Assassin or Fuel Boss?

[Stormin08]

belt life is all in the install, it is a cogged belt and only needs to be snug enough to not pry off.

 

it will appear loose compared to a normal drive belt. you should be able to squeeze and touch the side together.

[gipperkid]

Probably a dumb question. But could the fuel boss could be used in conjunction with a FASS? Once running the Hobbs switch would just cut the power to the FASS.

[Bullet]

Just now, gipperkid said:

Probably a dumb question. But could the fuel boss could be used in conjunction with a FASS? Once running the Hobbs switch would just cut the power to the FASS.

Yes it can.  That's not the most cost-effective route but it can just as easily be done.  Yes the Hobbs switch would cut power to the FASS as soon as it senses pressure from the Fuel Boss...which would be 1-2 seconds after cranking approximately. 

[gipperkid]

Just now, Bullet said:

Yes it can.  That's not the most cost-effective route but it can just as easily be done.  Yes the Hobbs switch would cut power to the FASS as soon as it senses pressure from the Fuel Boss...which would be 1-2 seconds after cranking approximately. 

Yes, as far as cost definitely expensive. I already have a FASS, but I was just looking at reliability. Any electric motor/pump will fail eventually. I wish I would have bought the Fuel Boss instead.

[Bullet]

15 minutes ago, gipperkid said:

Yes, as far as cost definitely expensive. I already have a FASS, but I was just looking at reliability. Any electric motor/pump will fail eventually. I wish I would have bought the Fuel Boss instead.

You might could cut some of the loss and sell your FASS stuff and just run straight Fuel Boss...that's how I have mine ran.  Running an electric pump in correlation with the Fuel Boss is $50 more expensive since you need the Hobbs switch.  I didn't need the Hobbs since I'm straight mechanical and Richard cut my price by $50 because of that...fyi.

[IBMobile]

27 minutes ago, gipperkid said:

Once running the Hobbs switch would just cut the power to the FASS.

 

I found the Hobbs switch to be a PIA to set when the fuel pressures between the two pump is close. The  power to the electric pump has been turned off by removing the fuse and is only used to bleed the system after a fuel component has been changed.  The engine starts fine with only the Fuel Boss.

[Bullet]

Straight mechanical is also the only way I would recommend running it.  I considered leaving my electric pump in for 'reliability' reasons but considering the complexity of the 2 separate pumps and the Hobbs switch and the extra hoses and electrical connections...the most reliable route to me became straight mechanical.  Priming is only slightly more labor intensive but not difficult by any means. 

[Octafish]

On 11/29/2019 at 3:06 PM, Bullet said:

Straight mechanical is also the only way I would recommend running it.  I considered leaving my electric pump in for 'reliability' reasons but considering the complexity of the 2 separate pumps and the Hobbs switch and the extra hoses and electrical connections...the most reliable route to me became straight mechanical.  Priming is only slightly more labor intensive but not difficult by any means. 

My plan is to go straight mechanical as well.

Are you guys using the stock fuel filter only and/or aftermarket?

[01cummins4ever]

29 minutes ago, Octafish said:

My plan is to go straight mechanical as well.

Are you guys using the stock fuel filter only and/or aftermarket?

I have mine straight mechanical, with a 24 micron pre pump strainer also available from GDP. I still run the factory fuel canister for winter time fuel heating purpose, Fleetgaurd fs19855. 

 

Check with Glacier Diesel Power, Richard has dual fuel filter set ups too,

[Bullet]

56 minutes ago, Octafish said:

My plan is to go straight mechanical as well.

Are you guys using the stock fuel filter only and/or aftermarket?

My setup is straight mechanical, stock fuel filter and a strainer between the tank and the Fuel Boss. 

Edited December 3, 2019 by Bullet

[Gregturley]

Mechanical only with fuel strainer and factory filter housing.

[IBMobile]

Mechanical with electric pump disabled, fuel strainer, and factory filter. 

[Octafish]

 

Factory filter w/strainer is the direction I'm heading.

Fuel Boss is on order.

 

Thanks for the direction guys.

 

I really appreciate the way people help each other on this forum.

Everyone is civil. I see less and less of that everywhere else.

Of all the forums I visit, none stand out like this one.

Michael has done an outstanding job.

The advice I've gleaned thru the years has been priceless.

[Gregturley]

@Octafish you can't go wrong with that set up. Use a Baldwin PF7977 filter in the stock housing. 

[Octafish]

2 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@Octafish you can't go wrong with that set up. Use a Baldwin PF7977 filter in the stock housing. 

I'm sure it's been discussed at length, 

but is the Baldwin preferred over the Fleet Guard?

[Gregturley]

Baldwin & Fleetguard are both good filters. I found the Baldwin had better reviews when i was looking. I'm sure others may say Fleetguard is better. Probably can't go wrong with either one. The PF7977 is a 5 micron filter where stock for my 01 was a 10 micron. Listed use is 03-09 5.9 but it fits/works fine in the 98.5-02 24 valve. Stay away from Fram/NAPA/Autozone etc.

here's your strainer pn. 

[IBMobile]

Check out Amazon for the in line strainer.  They are a couple of dollars more but with Prime it's free shipping.  The Baldwin pf7977 filter can be had there for $15 each and free shipping with Prime.  

[Octafish]

Fuel Boss should be here tomorrow.

Perfect timing!

 

Twice now my Fass DDRP would not turn on until I got under the truck and smacked it with my hand first.

I guess it's sticking somehow.

1 yr left on a 4 yr warranty.

[Bullet]

Just now, Octafish said:

Fuel Boss should be here tomorrow.

Perfect timing!

 

Twice now my Fass DDRP would not turn on until I got under the truck and smacked it with my hand first.

I guess it's sticking somehow.

1 yr left on a 4 yr warranty.

Awesome...there are a lot of us on here who have firsthand install experience so don't hesitate to post if you get stuck or have a question.  Richard is very helpful too.  Best up front advice is to blow out each hose with compressed air after it has been cut to fit.  Also if you are having problems getting the hose to fully seat on the quick connect barbs soak the end of the hose in hot water for a bit and it will be much easier to push on. 

 

Yep it sounds like your DDRP is on its last leg. 

[IBMobile]

You will have to remove the front oil pan bolts to install the pump's mounting bracket.  When you put the bolts back in be sure to torque them to 18 Ft. Lbs. to avoid any oil leak.