 

How about checking for the infamous AC ripple levels?

 

Have you completed the W-Ts grounding mods? Both my trucks seemed to run a bit more like a cats purr afterward.

 

Check the condition of the PDC ground, an important one down on the fender in front of the drivers battery. It is often hidden by the wire harness running over that grounding bolt. 

 

Condition of the batteries and connection posts.

 

Unhook the VP connector and inspect all the pins for any minute distortion.

 

Just go over things in general on the electrical side is my lean anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ok gents did some work on the truck. 

Alt is producing.035 VAC so good they’re. 

 

I was was unable to find the PDC ground nor did I look long as I had to keep moving but I found a ground unhooked beside the pdc. 

 

Vp connected looked swell. 

Planning to do the WT mod as soon as possible. 

[pepsi71ocean]

@Marcus2000monster My 1999 has the same ground wire unhooked as well, and I haven't a clue where it goes. maybe Mike can shed some light on this.

[JAG1]

I wonder why the PDC ground location on your 12 valve is different than my 2- 24 valve trucks. It is pretty important with several ground leads coming together on that one bolt and sort of hidden under a small section of wire harness.(You can't see it until you feel your hand down there under the harness and move the harness out of the way) It's an actual bolt not just a sheet metal screw.

[Marcus2000monster]

7 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I wonder why the PDC ground location on your 12 valve is different than my 2- 24 valve trucks. It is pretty important with several ground leads coming together on that one bolt and sort of hidden under a small section of wire harness.(You can't see it until you feel your hand down there under the harness and move the harness out of the way) It's an actual bolt not just a sheet metal screw.

My truck is a 24 valve. I just at need to look harder for the hat ground lol. 

 

8 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

@Marcus2000monster My 1999 has the same ground wire unhooked as well, and I haven't a clue where it goes. maybe Mike can shed some light on this.

Ok it must not be for anything or what. 

[Haggar]

Marcus,  we gotta get you reading wiring diagrams..... (open up the one I attached I will walk you through it)

 

The PDC ground is G100, G101 and G102.  Those are located under the battery on the driver's side. The ground wire goes from the fender to the PDC and is split to the different circuits by Joint Connector #1.   BUT THIS is NOT what you want. (if you are still looking for your fog lights wonkiness...)

 

Ground  G201 is the main ground for the headlight SYSTEM.  If your other lights work ok, it is not that ground that is the problem.  The ground passes through your headlamp switch in its OWN connector called C2.  The ground then goes through C134.  This is a huge connector that connects the dash wiring harness to the harness going to the rest of the truck.  (I can send a picture of that if you need.  But you can find it in the manual by looking in the connector location chart.  That is probably not the problem but we can come back to it if needed) The wire then goes to the PDC and is part of a splice called S183.   I don't know what this looks like, but I am betting it is three BRown/Yellow wires twisted together.  (Joint connectors seem to have terminals, Splices seem to have just bare wires twisted together....)

 

I would try disconnecting headlight switch connector C2.  I would put a jumper in the connector and see if your fog lights work normally.  This would prove if it is just a switch problem.  If they still work poorly, I would then take the PDC apart and look for the spice S183 to see if the wires have separated.

 

GL   HTH

 

Hag

2001 FSM Ram 8w-50-10.pdf

Edited January 29, 2019 by Haggar

[Marcus2000monster]

12 minutes ago, Haggar said:

Marcus,  we gotta get you reading wiring diagrams..... (open up the one I attached I will walk you through it)

 

The PDC ground is G100, G101 and G102.  Those are located under the battery on the driver's side. The ground wire goes from the fender to the PDC and is split to the different circuits by Joint Connector #1.   BUT THIS is NOT what you want. (if you are still looking for your fog lights wonkiness...)

 

Ground  G201 is the main ground for the headlight SYSTEM.  If your other lights work ok, it is not that ground that is the problem.  The ground passes through your headlamp switch in its OWN connector called C2.  The ground then goes through C134.  This is a huge connector that connects the dash wiring harness to the harness going to the rest of the truck.  (I can send a picture of that if you need.  But you can find it in the manual by looking in the connector location chart.  That is probably not the problem but we can come back to it if needed) The wire then goes to the PDC and is part of a splice called S183.   I don't know what this looks like, but I am betting it is three BRown/Yellow wires twisted together.  (Joint connectors seem to have terminals, Splices seem to have just bare wires twisted together....)

