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Tie rod ends

Alexio Auditore
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Evan

Evan

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Posted (edited)

I did alot research on Luke's links. They might be a upgrade built on the stock tie rod ends but I didnt like a tie rod end on the frame side of the track bar.

After lots of debating in my head I took the plunge and torched the tie end off the frame side of the track bar and started over.

 

Truck handles amazing after getting the track bar done. I did miss the mark and had to lower frame end to get rid of bump steer I also have slight contact on the diff cover.  Been meaning to heat that up and mend it in alittle or possibly bump track mount on frame forward a 1/4".

 

I'm not 100percent sure if I'll fab a steering or just do the 2008.5 steering  I will save 100 bucks or so to fab it but I'm short on time and the factory steering will clear better.

I may have to adjust track angle again because the mount on the tie rod to drag link will lower slightly though it may be okay

 

I may go this route

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

Offset joints would fix that but require more fabrication on my end.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFFK.html

but the straight tierod makes packaging it tighter. Bent tie rod makes toe adjustments harder.

The mopar steering kit is easily adjustable for toe.

 

I'm not sure on longevity yet on the 7/8 heim joints. Probly have 20k plus on them. They're still tight like new.

 

The bolt on DOR or Carlyle track bar kits are nice but lower the frame end mount to much for a truck at factory ride height. I could be wrong I see the price of them and dont look into them to terribly much

 

Lots of ways to go on these trucks and like mike says they all drive down the road. I'm still running the god awful sloppy factory steering. It still goes down the road. I did replace the joint on pitman arm because it was so sloppy it was scaring me. 

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Edited by Evan
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Alexio Auditore

Alexio Auditore

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Wheb you shortened the drag link, you just cut an inch off or did you have to do any welding? Any other fab work?

 

@dripley did you do just the track bar? I have one also on the dodge, seems to have worked ok, but its bigger than my stock one and shifted the truck a bit. Had to adjust the steering wheel actually.

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Stormin08

Stormin08

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BIG NOTE HERE....

 

certain parts are easier to replace if need by the parts house...i remember calling a couple to see what was more readily available...then i cut the other side. that way if i ever needed to replace the part on the road, it would fit.

 

some have had to trim the crossover (pre-00) and others the drag link ( stock height usually), some have had to do nothing.

Edited by Stormin08
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Evan

Evan

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Theres reports of track bar lengths varying from bar to bar to manufacture depending on who made it etc. Even varying in the same manufacturer 

 

Our 07 work truck eats all track bars moog mopar autozone. Itl eat them in a month.

 

My heim bars now been on now for a few months I'm watching it close.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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My OEM tie rod ends lasted till 350k miles. Replaced with greasable NAPA and so far still doing great. Steering is still tight and still straight. Almost to 390k miles. Still running 1,000 miles a week. I know there is no reason to chase the upgrade ends (T vs Y steering) nor attempt to chase down the OEM original that lasted 350k miles being its no longer manufactured and I've got no lift or leveling kits so the geometry of my front axles is still correct. I'm running 30 inch tires (254/75 R16) and it reduces the stress on the joints just a bit. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Alexio Auditore

Alexio Auditore

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5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My OEM tie rod ends lasted till 350k miles. Replaced with greasable NAPA and so far still doing great. Steering is still tight and still straight. Almost to 390k miles. Still running 1,000 miles a week. I know there is no reason to chase the upgrade ends (T vs Y steering) nor attempt to chase down the OEM original that lasted 350k miles being its no longer manufactured and I've got no lift or leveling kits so the geometry of my front axles is still correct. I'm running 30 inch tires (254/75 R16) and it reduces the stress on the joints just a bit. 

Ya, I know what you mean, but my front end was rebuilt just before i bought the truck with 180k miles, with greasable tierod ends, no over sized tires ( actually had 235s on it for a while) I grease it, I dont have a lift, its mainly highway miles, and I'm now at 256k miles, with bad tie rod ends and other problems( suchbis life)

No garuntee the moog will do much better, and I may not go that route. I'm just tired of cheap crap, NAPA is just like any other auto parts store, they care less about quality parts, they just want my money. I may get OEM tie rods still, havent yet decided. No matter what route I go, I'll be getting taken advantage of one way or another, be it expensive parts, or lifetime warranty cheap parts. USA made or not, no garuntee it will be better than what else is out there. But what can you do but try it one way and hope for the best.

 

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dripley

dripley

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22 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

 

 

@dripley did you do just the track bar? I have one also on the dodge, seems to have worked ok, but its bigger than my stock one and shifted the truck a bit. Had to adjust the steering wheel actually.

This my 3rd track bar. The OE and 2 Moogs with the larger stud on it. The latest one has about 120k and holding up still. I did have to adjust steering wheel a bit on this last one. Truck seems centered over the cab just fine. The first Moog replacement went on with a full replacement of all the steering joints and all had adjusted. When this goes I will most likely get another Moog.

 Rebuilt the whole front end with Moog 8 or 9 years ago and it is still going strong for now.

 

This was just prior to federal mogul buying them out.

Edited by dripley
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Stormin08

Stormin08

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i understand someones desire to save cost, using lifetime warranty parts...and i agree on certain parts, but take the balljoints for example. i dont have the time to swap out bad joints for warranty...i have run the synergy balljoints for 100k miles and no issues...this is a lifted front end, with a 34" tire. i am certain overall height may add some wear, but the wheel backspacing is what kills the BJ and steering.

 

i think the scrub line of a tall tire, narrow or tucked wheel helps keep things happy.

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Alexio Auditore

Alexio Auditore

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So I thought I'd give an update.

I went with moog for tierod and drag link. 

Finally getting around to installing,  just difficult when i work and have to go to parents to work on it because of living in an apartment, so I spend a couple hours working on it here and there. I decided to check the ball joints since front end is in the air, and to my wonderful surprise, they have play (lateral) on driver upper and much worse on passenger, both upper and lower. I definitely see some of the wear on the passenger tire especially. When it rains, it pours I guess.

 

What ball joints do you guys recommend?

Spicer? Synergy? Raybestos? I don't want to be replacing these often. I've heard some aftermarket ones are bigger than stock, and require reaming them out, which I dont want to do. 

 

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Evan

Evan

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Have about a year on napa ball joints. Driver side lower is getting loose. Not sure how many miles on them 30k maybe.

They are warranted but not something I'm just gona whip in the shop and change.  In a few minutes.

 

Carli ball joints might be a better option but cost alot more though saving labor/time expense.

I do all my wrenching and right now I cant afford to stop working and change ball joints. That means a machine or truck isnt worked or I'm falling behind on maintaining and repairs in other areas. 

 

 

 

My 7/8" heim track bar is holding up so far. When they do wear out its minutes to toss new joints in.

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