P1689, VP, ECM, TIPM, AND DASH...UGGGHHH

[Cjugg]

So I'm gonna be as thorough as I can, but sorry if I'm vauge..

Truck ran fine, had the Smarty on it, rolling coal...did some brakes and ball joints, let the truck down off the jack, cranked it and started white/blue smoking...dont really recall was kinda worried, shut it down, limped him home and parked.

Later got it cranked, parked for months, drove it about 45 miles, lost compression in 3rd, downshifted and caught boost, got it where I was going, parked it again...didnt have the money to fool around with it...

8 months later....got batteries charged, oil filter, fuel filter, and air filter

Was running and smoking...dash and all on, odometer reading 512000 miles..

Got it where it currently is, to work on it, did research, checked my oil...wth!? Milky..wasn't that way before I moved or anything..

Changed with some used oil and new filter..

Same thing, took filter housing off, found ripped water jacket...Indian head shellac, and then thought, why not revamp the oil, and timing cover? So I did, upon pulling head, found a seap in my headgasket, I did not go back and retorque after the studs went in...so entirely new job, kinda..

Copper coated headgasket, and ran permatex on block, re torqued. Upon putting all parts on, after I had some fun painting but still needs ALOT of work on that...I found my batteries to be dead, nothing on dash, no turn over, nada..

New batteries, truck turns over, only light I get is WTS, if you see my profile pic of dash, you see the Odometer reads '             0', which told me the ECM, or smarty erased, or faulted my computer, revert back to stock, still no dash lights, no crank. Cant read odometer, cant pull codes through there. Smarty read me a few, which have since gone away, but they were P1689, P1693, P1697 and one other I cant recall...did WT ground mod. And re routed charging wire to aux batt, with protection 150a breaker...

Got some dash, like blinker, but nothing on initial turn ket. Just TWS, and brake if I have set..

The VP communication to ECM, was one that worried me...but that code went away after WT mod, companion to jtech mod, and no bus, I tried a diff pcm, and got all same code..I have not clue what to do, beside a harness and an ECM. Also when swapping fuel relay, with key on, it shocked the crap outta my buddy and when I swapped it, it made multiple clicking noises....no matter what relay I used, please lmk if anyone has had this issues with Odom not lighting, and when my buddy used his handheld reader ot only pulls up 1689 code, twice..

Iv loaded the pic my dash, with "0" miles, but as you see the low fuel symbal? That's not on now, and fuel gauge has been broke since I bought the truck, as well as the pic reading proper temps, it will not read them now..and my odometer is completely blank..

[Dieselfuture]

56 minutes ago, Cjugg said:

Truck ran fine, had the Smarty on it, rolling coal...

We might help if you promise to cut down on that, I know it's fun and all but gives us all a bad name in the eye of general public. 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

1 hour ago, Cjugg said:

Truck ran fine, had the Smarty on it, rolling coal...

Typically guys that are rolling coal are considered poor tuners. Smoke is NOT a sign of good power. Smoke is a sign of improper timing and excessive fuel mapping for said amount of boost. 

 

A majority of the dash functions are communicated over the CCD Network. 

 

You need to hold the trip pin down, then turn the key on. When the odometer says CHEC then release the pin and watch. Afterwords it will show error code in the 3 digit 900 range. This will test the cluster for communication and internal functions.

 

[dripley]

From your description in the other post on the ground mod thread I gathered that you have the truck apart enough where cant start the truck at the moment, ie steering column apart, wiring harnesses open. Just want to be sure I understood that right. If not please correct me.

[Cjugg]

No I have the wires all together, except the column which is just exposed cause I was checking for crimped/ broke wires,  I only had the fuel up for the coal.  I have since turned it back stock. As far as the trip pin, that part won't light up AT ALL... which has me thrown off..

I do not have the dash lights you see in the photo

The relay will do countless clicks,  not one or two, but that's with any relay I put in there.. 

[dripley]

That is odd with relay unless the switch is turned to the start position. The ECM will cycle that relay on and off quickly to lower fuel  pressre while starting.

Edited February 7, 2020 by dripley

[Dieselfuture]

 

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

cranked it and started white/blue smoking

Could be vp related, multiple reports before they go they can smoke like that. Did you happen to smell it?

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

odometer reading 512000 miles..

Is this your actual mileage or some random number that got displayed 

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

Milky..wasn't that way before I moved or anything..

Any chance your coolant wasn't up to task and it froze

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

took filter housing off, found ripped water jacket..

See above

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

Copper coated headgasket, and ran permatex on block

Not sure that's a good idea, time will tell. 

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

only light I get is WTS

Thats a good sign 

 

6 hours ago, Cjugg said:

which told me the ECM, or smarty erased, or faulted my computer

Not sure that's possible, if it is that's news to me.

It sounds like you have multiple issues, possibly ecm/cluster took damage from bad wiring/grounds before you did wt mod. Keep tracing wires make sure all clean, check connector on back side of cluster, sometimes it loses connection. 

Is your oil still mixing with water or did it stop after hg replacement, or after hg replacement you still can't fire it up. You can do a hot wire on vp and see if it starts, that will narrow it down some.