 

I would try disconnecting headlight switch connector C2.  I would put a jumper in the connector and see if your fog lights work normally.  This would prove if it is just a switch problem.  If they still work poorly, I would then take the PDC apart and look for the spice S183 to see if the wires have separated.

 

GL   HTH

 

Hag

2001 FSM Ram 8w-50-10.pdf

Thanks man! im at work right now so cant go through it right now. Also i think i have the switch ruled out as i tried a new one already. Fogs are currently working. Its starting out like it did last time they would blink at random not very often and it got progressively worse until they stopped working. 

[Haggar]

Grrrr,  that kinda takes out a switch problem....

 

Ok Since S183 also controls the relay and the FOG LAMP INDICATOR.... Does the indicator flicker also or does it stay on solid like they are working, but the fogs themselves go out?  (this isn't a perfect indicator as it could be an LED...  but it is shown as an incandescent so it should dim with voltage fluctuations) 

 

If it flickers... look for a problem in S183.  

 

If it stays on solid the problem is between the PDC and the lights themselves.....so we follow the  Black yellow wire (that went into the Relay on terminal 87 and comes out of the relay on terminal 30 it is now LB (which I assume is Light Blue)   This light blue wire will go to a splice S110 (but this is NOT our problem if the indicator light stays bright.)  To connector C105 .  The book says C105 is at the rear of the front bumper. no picture.  (it should be close to the mounting bolts.  This is a connector so the bumper assembly could be installed easily. )C105 is just a 2 wire connector with a light blue  and Red orange wires in it.

 

The red orange wire is your constant hot from the fuse G.

The light blue is your ground we are following.  It goes to S134.  According to the manual it is a T/O the right fog lamp.  I think this means that it is a tap off the right fog lamp.  so at the right fog lamp you will have 2 light blue wires one of which goes to the connector C105 and the other goes to the left fog lamp.  (if both of the fogs go wonkee  its probably not here it looks like C105 is the issue.  BUT it could be the doubled light blues in the right connector also not making good contact to each other.)

 

Hope that helps

 

Hag

[Marcus2000monster]

22 hours ago, Haggar said:

Grrrr,  that kinda takes out a switch problem....

 

Ok Since S183 also controls the relay and the FOG LAMP INDICATOR.... Does the indicator flicker also or does it stay on solid like they are working, but the fogs themselves go out?  (this isn't a perfect indicator as it could be an LED...  but it is shown as an incandescent so it should dim with voltage fluctuations) 

 

If it flickers... look for a problem in S183.  

 

If it stays on solid the problem is between the PDC and the lights themselves.....so we follow the  Black yellow wire (that went into the Relay on terminal 87 and comes out of the relay on terminal 30 it is now LB (which I assume is Light Blue)   This light blue wire will go to a splice S110 (but this is NOT our problem if the indicator light stays bright.)  To connector C105 .  The book says C105 is at the rear of the front bumper. no picture.  (it should be close to the mounting bolts.  This is a connector so the bumper assembly could be installed easily. )C105 is just a 2 wire connector with a light blue  and Red orange wires in it.

 

The red orange wire is your constant hot from the fuse G.

The light blue is your ground we are following.  It goes to S134.  According to the manual it is a T/O the right fog lamp.  I think this means that it is a tap off the right fog lamp.  so at the right fog lamp you will have 2 light blue wires one of which goes to the connector C105 and the other goes to the left fog lamp.  (if both of the fogs go wonkee  its probably not here it looks like C105 is the issue.  BUT it could be the doubled light blues in the right connector also not making good contact to each other.)

 

Hope that helps

 

Hag

Sorry Hag just saw this post. The indicator stays on just fine. 

[Haggar]

No worries  it is cold as the dickens here, and we are the sunny south! 

 

I put a description of where your trouble may be if that light stays on bright.  Take a peek at it when you get a chance.  Hope we can solve it.

 

l8r

 

Hag

[Marcus2000monster]

45 minutes ago, Haggar said:

No worries  it is cold as the dickens here, and we are the sunny south! 

 

I put a description of where your trouble may be if that light stays on bright.  Take a peek at it when you get a chance.  Hope we can solve it.

 

l8r

 

Hag

Will do thanks man appreciate it!

[Mad Bomber]

I had problems with  FASS lift pump too. I cut the screens out, then still getting air. My float totally came off the stick. I bought a new pick and the pickup was longer and lower in tank. It was from 

Vulcan Performance.com.

It was one that was made for a differant car and was modified by the seller.