[Cjugg]

Head gasket seems good, and after the te gasket on oil filter housing, aka engine oil cooler as well, if had the truck turn over and start once, but I had no pedal then it hasnt cranked and batteries got weaker..no milky oil yet but it hasnt been to op. temp either...

Diagram for hit wire tap on VP?

Ps. 512000 is ACTUAL mileage, but now that display wont light up, the '0' in the above pics is last time it did anything...which madd me think comp was rest or something somehow...

Edited February 7, 2020 by Cjugg

[Dieselfuture]

https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

[Cjugg]

13 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Typically guys that are rolling coal are considered poor tuner

I only turned it up to mess around with tuner, if I set it to a lower level of fuel and duration it doesnt smoke, just timing adjustments, and get up and goes, so the tuner works good, but I was 18 when I bought the truck, so coal was cool...

So no more coal, gotcha.

8 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

14 hours ago, Cjugg said:

Copper coated headgasket, and ran permatex on block

Not sure that's a good idea, time will tell. 

I also had a stud, sticking up a half inch, inside the rocker valley, that's where the milky mess started from once I pulled head and seen, cleared out thread, and re torqued all ok until I get truck operating temp..

[dripley]

What happens at operating temp?

[Cjugg]

Well it'd won't run continuously...having batteries charged today, and swapping starter...

I tested the VP plug based off the blue chip site...

I have 5 ohm on the blue wire with red stripe on it, it says if you have any voltage, when key  cycles to run or start to snip it..

This stupid 'Autometer' is only reading the ohms...same? At the VP power I was getting 3.9 volts 

I'll be ideally of early today,  so I'll have daylight to do this work..

Stay frosty, I'll be on here till she runs again hopefully. 

 

[Cjugg]

 

12 hours ago, dripley said:

What happens at operating temp?

I mean I havent gotten it there to let thermostat open, ect. As to let everything open, and work...so I ar this point I do not have milky oil. But I still havent figured out this wiring...if that's my deal or not..

On 2/7/2020 at 7:03 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

You need to hold the trip pin down, then turn the key on. When the odometer says CHEC then release the pin and watch. Afterwords it will show error code in the 3 digit 900 range. This will test the cluster for communication and internal functions

I can't see anything where the odometer is supposed to be...smarty tells me codes the handheld doesn't. Grid heater circuit, glow plug circuit, com between jtech mod, communications between ecm and IP, no bus

On 2/7/2020 at 12:02 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Not sure that's possible, if it is that's news to me.

I read somewhere it could happen, or did happen, but I think is was a different smarty..not the touch. I dont recall..

 

But why would my mileage reset from 512xxx to 0 and not record mileage after that? This is why I fear the ecm may be bad 

 

Edited February 9, 2020 by Cjugg

[Cjugg]

Ps.

 

Upon swapping relays, and taking a break, I swapped fuel for horn and then my horn started blaring nonstop...just another clue I thought I should mention..

[Royal Squire]

I believe the mileage is in the cluster not the ecm

[Great work!]

ECM on engine provides rpm oil temp to CCD bus. PCM on fire wall provides speed mileage and fuel level to cluster. The PCM send trip/mileage increment messages to cluster. The actual sync of the odometer to PCM is some closely guarded secret. The CCD busses come together at the PDC fuse block. Inspect the wire harness over the engine since you were working in that area with the head. May have damaged some wires. Could be corroded connection at the PDC from sitting so long. Try cleaning the CCD bus bridge connector and wiggle the terminals and wiring while somebody watches the cluster.

[Cjugg]

Ok so upon pulling the cluster, checking the circuit for breaks and what not this caught my eye..I believe I traced this circuit down to the LCD connection on back

 

Also the bars connecting the LCD screen that's soldered in. Two were touching...inside the screen there's a blotch, kinds like a bulb exploded or whatever..new cluster coming soon..

Tried the VP44 hotwire, I have good fuel flow in my line before the VP, idk if it need the back pressure of the injectors being connected or not, but I removed them and there's NOTHING coming out of VP..

Like. A. Drop. Maybe..

I touched the hotwire, with split spade connector, likenthe Blue Chip article said...and all I hear is a 'click'..no whirring, no buzzing, no spitting fuel...any ideas? I want to take the tubes and injectors out and throughly clean them....I really want to replace the nozzles and the tubes altogether...but not trying to waste money when it did run before..

Looking to pull the VP computer and check for the bad solder... half a million miles on this Beast.. please help me get it back on the road

[dripley]

Did you try to start the truck while it was hot wired? The VP needs to be turning to pump fuel. 

 

sorry I cant with the cluster.

[Cjugg]

But  if injectors agree disconnected and it is hotwired will it spit fuel out of the nozzles on pump? Is there supposed to be something turning/clicking/buzzing? I just get one single click when I touch the hot wire and try and start truck..

[dripley]

4 hours ago, Cjugg said:

But  if injectors agree disconnected and it is hotwired will it spit fuel out of the nozzles on pump? Is there supposed to be something turning/clicking/buzzing? I just get one single click when I touch the hot wire and try and start truck..

It is an electronically controlled mechanical pump, gear driven. It turns when the engine turns. Big gear on top. You do the hot wire test to see if the engine will run and all the fuel lines need to be connected to the pump and injectors. Fuel to the injectors needs to verified also. So just powering the VP will not move any fuel, it has to turn.